After visiting Bali’s iconic Hindu temples, then swimming with dolphins at Lovina Beach in northern Bali, we continue our family journey with a visit to central Bali. Far from the beaches, the inland area is mountainous, cool, and lush, with countless things to discover. On the itinerary for these 2 days in central Bali: canyoning at the Aling-Aling waterfalls, visiting a Buddhist monastery, tasting tea and coffee on a plantation, not forgetting the famous Jatiluwih terraced rice fields and our arrival in Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali. A journey full of discoveries… and twists and turns!

Central Bali tour: 2-day itinerary between nature and rice terraces

Saturday, February 7, 2026

This morning, we leave Lovina Beach and its dolphins to explore central Bali on a 2-day itinerary. The inland area is particularly mountainous, with cooler temperatures and many waterfalls. Our driver for the next two days is named Agus. He picks us up at the hotel in his sedan. The car is spacious, but one of us still has to “take one for the team” and squeeze into the trunk. We then leave Bali’s north coast behind and head into the mountains. We take the same road we came in on—after all, there’s only one!

Aling-Aling Waterfalls in Central Bali: Swimming and Canyoning

After 30 minutes on a winding road from Lovina Beach, Agus drops us off at our first stop of the day: the Aling-Aling waterfalls. There are three ways to visit the Aling-Aling waterfalls: a long route, a medium route, and a short route. We hesitate a bit, but finally settle on a balanced option between effort and fun. We are assigned Madi, a mandatory guide, and off we go through the jungle toward the waterfalls.

This first waterfall is very beautiful, nestled in its green setting. It is the tallest of them all. Then we follow the river to reach the other waterfalls a bit upstream. Along the way, we notice sensors installed in the river. They measure rising water levels. When the water reaches their level, alarms are triggered in the villages downstream. But today, everything is calm. Well, calm is an understatement. The waterfalls roar fiercely.

5-meter jump at Aling-Aling Waterfalls

A first 5-meter-high jump platform allows you to dive into the pool below. The boys jump without hesitation.

Natural waterslide at Aling-Aling Waterfalls

But what they are really interested in is the waterfall that flows into the pool. According to Madi, you can climb to the top and slide down it like a natural waterslide. It sounds relatively dangerous, his story. But he is super enthusiastic and assures us it is safe. Lucas agrees to follow him. They cross the river, climb a staircase carved into the rock, and there they are at the top of the waterfall. Lucas sits down, crosses his arms over his chest, and with a small push, he slides down the waterfall and lands heavily in the pool, disappearing for a few seconds before resurfacing a few meters away. Wow! Intense! Delighted, Lucas goes again. And this time, Rémi follows him.

Thrilling jumps from 9 and 14 meters

The Aling-Aling waterfalls are not done offering some thrills to the boys. Along the river, several waterfalls follow one another, of varying heights. They skip the small 2-meter jump to go straight to the 9-meter jump…

Then the 14-meter jump!

Aling-Aling Waterfalls for beginners and the faint-hearted

So brave! And to think that mom and I are shaking at the idea of a 2-meter jump! After a bit of hesitation, I jump. But for mom, since Lucas isn’t here this time to give her a little push (that’s how she ended up jumping 2 meters into a cenote in Mexico 😂), she decides to skip it. She does give the small natural slide a try, though—not without a bit of fear!

Sacred bathing at Bali’s Holy Hot Springs

After all these thrills at the Aling-Aling waterfalls, we head to the Holy Hot Springs for some relaxation. To get there, we have to walk through a long alley of shops. Everyone is selling the same thing: sarongs, dresses, clothes, bags. We get called out from all sides. At the end of the alley, the hot springs are nestled in lush vegetation. There are several pools of naturally warm water. Some are forbidden to tourists because they are reserved for prayer. Yarana and Lucas prefer to sit this one out. Lucas is also starting to feel unwell. We all agree: it’s the Greek salad eaten the day before! Everyone could tell something was suspucious with that waterlogged salad 😅. We laugh, but hope he’ll be okay. Rémi, mom, and I go to relax in the warm water and under the massaging jets.

