Breathtaking landscapes, the highest peak in North America, wildlife, rivers, snow-capped mountains, and a particularly scenic road: we are back in the incredible Denali Park!
Saturday, August 17, 2024
After our long expedition on the Dalton Highway, we’re back in Fairbanks. For our last weekend in the area, we head to Chena River State Recreation Area. This vast protected space is centered around the Chena River, offering campgrounds, rental cabins, hiking trails, ATV paths, and popular fishing and hunting spots. The scenic dead-end road leading into the park is lined with ponds. We camp by the river, surrounded by mosquitoes and humidity—no solution for the bugs, but a nice campfire on the pebble beach helps with the dampness.
The evening is peaceful—until a huge RV parks right next to us. Their dog starts barking at us for no reason, soon joined by the gentle hum of their generator… We love it! 😑
Sunday, August 18
Despite the cloudy sky, we decide to trust the weather forecast predicting sunshine and go for a hike. We set off on a 6-kilometer loop that follows a river arm before ascending. The woods are damp, much to Rémi’s delight, as mushrooms are everywhere! He embarks on a search for the ultimate treasure: a morel. Although they are supposedly around, all we find are less desirable mushrooms. Meanwhile, we enjoy the beautiful view.
Back on the road, we take time to rotate the tires, which is long overdue since the last rotation in Mendoza, Argentina, in January! We’ve certainly racked up a lot of miles since then. Rémi is efficient: in just 1.5 hours, each tire finds its new position.
We eat on the go in the rain, then head to the end of the road. The Chena River Road is indeed a dead-end road, which ends at a luxury lodge. The place is large and quite crowded on this Sunday. In addition to the lodge’s beautiful suites, there are also helicopter tours, dog sledding excursions, an ice museum, massages, a swimming pool, and… natural hot springs! Well then! We’re cold, we’re wet, and our last swim was in the 7°C water of the Arctic Ocean. Needless to say, we don’t hesitate for long. We pay the $20 entry fee per person and then dive into the hot water of the first jacuzzi available to us. And I’ll tell you this: we were quicker to get into the water here than in the Arctic! 😂
We spend the afternoon lounging between the different jacuzzis and the natural outdoor pool. At 7 p.m., we leave the place, feeling warm and cozy, and settle in the same spot as the day before, by the river, for a quieter evening than the previous one.
Tuesday, August 20
The weather is rarely accurate in Alaska. When the forecast predicts rain, there’s no doubt: it will rain. However, when they predict sunshine, it’s not guaranteed to actually be there… For this week, the predictions are clear: rain, lots of rain. The only day spared? Today! So, we decide to take our chances, no matter what, to spend the one potentially sunny day of the week in Denali Park. After a day of driving from Fairbanks, we arrive at the park gates early in the morning. The blue sky is visible between a few clouds. We’re hopeful that the day will be sunny 🤞.
Ah, Denali. What can we say about this incredible national park? Denali Park is our favorite national park in the United States. It is home to the highest peak in North America: Mount Denali, standing at 6,190 meters above sea level. Two years ago, we had the incredible luck of catching a brief glimpse of it, although only for a short time. Mount Denali is rarely visible. As we venture onto the 20 kilometers of the park accessible by car, we scan the mountains, full of hope. But the clouds are still thick around Denali, which remains hidden. But it doesn’t matter, because the landscapes before us immediately remind us why we loved this park so much.
The weather is 4°C, but it seems to be clearing up. After a quick breakfast taken directly in the parking lot, we set off on a 7-kilometer hike. As we climb, we gradually shed our various layers of clothing. In front of us, the clouds start to disperse. The sun rises in the sky. And the landscapes have taken on their beautiful autumn hues!
And suddenly… around a bend: Mount Denali presents itself to us, framed by a gap in the clouds. It is stunning, as beautiful and majestic as in our memories.
From the ridge, the wind blows in icy gusts, but what a view! The gaze stretches for miles, encompassing much of the Alaska Range, with Denali as the obvious highest peak. From our elevated viewpoint, we are also in the perfect position to spot the park’s wildlife. Many caribou roam the vast taiga plains, though they’re too far for our camera lens. We also catch sight of a grizzly in the riverbed, its light fur shining in the sun. That’s actually what drew our attention! Without that, we probably wouldn’t have noticed it! And of course, the low vegetation of the taiga is home to a multitude of small creatures: pikas, ground squirrels, marmots, and wild geese!
By the time we descend to the road, the weather has cleared up perfectly. Instead of taking the bus back to our starting point, we decide to walk the 4 kilometers along the side of the road. This way, we can enjoy the beautiful landscapes of Denali Park and Denali itself, which honors us with its presence!
Back at the Jeep, we settle in the parking lot as if we were at home to cook some delicious, hearty burgers. Hikers passing by wish us a good meal with a bewildered look! 😅 We eat in the sun, sitting at the back of the Jeep. How pleasant it is! Then, we head out for a walk along the Savage River.
As evening falls, we drive along the park’s scenic route in search of animals. It’s moose rutting season, so we scan the forest for some beautiful specimens. We finally spot two lovely and large females!
After this amazing day in Denali National Park, we leave the park and head south in Alaska. The plan for the next few days: an evening in a cabin deep in the woods!
