Another trail, another climb, another crater, another volcano! But this time, we’re swapping the long, exhausting, knee-breaking descent for… a sled! Yes, you can actually sledding down Cerro Negro! First time we’ve ever descended an entire volcano in just 10 minutes flat! 😎
Tuesday, June 6, 2023
We leave behind Telica Volcano and its impressive crater to head to another volcano: Cerro Negro. A black sand track, dotted with cow patties and horse droppings, leads us to the park entrance. Let’s just say JP didn’t end up in the best condition! For once, he’s not covered in mud, but in s… well, you get the idea. 😂
At the entrance, we pay the fees: $5 per person and $10 per… sled. Yes, because Cerro Negro must be climbed on foot, but it can be descended by sled! Well, “sled” is a strong word—it’s basically a few wooden planks nailed together, but it should do the trick. We drive to the foot of the volcano and stop for lunch. There are two kinds of people here: the daredevils who race down at full speed without stopping and the cautious ones who brake constantly and take forever to get down. Something tells me Rémi and I won’t be in the same category. 😅 This actually looks more intense than expected!
Climbing a volcano is already tough, but climbing a volcano while carrying a heavy, bulky wooden sled is something else! The slope is steep, and the volcanic rocks slide under our feet. But step by step, we gain elevation.
After an hour of hiking, we reach the ridge of the volcano. The crater is a barren landscape—no visible smoke, just a few fumaroles—but the heat rising from below is intense, warming our faces. The place is also swarming with insects, some of which bite! No way to stay still. On the other side, ancient lava flows stretch for miles across the valley.
We head toward the sledding track. But before launching ourselves down, we need to gear up: heavy denim jumpsuits, thick gloves, and protective goggles. In a flash, we look like Mario Kart versions of ourselves—or, in Rémi’s case, more like a plumber. 😂 What a look!
Then it’s time for the descent of Cerro Negro on a sled over volcanic sand. The slope is steep, it’s impressive. I go first. At the entrance, they told us that to brake and stop, we need to dig our feet into the sand. The problem is that I pick up speed so quickly that the technique doesn’t work! I have to use my hands and half throw myself off the sled to stop 😅
Braking? Rémi doesn’t have that problem: he goes straight down without stopping, overtaking me with a determined look and quickly disappearing from my sight in a trail of dust. What a pro! I find him at the bottom, very happy to have sled down Cerro Negro, hair messy and covered in a good layer of black dust.
Fortunately, we know we’ll get a good shower tonight at the hostel! We return our gear and leave the park, not without finally managing to take a nice photo of a motmot, the national bird of El Salvador.
Heading to León, a colonial city. Roof tent camping options are limited, so we book two nights at Volcano Hostel. We get the Telica room, a nice reminder of great memories! JP finds a spot right in front of the entrance, so we and the guard can keep an eye on it easily. The room is perfect—spacious, with three fans cooling us from all sides and a bathroom. And as a bonus, a pool! 😛
Wednesday, June 7
We spend the morning working by the pool, taking advantage of the good WiFi to Skype with family—until a big storm cuts the connection. Time to explore the city and, more importantly, eat! Wandering the streets, we find small buffet-style street food stands at unbeatable prices. For 100 cordobas per person (about €2.50), we get a generous plate of food and a fresh juice.
León hasn’t always been in its current location. Earthquakes and eruptions from Momotombo Volcano repeatedly destroyed the original city, León Viejo, about 30 km from here. The new León was built farther from the volcanoes. Today, it’s a university town and the birthplace of the Sandinista revolution in the 1960s and 70s. The FSLN (Sandinista National Liberation Front), supported by most of the population, fought against the ruling dictatorship. After a bloody war, the dictatorship was overthrown in 1979. The city’s murals still tell the story of this revolution.
We then visit the Cathedral of the Assumption, built between 1747 and 1814. It’s the largest cathedral in Central America! Its white rooftop offers a stunning view of the city’s rooftops and the surrounding volcanoes: San Cristóbal, Telica, Cerro Negro, and Momotombo. But there’s one rule—you must remove your shoes before stepping onto the roof!
In the evening, we return to town for burritos at a food truck. Nicaraguan burritos? They’re good, but not quite up to Mexican standards! For dessert, we treat ourselves to a peanut butter, chocolate, and banana smoothie. 😋 A perfect way to end the night while working on our laptops.
Thursday, June 8
At 11 a.m., everything is ready—except us! We’re supposed to check out, but motivation is low. So, we listen to ourselves and decide to stay one more night, enjoying the hostel and finishing up work. We spend the day eating at the buffet again, swimming, and relaxing. In the evening, we have falafels, then finish off with strawberry/peach and Oreo smoothies, which we enjoy in our room while watching the Koh-Lanta semi-final. A cozy and satisfying night! 😊
Friday, June 9
This morning, it’s the right time! Now that we’ve finished everything we needed to do and had a chance to rest at the hostel, our motivation is back, and we can leave León with peace of mind. But our plan has changed: instead of continuing south, we’re backtracking 50 kilometers toward San Cristóbal volcano. This volcano intrigues us, and we suddenly decided that we want to climb it.
The paved road turns into a cobblestone path, which then becomes a muddy track. We keep going up and soon find ourselves in the clouds. No more heat and sun—here, it’s cool and raining. Not a bad change after the stifling heat of the past few days! The family managing the park entrance welcomes us. The price isn’t cheap: $15 for camping and $10 for park entry. On top of that, we can’t see a thing because the clouds block the view. Ouch, we hope it clears up by tomorrow; otherwise, we’ll have to cancel our climb. The park manager seems confident, though, and advises us to start at 5:30 a.m.! Ouch. Very kind, he offers Rémi a strong cup of coffee, made right at the finca.
We head to bed early… listening to the rain. The alarm is set for 5 a.m. Now, all we can do is hope for a miracle—a clear sky tomorrow morning—for our ascent of Nicaragua’s tallest volcano. 🤞