Meditative visit to Bali’s largest Buddhist monastery

After one hour, we find Lucas sprawled on one of the restaurant tables, completely drained. Back in the car, he finally agrees to take a pill—that’s when you know he’s really not feeling well! We hit the road again to visit another beautiful site in central Bali, while asking Agus to drive slowly. Lucas even sits by the door, just in case. We then go to visit the Brahmavihara-Arama Buddhist monastery, where we are welcomed by a giant statue of Buddha. It is a unique Buddhist temple in Bali, where 87% of the population practices Hinduism. Built in the 1970s, it’s the largest Buddhist temple on the island and stands as a symbol of religious and cultural coexistence.

The place is quiet and almost deserted as we wander through the gardens. There’s a beautiful sense of serenity and spirituality in the air. Everything is well maintained, lush, and carefully maintained. You almost feel like meditating. On top of that, it’s really photogenic. The unique architecture blends Balinese and Buddhist elements in a harmonious way.

We find many Stupas, bell-shaped sculptures. They remind us of the Borobudur temple in Java, which we visited during our first trip to Indonesia in August 2017.

Adventures on Bali’s roads

While we marvel at the beauty of the garden and the Balinese Buddhist temple, Lucas is—let’s not be afraid to say it—on the verge of collapse. He wanders through the gardens, from bench to bench, looking miserable, far from the peaceful, meditative state the place is meant to inspire. We just hope he doesn’t throw up all over a bed of pretty purple flowers! 😂

On the road, his condition doesn’t improve. The road is winding, chaotic, and narrow. Agus weaves through the mountains of central Bali toward Munduk. Then, around a bend, Lucas asks Agus to stop. With surprising quickness, Agus immediatly pulls over to the side just in time for Lucas to open the door, lean out, and throw up. Agus joins him, tissues and a bottle of water in hand, very attentive. He must be used to motion-sick tourists by now (though probably because of his driving, not because of a Greek salad). While Lucas is throwing up his guts, mom exclaims: “Go further, Lucas.” She’s worried she might get sick too.

After a few moments, however, she seems to realize the situation. “Poor thing.” “Are you okay?” “We should have gotten out too to support him.” True enough! Only Agus got out of the car, while the rest of us stayed inside. Mom even told Lucas to go throw up further away. That’s all it takes for us to burst into uncontrollable laughter 🤣. Once he’s pulled himself together, Lucas gets back into the car. He’s feeling better, and we can calmly resume the drive to Munduk. “I tried to do it gracefully,” he says, which only makes us laugh even more.

Night in Munduk in the mountains of central Bali

We then decide to head to our hotel in Munduk so Lucas and Yarana can rest. Munduk is an essential stop when visiting central Bali. Located in the mountains, it offers a cooler climate, especially welcome after the recent heat. Munduk is also known for heavy rainfall, especially during the rainy season! So we are not surprised to arrive at the hotel under a light tropical rain.

Our hotel, nestled in nature, is a real favorite: a resort with breathtaking views over the valley. Traveling in the low season has its advantages, iespecially the chance to stay in Munduk hotels that are usually out of reach, at more affordable prices. Lucas and Yarana immediately go to rest in their room. Rémi, mom, and I sit in the restaurant to try waffles, pancakes, and fried bananas. The restaurant overlooks the valley and, despite the clouds and rain, the view is magnificent.

We also have the same view from our rooms. The balcony opens directly onto the surrounding mountains. And the room itself is also beautiful.

Our hotel in Munduk: an incredible infinity pool overlooking the valley

But the highlight of this hotel is without a doubt its infinity pool. To get there, you have to walk down the endless stairs to the bottom of the hotel, which are particularly slippery. You go down through the soaked gardens under a light rain. And at the bottom, the pool, magnificent facing the view.

At that point, there is only one desire: to jump in and swim! The problem is that it is cold and raining. We hesitate a bit, but ultimately, the opportunity to swim in such a pool in Munduk won’t come around again anytime soon. No sooner said than done, we put our swimsuits back on. Mom goes first. The water is cold, and so is the rain. She goes down one step while shivering. Then two steps, and we can tell she is going to take forever to get in. Then th… But on the third step, there is no step anymore! Mom suddenly disappears into the water with a shriek. Rémi and I burst out laughing 🤣🤣. She resurfaces a few seconds later, stunned and shocked, hair in her face and out of breath. We are in stitches. It takes us a long time to recover from this episode.

