How do you get back to reality after a two-and-a-half-year road trip along the Pan-American Highway, from Alaska to Ushuaia? Overnight, after more than two years living on the road in our expedition Jeep, we had to return to a more conventional lifestyle. Get back into a routine, return to work, become sedentary again, and relearn how to live in an apartment. It was hard to give up our daily life filled with adventure, discoveries, encounters, wide-open spaces, and nature. Hard to accept that our dream was over. That we had to move forward and find new goals, new projects. That this incredible journey was now behind us, like an unbelievable dream that, as time passes, seems increasingly unreal.
Fortunately, after more than two years of living in a Jeep and a rooftop tent, exposed to the elements, we desperately needed comfort. And it’s this, more than anything else, that helped us ease back into normal life. Because in the end, life feels simple and sweet when you have unlimited water and electricity, access to a (hot!) shower and a toilet, and a fully equipped kitchen. Life in an apartment is so easy! But does all this comfort outweigh the adventures we experienced? Not so sure.
The aftermath of this long journey was a strong desire to stay at home, warm and cozy, watching the rain and then the snow fall outside. After these two years on the road, we rested. Truly rested. We enjoyed the comfort we had regained and needed a few weeks to process everything we had experienced. But winter in Canada is a season we love! So we used our weekends to go on little adventures, on our own or with friends. And winter in Quebec is always an adventure!
Hiking with Friends in the Snow
It had been several years since we last experienced a Quebec winter. Before the trip, we enjoyed winter camping. Our record? A night in the rooftop tent at -30°C! Maybe we’ll do it again someday, but not this winter! We’ve had more than our share of cold over the past two years. Nevertheless, it was with great pleasure that we returned hiking with friends in the snow, on snowshoes or crampons, through the woods and on frozen lakes.
The Quebec Winter Carnival
The Quebec Winter Carnival is THE event of the year in Quebec. Every February, it sets the streets of Quebec City alight for 10 days, offering activities, games, entertainment, competitions, and parades for all ages. And the colder it is, the better the Carnival! Because the Carnival is also a way to celebrate winter and make the most of it, whatever the temperature. So we spent the weekend at the Carnival with friends, in particularly freezing temperatures ❄️.
Games and Entertainment at the Quebec Winter Carnival
There’s no secret to staying warm when it’s freezing, you have to keep moving! And there’s no shortage of things to do at the Carnival: a giant Ferris wheel with a live DJ, an ice slide, maple taffy on snow, hammer throwing, concerts and dancing, ice sculpting, and a castle made of ice. The bonfires installed here and there quickly became our favorite spots to warm our toes and noses!
Snow Sculpture
The Carnival hosts a snow sculpture competition. With saws, ice picks, and chainsaws, the sculptures slowly come to life over the weekend! Indeed, it takes several days of work to transform a giant block of packed snow into a beautiful sculpture.
Night Parade
At nightfall, it’s time for the parade. And what a parade! It’s -17°C, but the entire city seems to have gathered on the main street. The wait is long before the parade starts. We bounce in place to stay warm, but our feet quickly go numb. Still, the cold is soon forgotten when the first floats appear. For an hour, they parade past with music, dancing, orchestras, and live performances. It’s magical!
Activities Around the Château Frontenac
The Carnival is also a chance for us to rediscover the city of Quebec, which we really love. We wander through the historic center in search of the city’s best poutine. Because honestly, nothing warms you up like a good poutine! Our stroll naturally takes us to the stunning Château Frontenac, which overlooks the St. Lawrence River and Old Quebec. For the Carnival, rappelling is organized down the front of the Château! The view from up there must be incredible!
Ice Canoe Race
Ice canoeing was once a key way to travel across the St. Lawrence River. Today, it’s a competitive sport! The canoe race is the biggest event of the Quebec Winter Carnival. Around 11 a.m., crowds gather on the riverbanks. On one side: Quebec. On the other: Lévis. In between, the 1.5-kilometer-wide St. Lawrence, with its icy waters and drifting chunks of ice.
The goal of the race? Paddle from Quebec to Lévis as fast as possible—and back again, not once, but three times—alternating between paddling through open water and running or pulling the canoe across ice floes. Racers have to choose the best path by spotting navigable channels and avoiding the largest ice blocks. It’s an extremely physical sport that immediately earns our admiration!
Snowstorms!
Winter in Montréal also brought one of the biggest snowstorms of the past 50 years. Two back-to-back storms, one on Thursday, one on Sunday, buried Montreal under 70 centimeters of snow! All that snow gave Jeepy a funny look! And yes, if you’re wondering what happened to our trusty expedition Jeep which took us all the way to Ushuaia, it’s doing great! We removed all its expedition gear, and it spent the winter hibernating on the street just below our place.
Mont Sutton
One of our favorite winter getaways! Just two hours from Montréal, Mont Sutton gets tons of snow each year and is known for its beautiful snow ghosts. As we hike through the woods on the Round Top Trail, the snow is fresh and deep. It’s magnificent. However, the temperature is icy: -25°C.
From the Round Top, the view of the snow-covered mountains is breathtaking, even through the mist. After the climb warmed us up, we devour our half-frozen sandwiches.
Winter flew by—and we already can’t wait to re-equip the Jeep and head out for a few camping weekends, to feel, just for a little while, like we’re back on the road again!
