We wanted to discover the real Alaska. And we’ve definitely found it on the incredible Kenai Peninsula. It remains a highlight of our Pan-American road trip! We loved it so much that we returned two years later, on our way back from Ushuaia to Montreal (what do you mean, that’s a huge detour?). The Kenai Peninsula is Alaska in all its glory: impressive glaciers, fjords home to whales and orcas, Pacific salmon in full migration, charming fishing villages, and abundant, unpredictable wildlife. We begin our exploration of this southern Alaskan peninsula in the small fishing port of Whittier, with its impressive salmon-filled river and the breathtaking Portage Glacier. Join us as we explore the heart of Alaska!
Tuesday, July 26, 2022
Freshly arrived from Anchorage the day before, our first day on the Kenai Peninsula started with a gust of wind that rocks the Jeep. A gust? But there’s no wind! Strange. I peek through the window: nothing. Then the Jeep rocks again. We exchange a look. Could it be… a bear? Rémi looks out his side and finds himself face-to-face with a black bear! Total shock! The bear is standing on its hind legs, front paws resting on the Jeep, sniffing the window. Rémi has a direct view of its big, slobbery snout. “Holy shit!”
In a flash, Rémi triggers the car alarm. I have other priorities, I grab my phone to capture this moment. Despite the alarm and the chaos in the car, the bear doesn’t seem the least bit bothered. It continues sniffing around the top of the door. We can hear its claws scraping against the paint. Is this thing going to scratch our Jeep?! 😖 Eventually, when the alarm goes off again, the bear climbs down. It glances back one last time, giving us one last nonchalant look, before waddles off. Not exactly a frightened retreat.
It takes us a good ten minutes to dare step outside. What an adrenaline rush! We never really felt in danger, but it was seriously impressive. And pretty funny, too! We’ll remember this rude awakening thanks to the slobber on our windshield, the claw marks on the door, and a poorly filmed video showing a bear standing in front of our car. A memory we won’t forget.
From the viewpoint, we get a stunning view of the fjord and the glacier above it. Word of our little bear encounter has already spread among other travelers who camped nearby, a couple of Americans rush over to hear the full story.
Before heading to Whittier, we stop at the salmon river. There they are, dozens of them swimming upstream! All huge. Dan, a fly fisherman, is hard at work, though he says it’s “just for sport.” Each time he catches one, he releases it back.
The village of Whittier is particularly charming, with its little harbor nestled between mountains, its fishing boats, and the bustling activities of local fishermen. A true Alaskan fishing village!
🥾 Portage Pass Trail – 6.8 km, 437 m elevation gain
Next, we head to Portage Glacier. We haven’t done a proper hike in weeks, not since the Canadian Rockies, so we are thrilled to put on our boots and head out. The trail takes us up a hill overlooking the glacier, and then down to the lake below, offering a breathtaking view of every detail of Portage Glacier. Simply stunning! The lake water is, of course, icy. We dip in a finger, that’s enough! Small icebergs float on the surface, signs of the glacier’s ongoing melt.
We rush downhill, hoping to catch the next tunnel slot to leave Whittier. But of course, we’re late again — the next one is in an hour. Just like earlier, we cook a meal in the parking lot. Maybe someone will offer us a salmon again 😀 Then we head toward Seward, another fishing village at the end of another fjord on the Kenai Peninsula. The road there is gorgeous… but when is it ever not?
Riverbeds are always perfects spots to spend the night. A wide open space, stunning mountain views, the sound of the river, the sunshine — everything’s perfect. With our 4×4, we can get away from the “crowds” and find a peaceful spot behind some trees. A beautiful evening awaits! We go all out: tent, campfire, and the salmon we were gifted two days ago by some generous fishermen! Gently cooked in foil with mashed potatoes, it makes a delicious combo. We savor it by the fire, right in the riverbed, alone with the Alaskan mountains. What more could we ask for? Thank you again to Tim and his fishing buddies for this incredible gift 😃 A joyful evening as a couple in the heart of the Alaskan wilderness ❤️
Wednesday, July 27
After a relaxed morning and breakfast in the sun with a mountain view, we set off for the charming fishing village of Seward.
Seward is a picturesque Alaskan fishing village. The harbor is lovely, filled with trawlers, sailboats, and fishing vessels. Also it really smells like fish! Signs warn not to feed the sea lions lounging on the beach under the piers, but today, none are in sight.
There are plenty of tourist activities offered in the port’s wooden cabins: we’d love to go kayaking in the fjord, fly over a glacier, or take a day cruise to see glaciers, whales, orcas, and seals — or even hike on a glacier. But everything’s way too expensive… Oh well, today we’ll explore the landscape in our favorite budget-friendly way: on foot! Off we go for a fjord-side hike.
🥾 Tonsina Creek Trail – 5.5 km
The fjord-side hike quickly turns into a forest hike, we walk for several kilometers through thick, wild vegetation before finally reaching the bay viewpoint. On the plus side, we find our snack: some tart wild raspberries. Before reaching the bay, we cross a bridge under which dozens of salmon are teeming.
The tide is low, so we can walk along the driftwood-strewn beach. The view over the fjord and the surrounding mountains is breathtaking.
Back in Seward, we witness the return of the fishing boats! Accompanied by their guide, tourists come back from their day on the water like proud conquerors. Everyone hauls in some impressive catches, which they proudly show off. There are all kinds of salmon, of course, but also halibut and massive rockfish that are over 100 years old! As we sip our milkshake, we watch the fish being cleaned and filleted. The remains are tossed straight into the sea, a feast for the sea lions and gulls.
That evening, we return to the riverbed. We immediately hit it off with our neighbors for the night: Kuan and Victor, who live in Salt Lake City, Utah! We’ve been reading their travel blog for weeks, so it’s pretty wild to run into them here! We enjoy an apéro together by the water, and of course, we talk about travel and rigs! They even give us a tour of their campervan, roomy, cozy, and warm. We could totally see ourselves in one like that 😅 Hope to see you again in Utah, friends!
Just as we’re sitting down for dinner in the Jeep, a truck pulls up, it’s Marie and Brian! How they found us in the middle of the woods is a mystery, but we’re so happy to see them. We end up having an impromptu riverside campfire evening that lasts past midnight. What a great time 😊
Tomorrow, we are off on one of the most neautiful hikes of our trip: an epic trek to the impressive Exit Glacier and the Alaska’s vast icefield. After that, we’ll continue exploring the Kenai Peninsula, visiting the fishing port of Homer and the Russian River, where we hope to spot bears catching salmon!