Completely frozen, we carefully make our way back up to our rooms, trying not to slip on the uneven, wet stone steps. A hot shower, a bit of rest, and we meet again in the evening at the restaurant to end our first day in central Bali over a good meal. Lucas shows up, slightly recovered. He has just slept 4 hours! However, there is no way he can touch the food, his stomach is still a bit unsettled. It will be vegetable soup for me, chicken skewers (satay ayam) for Rémi, and spaghetti for mom.

Day 2 of our itinerary in central Bali: panoramic view over Twin Lake

Sunday, February 08

After a hearty breakfast, we head back out with Agus to continue our visit of central Bali. The road takes us high into the mountains, where we find ourselves in thick, impenetrable fog. But when we arrive at the Twin Lake viewpoint, a break in the clouds allows us to take a few photos of the view over the mountains of Bali.

Bali Handara Gate: the famous Balinese gates

A long traffic jam then slows us down. Eventually, after an hour, we realize that this endless traffic jam was actually caused by tree trimming along the roadside! Agus then drops us off at Bali Handara Gate. When we came here in 2017, the place was empty and free. Today, you have to park in a small lot, check in at the booth, and pay 50,000 IDR per person as an entrance fee, about €2.50. All that just to take a few photos in front of these beautiful Balinese gates. They have become an essential stop during a visit to central Bali, made famous by social media. We take turns posing in front of the gates until the guard at the entrance comes out with his megaphone and shouts “Next!”, signaling that we must give way to others.

Coffee plantation in Bali: tasting and discovery of Luwak coffee

Next, we head to Hidden Garden. A very brisk guide takes us in charge. She talks extremely fast at the front of our small group of five, then moves on determinedly, leaving us to relay the information like a game of telephone. “What did she say?” “What is this?” We walk through the gardens, where all kinds of plants, herbs, and unimaginable fruits grow: mangosteen, durian, avocado, coconut, papaya, vanilla, turmeric, ginseng, cocoa, and of course coffee.

Luwak Coffee production process

She introduces us to the production process of Luwak Coffee. The luwak is a small furry animal that feeds on coffee cherries in the plantations. It eats the pulp, swallows the bean, digests it, and then excretes it 💩. The droppings are then collected, cleaned to extract the coffee beans, which are roasted and ground. And that’s how one of the most expensive coffees in the world is made!

Tasting Balinese tea and coffee

After visiting the gardens, it’s time for tasting: mangosteen tea, lemongrass, ginger, ginseng, turmeric and red rice, then coffee with vanilla, chocolate, coconut, avocado, ginseng, ginger and of course traditional Balinese coffee. But not the luwak coffee, which is paid separately! We choose not to taste it, as many ethical issues surround luwak coffee, like any economy based on animal exploitation. Indeed, nowadays luwaks are often kept in captivity and mistreated, living in cages and being fed exclusively coffee cherries.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces: the most beautiful terraced rice fields in Bali

For long minutes, we play along with the tasting experience. We even become food critics! This one is too sweet, that one too bitter, this one too strong, that one too spicy. We even do blind tastings to see if we can recognize each type (we can’t). Finally, back at the shop, we end up buying a few tea/coffee/vanilla pod souvenirs. And under a rainstorm worthy of the best of Bali’s rainy season, we head back to the car. Next stop in our visit of central Bali: one of the island’s most famous gems, the Jatiluwih rice terraces!

Jatiluwih rice terraces are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The half-hour drive lets us leave the rain behind, and under a grey but clear sky, we discover the incredible terraced rice fields so typical of Bali. The landscape is stunning, with vibrant green tones and volcanoes in the background. Incredible!

Hiking in the heart of the Jatiluwih rice terraces

A small hiking trail takes us into the heart of the rice fields. How beautiful! The plantations are still young, but they have grown enough to cover the landscape in a beautiful green. We love this color!

Ubud: next must-see stop on our Bali trip

After this magnificent walk through the Jatiluwih rice terraces, we settle in a restaurant offering a breathtaking view over the fields. However, the food is a disaster. That’s the risk with very touristy restaurants. No matter: we’ll make up for it tonight. Our visit of central Bali is far from over. We now hit the road toward the next stop on our itinerary in Bali, which we are really looking forward to: Ubud, the true cultural heart of Bali, known for its artistic atmosphere, temples, and lively local life. A new side of the island awaits us.

