After three weeks in Alaska, we are back in the Yukon, Canada. During our Alaska road trip, we discovered exceptional landscapes, breathtaking fjords, impressive glaciers, vast and wild national parks, and abundant wildlife. But there’s one thing we dreamed of seeing and hadn’t yet: bears fishing for salmon! We heard about a place where this is possible, with a bit of luck and patience. So, we head to Haines, a small Alaskan village. But to reach Haines, we first need to cross back through Canada and the stunning Kluane National Park.
Tuesday, August 9, 2022
After visiting the old ghost mine of Kennecott, we cross the border into Canada. We are back on the mythical Alaska Highway, where we had so many adventures on the way there… but this time, in reverse! It’s always a pleasure to return to this magnificent road, whose landscapes never fail to leave us speechless. As always on the Alaska Highway, wildlife encounters are plentiful: bald eagles, black bears, swans.
As we cover the kilometers, the vast boreal forest dotted with lakes gives way to mountainous terrain: we are entering Kluane National Park, home to Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan. Let’s gain some altitude to better admire Kluane Park. We get up early to tackle one of the park’s most beautiful hikes!
🥾 King’s Throne – 9.6 km (5.6 miles), 1000 m elevation gain
After a two very flat kilometers along Lake Kathleen, the real challenge begins. We gain over 1000 meters in elevation (3300 ft.) in less than 3 kilometers (1.8 miles). In short: it’s VERY steep! The trail is very rugged, but we gain height quickly, and the view gradually unfolds before us.
Two kilometers from the summit, we are forced to stop: powerful winds are nearly knocking us over. It’s impossible to stand against the wind. With steep drop-offs on either side of the trail, it becomes truly dangerous. We find shelter under a rocky outcrop to enjoy our picnic, safe from the wind, with a spectacular view.
After a grueling descent in howling winds, we stop by the lake to cool off. The wind is still blowing hard and the water is ice-cold! You can probably tell from our faces 😅
Exhausted but so happy with the beautiful hike, we hit the road again. And what a road! It winds through changing landscapes: first vast grasslands that remind us of Denali National Park, then across a windy pass, past rushing rivers, and finally through an old coniferous forest. Driving through the Yukon is always a delight! The roadside is dotted with bear scat, which Rémi enjoys counting, but no actual bears in sight.
We arrive in Haines at 7 p.m., after a quick border crossing. Yep, Haines is in Alaska! We are here for one specific reason: to see bears fishing for salmon.
This small fishing village lies at the end of a fjord. To leave, you must either take a ferry to Skagway or drive back the way you came. There are lovely chalets with views by the bay and estuary, loads of bald eagles, and many fishing boats taking advantage of the salmon season. But they’re not the only ones! In Haines, with a bit of luck, you can spot bears fishing for salmon too!
We head straight to the Chilkoot River, a well-known salmon river in the area. And from the moment we arrive, we are not disappointed: a mama bear and her two cubs are in the middle of a fishing session! They are fishing directly from the metal structure used to monitor the salmon run. Park staff use it for fish counts, already over 50,000 salmon since July! At the moment, no one’s on duty, and the three bears have taken over. Quite a spectacle! With so many salmon, fishing seems easy for this mother bear, she just has to reach down and grab one. The real challenge is keeping some for herself, with two very hungry cubs at her side!
We find a roadside spot to camp for the night, not too far from the river. Our goal: come back early tomorrow morning to see the bears again!
Wednesday, August 10
We are barely awake before we are on the road to the Chilkoot River again. Driving along the water, on the lookout, and suddenly: what’s that grazing over there? Cows? Bison? Nope, bears!! We’re definitely in bear country! A mom and her three big cubs, grazing in the grass! What a surprise.
As they move off into the estuary, we realize they are heading toward the woods and will cross the road. Without hesitation, we take the car and go park by the roadside, where we think they will cross. Then, camera in hand, we wait. And wait. Then suddenly, there they are, crossing… behind us! Darn it, bad calculation 😀
There are no bears at the river this morning, so we decide to kill time by… mushroom picking! We venture into the woods behind the campground, looking for porcini mushrooms. Honestly, not the best idea right after seeing four grizzlies in the area. The harvest is good: two large porcini and a bolete. We double-check our finds with a knowledgeable German couple. Just in case. For lunch: sautéed wild mushrooms!
Back at the river, the same mama bear from yesterday has reappeared. Not shy, she has just been “gazed” by a park employee, who was counting salmon on the bridge. The employee, very used to this, reassures us: the bear will be back soon. And indeed, a few minutes later, there she is! No sign of her cubs. Now that the employee is gone, she resumes her fishing from the same spot and quickly gets to work. With her sharp claws, she grabs the salmon with ease, guts them with her teeth, and devours them, everything except the head!
Back in Haines, we stroll through the village and stock up on a few groceries to go with our freshly picked mushrooms. Dinner is a wild mushroom sauté with fries (not homemade, sadly, no time), green beans, and a good steak. We eat it all in the car, sheltered from the rain, facing the bay.
Before leaving Haines, we return to the river for one last chance to see the bears. Unfortunately, the place is now full of fishermen. No bears, but we do enjoy watching a majestic bald eagle. Rémi has developed a bit of a passion with eagles, he’s determined to get the perfect shot. Which is not easy, since they always perch way up high, out of reach. But he’s doing a great job 😉
We loved watching the bears fish for salmon so much that we will definitely return to the Chilkoot River on our way back from our trip! Now it’s time for the long drive back to Canada. We had planned to take the ferry, but the cost is outrageous and the next one isn’t for another three days. So, we’re preparing to take the long road back to the Alaska Highway and onward to Whitehorse, nearly 400 km (250 miles), passing through the improbable Carcross Desert. As we cross the border out of Alaska—America’s 49th state—we spot our 49th bear by the roadside. A beautiful coincidence 😊 Either way, we are thrilled to have finally seen bears fishing for salmon in Alaska!
