The Kenai Peninsula is a condensed version of everything Alaska has to offer: towering glaciers, picturesque fishing ports, and both humans and bears enjoying the Pacific salmon run. After discovering the typically Alaskan fishing ports of Whittier and Seward, we set out on one of the most stunning hikes we’ve ever done: the incredible hike to Exit Glacier and the Harding Icefield.
Thursday, July 28, 2022
Exit Glacier is one of the most impressive glaciers near Seward, and also one of the most accessible. For a breathtaking view of the icefield, its crevasses, and sheer immensity, there’s nothing like gaining some elevation. So we set off for a full-day hike in Kenai Fjords National Park, hoping to be amazed. We say goodbye to Marie-Thérèse and Brian, or rather, see you soon! Lately, we keep running into each other! 😅
🥾 Harding Icefield Trail – 16 km (10 miles), 1087 m elevation gain
What can we say about the hike to Exit Glacier except: wow. From start to finish, it was stunning, and it’s already ranked among our list of our most beautiful hikes to date. The first kilometers lead through a dense, wild forest that reminds us of the Sumatran jungle (yes, really), except here, there are raspberries along the trail instead of orangutans in the trees. As we climb higher, the forest gives way to wind-swept flowering meadows where marmots live. Finally, the last ecosystem of the hike is a rocky, desert-like expanse: the glacier’s moraine. Years ago, the ice reached all the way here. Today, it’s just rocks and dust where nothing grows.
From the first viewpoint, we overlook the ice tongue of Exit Glacier. The brilliant white contrasts beautifully with the green meadows and the colorful wildflowers. You just want to run through it like Heidi 😂
The climb continues along the mountain, higher and higher. The trail winds along the hillside and gives us magnificent views of the valley and the glacier. Soon, we reach the final section of the Exit Glacier hike: the moraine. The landscape shifts again, from green and white to white and gray.
After three hours of hiking, we reach the end of the trail. We are standing at the top of a wind-swept hill that overlooks the Harding Icefield. We are blown away by the view. From the valley, the glacier looks small (it’s easy to imagine how much it must have shrunk in recent years), but from up here, we discover a whole other world. What we thought was a small glacier is actually part of an icefield stretching for miles and miles, as far as the eye can see. It’s simply incredible. This is one of only two icefields we’ll get to see on our Pan-American road trip, the other being the three-day trek to the Southern Patagonian Icefield, one of the largest in the world.
When we overlook it, we can see its deep blue crevasses. It’s stunning. We find a spot sheltered from the wind and enjoy our picnic with a view, grateful for the chance to be here.
After such a hike, all we want is a shower! No, actually, two things: a shower and ice cream! We get both. The shower, hidden away by the river; the ice cream, at the port in Seward. Then, we do some grocery shopping, refuel the car and water tanks, and hit the road! It’s 5 PM, but the day is far from over.
Next stop: Russian River, known for its salmon and its bears. It’s a popular spot for both fishermen and travelers. The Russian Falls in particular are a well-known bear-watching location. When we arrive at the parking lot, who do we run into? Marie and Brian again! They’ve just returned from the falls, thrilled: they saw a mama bear and her three cubs. Wow! We want to see too!
It’s 9 PM, but we head straight to the falls… and down the wrong trail. We end up wading through the icy river, hopping from rock to rock… After two kilometers, we have to admit it: this is not the right trail, and night is catching up with us. Night! We had almost forgotten what that was 😁 We turn back. We’ll go to the falls tomorrow morning. After a face-to-face with a moose while going to the bathroom in the woods, we go to bed.
Friday, July 29
The next morning, we are determined to see bears fishing. We’re up at 6:45 AM and hit the trail (the right one this time!). Bears, bears! After 3 km, we reach the viewpoint overlooking Russian Falls. And indeed, the place is packed with salmon. Thousands of them! They leap from cascade to cascade, trying to reach the spot where they were born. What an instinct! Some make it, others crash into rocks and fall back into the lower pools. Poor things! We have a blast watching and photographing them… which is good, because we spend four hours waiting for bears to show up. In vain. Loads of salmon, no bears.
Exhausted after these intense days, we decide to find a peaceful spot to spend a quiet afternoon. We drive two hours across the Kenai Peninsula and find the perfect place. We are at the top of a cliff with a breathtaking view over the fjord, the mountains, and the volcanoes across the bay. Absolutely perfect.
In the evening, a drama occurs: we realize that our beautiful Denali National Park sticker has been stolen! 😤 Seriously?
Sunday, July 31
The day before was rainy. We spent it working at the Soldotna library, a small town on the Kenai Peninsula. Then, we enjoyed a beautiful evening by the water, watching a sunset that seemed never-ending. For hours, the sun slid along the horizon before finally disappearing late into the night.
After a sunny breakfast overlooking the bay, we head to the fishing port of Homer. But before getting there, we stop at a significant point: the westernmost point in mainland North America accessible by road. Funny, considering Alaska continues even farther west, though only reachable by boat or plane.
The peninsula road ends in a dead-end at Homer, a very touristy fishing port. To go beyond, you have to book a tour or charter a plane, boat, or helicopter. It’s all way too expensive for us, so we just stroll around the harbor, explore the village, walk along the beach, and enjoy some delicious halibut fish & chips at a local restaurant. Indeed, it’s impossible to leave Homer, the halibut capital, without trying some! It’s delicious.
After lunch, we watch the fishing boats return. And let’s just say the catch was good: cod, rockfish, Pacific salmon, and halibut galore. The fishermen (actually tourists who paid for a two-day fishing charter) proudly show off their biggest catch. One boat hauled in a 100-pound (45 kg) halibut! It’s huge. Everyone applauds. Then another comes in with a 110-pounder (50 kg). New record! That’s going to make a lot of fish & chips 😅
It’s still early in the afternoon when we leave Homer. We decide to drive 2 hours and 40 minutes back to try our luck again at the Russian Falls. We’re not giving up: we want to see bears fishing! We are more motivated than ever as we quickly walk the three kilometers to the viewpoint over the river. Late afternoon is the perfect time. Like two days ago, the salmon are here by hundreds. But as for the bears…
We wait more than an hour when suddenly! A black bear! Over there, in the bushes. It slowly makes its way down toward the river. It’s going to fish! The excitement is palpable. But then something catches its attention: a family has left the trail and gone down to the river. They are trying to catch salmon with their bare hands and haven’t seen the bear… They’re making noise, waving their arms. The bear gets scared and runs off into the forest. We are 😡. They had the whole river to fish and had to do it right here?! Ugh. Major disappointment. We wait until 10 PM, but no more luck. We return to the car, disheartened.
Monday, August 1
For our last stop on the Kenai Peninsula, we visit the small village of Hope. There’s not much to do except stroll along the bay and watch the fishermen catching salmon. The village is charming, with well-preserved houses and buildings from the early 1900s.
After a week on the Kenai Peninsula, it’s time for us to move on. We make a brief stop in Anchorage to reconnect with civilization, then hit the road for another fishing port (yes, another one!): Valdez, where we hope to finally take a cruise to see glaciers and marine wildlife.