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After exploring Bali’s iconic temples such as Uluwatu and Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, we head north of the island toward Lovina Beach, one of the best places in Bali for a dolphin watching tour. This quiet seaside town is famous for an unforgettable experience: watching dolphins at sunrise—and even swimming with them. What better way to celebrate Mom’s 60th birthday in Bali than a dolphin watching tour in Lovina Beach? It’s one of the most popular activities in North Bali. Seeing dolphins in their natural habitat is a rare privilege and the perfect birthday gift. But did the experience live up to our expectations, or was it more mixed? We’re telling you everything!

Lovina Beach: the must-visit spot for a dolphin watching tour in Bali

Friday, February 06, 2026

To see dolphins at Lovina Beach in North Bali, you have to wake up very early. Most dolphin watching tours in Bali leave around 6 a.m., just before sunrise. We walk to the beach, about 10 minutes from our hotel, as the day slowly brightens. There, we meet Captain Morgan and his traditional boat, who will guide us on this dolphin excursion trip.

The first light of day breaks through the clouds as we speed toward the horizon. The goal of the morning: spotting dolphins at sunrise, the ideal time to see them. Famous for this activity, Lovina Beach is one of the best places in Bali to see dolphins in the wild all year round. The last time we saw dolphins was during a tour in Ushuaia. We hope to reset the counter today. But as with all wild animals in their natural environment, nothing is guaranteed. So will the dolphins show up for Mom’s birthday?

Dolphin excursion in Bali: a popular experience at Lovina Beach

We quickly realize we are not the only ones heading out on a dolphin tour. In fact, dozens of other boats are going in the same direction, all searching for dolphins off the coast of Lovina Beach. Even in the low season, this activity remains very popular. We are in Bali, after all. High or low season, it’s always busy. The captains communicate by phone and all head toward a large bay known for dolphin sightings. On board, we scan the waves looking for fins. Will the dolphins show up today? Will we be lucky enough to see them? With all these boats, the agitation makes us wonder. Honestly, with so much chaos, I’d stay away too if I were a dolphin! 😆

Suddenly, all the boats head in the same direction. It feels like traffic on the sea: total chaos. Dozens of boats rush to the same spot to try to spot dolphins. Yet everything is perfectly controlled: the captains maneuver with impressive precision. And the dolphins are there. They swim in groups, appearing between the boats. There are dozens of them. They surface on one side, dive under, then reappear on the other. Left, right, in front, behind. By the time you turn your head, they’ve already vanished and reappeared elsewhere. It becomes almost dizzying (and a bit seasick!) as we keep turning in every direction.

Captain Morgan perfectly controls his boat. He manages to follow the dolphins and anticipate their movements so that we are always nearby when they come up for air. After a while, he shouts: “Do you want to swim?” Swim! Lucas, Yarana, Rémi and I back off. No way we’re getting in the water here. But Mom says yes! Without hesitation, she puts on a mask and jumps in. She simply holds onto a wooden handle attached to the boat, puts her head underwater, and lets herself be carried along.

Swimming with dolphins in Bali: the highlight of the Lovina excursion

Captain Morgan spots the dolphins, positions the boat perfectly on their path and shouts: “Look!” Mom puts her head underwater and witnesses the incredible ballet of dolphins swimming gracefully beneath her. There are dozens of them, moving in harmony side by side, passing right underneath her. Wow! 🐬 The boat cuts through the water to follow them, and she struggles to catch her breath between waves and spray. “Left!” “Right!” “Straight ahead!” Dolphins are everywhere and she manages to spot them several times underwater. Incredible! A dolphin tour in Bali for her 60th birthday, and even swimming with dolphins—this is truly unforgettable 😎.

Our review of the Bali dolphin watching tour: between magic and overcrowding

We learned something during our Pan-American road trip from Canada to Argentina: observing animals in their natural habitat is always a precious privilege. We are the ones entering their world, and it is important to remain humble and respectful.

It is obviously difficult to see dolphins at sea without joining a tour. However, we must admit that the concentration of dozens of boats around them made for a rather mixed experience. It is hard not to think about the impact of this daily, year-round activity on dolphins hunting in the bay, with stress and disturbance. As in many tourist spots in Bali and elsewhere, the high level of crowds and over-tourism raises questions about wildlife preservation and respect. Despite everything, this dolphin excursion at Lovina Beach remains a memorable experience from our family trip to Bali. It’s not every day you get to see dolphins in the wild—and even swim with them!

Back to the hotel and relaxation after the excursion

We return to Lovina Beach and to the Rambutan Hotel after 2 hours on the water, starving. A hearty breakfast is waiting for us. To reach the restaurant, we walk through the gardens, which we are discovering for the first time in daylight and without rain. They are beautiful, well maintained, full of flowers and lush greenery. The restaurant even has a second pool, much larger than the first!

We enjoy a hearty breakfast, then relax by the pool.

Visiting Lovina Beach in the low season: atmosphere and local life

At 2 p.m., we start feeling hungry. So we head out to explore Lovina Beach. The main street is lined with small massage shops (“massage, massage?”), local restaurants, and agencies offering various activities, including tours around the region. Perfect timing—we need to plan the rest of our Bali trip. We talk to different people, trying to negotiate the best price, or at least not get overcharged.

Despite the crowds out on the water this morning (mostly tourists who came to Lovina Beach just to see dolphins and left right after), the streets are empty and shopkeepers are all over us. When we pass their stalls, they don’t let go. Mom gets pulled into a shop by a woman trying to sell her a dress at all costs. Rémi, meanwhile, gets harassed by an older lady trying to sell him mangosteens at an inflated price. It takes us quite a while to escape and finally find a restaurant.

We celebrate Mom’s 60th birthday in Bali!

We then sit down in a large empty restaurant and order our usual fruit juices: banana, orange, tomato for Lucas, and the classic avocado-chocolate smoothie for Mom—not great. But we quickly realize nothing here is really great. We order pizza, fries, guacamole, chicken skewers and… Greek salad for Lucas. A strange choice in a Balinese restaurant, especially since we keep reminding ourselves to avoid raw vegetables. Even worse, his salad arrives soaked in water. Yikes: between tomato juice and the suspicious Greek salad, we worry about his stomach 😅. Suddenly, a familiar tune plays in the restaurant: “Happy Birthday!” ♭ Everyone is surprised except Yarana! She secretly told the waitress it was Mom’s birthday. As a result, Mom gets a beautiful birthday cheesecake with a candle!

Back at the hotel after this not-so-great meal, we settle again by the pool. Lucas and Yarana, who had gone into town, come back with a real dessert: donuts! What better than enjoying big donuts by the pool? We spend the rest of the day there, until rain drives us away in the late afternoon.

Next stop: heading to Munduk in central Bali

In the evening, Lucas and Yarana want Vietnamese food. No problem, there’s a Vietnamese restaurant on the main road, about 1 km from the hotel. So off we go, led by Lucas. What we forgot is that we are in Indonesia. Here, pedestrians don’t really exist. We walk along the main road with cars and trucks rushing past us at full speed. And we still have to cross. What a hassle! In the end, this short kilometer takes much longer than expected. Luckily, it wasn’t for nothing—the Vietnamese restaurant is delicious.

To end this day in Lovina Beach, we walk back to the hotel along the beach path, quieter and more pleasant but also darker. After this long day marked by our Bali dolphin watching tour and our discovery of the town, everyone heads to their room to rest. Tomorrow, we continue our road trip across Bali as we drive to Munduk in the center of the island.

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After a rest day in Jimbaran to recover from the journey and jet lag, our family trip to Bali can finally begin. We set off to discover the gems of the Island of the Gods, starting with two Bali’s iconic Hindu temples: the Uluwatu and the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.

Thursday, February 5, 2026

After a hearty breakfast at the hotel restaurant, it’s time to check out. The day before, in Kuta, we had booked a driver for the day. He’s taking us all the way to Lovina Beach, in the north of Bali. There are 5 of us, with just as many bags, so he shows up with a large 9-seater minivan! Needless to say, we are travelling in style. Maybe a little too much so… The driver quickly decides the minivan is oversized for our group. He wants to switch to a smaller vehicle that’s easier to handle in Bali’s chaotic traffic. In the meantime, we set off in the minivan toward the Bukit Peninsula, in the south of the island, where we’ll visit one of Bali’s most famous temples: Uluwatu.

Built in the 11th century, this Hindu temple is an important symbol of Balinese culture. It features pagoda-style roofs, typical of Balinese architecture. The walls are adorned with sculptures depicting Hindu deities and floral motifs. But what truly makes this temple special is its location: perched on top of a 70-metre-high cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. The view is simply breathtaking.

We wander along the clifftop path, scanning the horizon and the waves in search of marine animals. After orcas in Argentina and grey whales in Baja California, we can’t wait to reconnect with wildlife and spot all kinds of animals. Our patience pays off, as we’re lucky enough to catch sight of a sea turtle surfacing several times, and even a small shark swimming near the rocks.

Monkeys are also very much part of the experience at Uluwatu. YYou have to keep a close eye on your belongings, as they’re fearless and quick to snatch anything that catches their attention: sunglasses, bracelets, phones, or small souvenirs. One of them even went after Lucas’s backpack, attracted by a dangling charm. Some of them are particularly large, and when they strut down the path like they own the place, it’s us who quickly step aside to let them pass! The temple guards have got into the habit of feeding them sweet potatoes to keep them from getting too aggressive with visitors.

After our visit, we meet up with our driver, who is still determined to switch vehicles. Off we go to a garage, where we’re asked to squeeze into a car. After several long minutes trying to fit all our luggage into the trunk, we end up crammed three across the back seat, shoulder to shoulder, Yarana in the front, and the fifth passenger… in the trunk, wedged between the bags! From luxury to chaos in no time. Seeing our disappointed faces, the driver finally gives in and agrees to keep the minivan. So everything gets moved back—bags, people, and all—and we hit the road again just as we started.

We’re now heading north to Lovina Beach. Ever optimistic, Google Maps had estimated a 3-hour drive from Uluwatu… but in reality, it takes much longer! Crossing the densely populated south of Bali is slow going, with roadworks, detours, traffic jams, and general chaos. Then comes the drive through the mountains in the centre of the island, along a narrow, winding and very busy road. We rediscover the Indonesian way of driving, which is very much every man for himself. Everyone wants to go first, overtake first, squeeze through first, go faster than everyone else, often with little regard for traffic rules (if they exist at all!). In short, it’s beautifully chaotic.

Around 2pm, the driver pulls up at a restaurant that Rémi and I would call a “tourist restaurant,” but which the locals refer to as a “buffet.” All the drivers drop their tourists off here, so the place is filled entirely with foreign visitors. For 150,000 rupiahs per person (€7.60), we’re treated to an all-you-can-eat buffet. Fortunately, “all you can eat” means the boys more than make it worthwhile!

We then head off to visit one of the most beautiful Hindu temples in Bali: Pura Ulun Danu Bratan. This Hindu temple was built in the 17th century, during the reign of King Mengwi. It is dedicated to the Hindu trinity (Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva) as well as to the goddess of water, lakes and rivers, Dewi Danu.

The temple is built on the edge of Lake Bratan. According to legend, the people of the region once lived in great prosperity, surrounded by fertile volcanic land that produced rice in abundance. The soil was so rich that the rice fields yielded crops endlessly. By the time they harvested the rice from one end of the field to the other, it had already grown back on the other side, and it was time to start harvesting again! Over and over. Tired of constantly harvesting rice, the villagers began to complain about this abundance. So, to punish them for their ingratitude, the Gods flooded the fields and rice paddies, creating Lake Bratan. Today, it remains one of Bali’s main water sources.

We spend a long time wandering through the temple’s flower-filled gardens, admiring the traditional Balinese architecture. The main temple, iconic in Bali, seems to float on the water. Even though low clouds obscure the view of the surrounding mountains, it’s one of the most photogenic temples on the island. The main eleven-tiered structure represents the divisions of the sky, according to Hindu beliefs.

We then continue our journey toward Lovina Beach. The road winds through villages, rice fields, crops, and coffee plantations. There’s traffic everywhere, and it feels chaotic, but our driver skillfully navigates despite our large van. Gradually, we leave the island’s mountainous center. And, around a bend, the vast ocean appears in the distance. The road slopes gently down and we reach the coast.

We finally arrive at our hotel in Lovina Beach, the Ramboutan Hotel, under a torrential downpour. It’s absolutely pouring. We rush to our rooms, bent over under the rain, feet splashing through puddles. Then, already soaked, we decide we might as well go for a swim! We cross the gardens barefoot in swimsuits, with water up to our ankles, and jump straight into the pool, which feels warm compared to the rain. Pure bliss! We stay there, splashing in the rain and chatting, while the downpour rages and thunder rolls.

After a good hot shower, we meet at a warung to enjoy a local meal. On the menu: vegetable soup, vegetable curry, fried rice, stir-fried noodles, chicken skewers, and fresh fruit juice.

Then we head to bed, as we need to get up early tomorrow. Tomorrow, February 6th, is Mom’s birthday, and we’ve planned a surprise she won’t forget anytime soon.

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It all started on December 25, 2025. At the foot of the Christmas tree, Mom discovers four mysterious envelopes containing an exciting gift: plane tickets ✈️! In the first envelope: her ticket. In the second: the tickets for Rémi and me. And finally, in the third: the tickets for Lucas and Yarana, my brother and his wife! Opening the fourth envelope is “optional.” “Of course I’m going to open it,” Mom had said. But when she’s told that this last envelope holds the ultimate secret—the destination—she changes her mind. In the end, wouldn’t it be exciting to keep the secret? To leave without knowing where?

Deep down, what really matters isn’t the destination—it’s the fact that we’re all going together ❤️. That hasn’t happened since March 2023, when we were reunited on the Yucatán Peninsula during our two-and-a-half-year road trip from Alaska to Argentina.

Departure date: February 2, 2026. The goal is to be there on February 6, Mom’s 60th birthday. No time to mess around. January flies by, between preparations and stress. “What should I pack in my suitcase?” “Warm clothes, cold clothes?” Mom has all kinds of theories about the mysterious destination—she only knows the airport code: DPS. That doesn’t help her much. But no matter, it’s her suitcase that stresses her out more than the trip itself! Like us, she loves to travel. Besides Mexico, she came to join us twice during our big Jeep road trip: the first time in Salt Lake City for two weeks of adventure in the American West. And the third time in Peru for an incredible three-week immersion in the land of the Incas. Adventure doesn’t scare her.

Finally, Rémi and I arrive from Montreal on Saturday. The last time we were in France was in June 2024, when we shipped our expedition vehicle from Montevideo, Uruguay, to Houston, Texas. Unfortunately, we don’t have much time to enjoy it—we only spend 24 hours in France, just enough to see family in a whirlwind visit. Then, on Monday morning, it’s off to Toulouse Airport, where Mom discovers the first leg of our journey: Istanbul!

We have a 9-hour layover—more than enough time to gorge on free Turkish delight samples and grab a €7 coffee, and to finally reveal our final destination to Mom. After all that waiting, she’s finally allowed to open the fourth envelope. Inside, a riddle that leads her to figure out that we’re going to Bali. Bali! “Bali, what?” A dream destination to celebrate her 60th birthday as a family 🏝️. She can’t believe it. But she has plenty of time to process the news during the 9-hour layover, followed by a 12-hour flight. In the end, it’s on Tuesday, February 3 at 8 p.m. local time that we land in Indonesia, in Bali, at the “DPS” international airport—Denpasar.

Tuesday, February 3, 2026

For Rémi and me, this is our third time in Indonesia. We previously spent six weeks on the magnificent island of Sumatra, with its orangutans—an incredible trip that left a lasting impression on us and only deepened our love for Indonesia. A year earlier, we had traveled through Java, Bali, Lombok, and Flores on a one-month trip. It was actually the destination of our very first big journey together. We loved it. That was nine years ago. And we can’t wait to rediscover the Island of the Gods and its surrounding islands—this time as a family!

A Grab—the local version of Uber—takes us to the hotel. We’ve booked two nights, just enough time to gently recover from our 36-hour journey and the jet lag. We’re talking about a 6-hour time difference compared to France and 12 hours ahead of Montreal! 😵‍💫 And actually, jet lag isn’t the only big difference between Montreal and Bali. For Rémi and me, the most incredible part is strolling around at midnight in a combo of shorts, T-shirt, and flip-flops 🥵. When it was -25°C just a few days earlier when we left Quebec 🥶. With a 55-degree difference, the thermal shock feels especially delightful ❄️☀️.

We also waste no time diving with delight into the pool. By the time we’ve settled into our rooms, taken a shower, and eaten our first nasi goreng (fried rice, Indonesia’s national dish), Lucas and Yarana arrive. They’re coming from Hong Kong after a 5-hour flight and zero time difference! Needless to say, they’re a lot fresher than we are 😆.

The excitement of being together again outweighs the fatigue, and we spend several hours chatting while devouring the treats Lucas and Yarana brought from the airport 🍬. It’s hot, it’s sunny, the hotel is beautiful and peaceful—we’re on a family trip in Bali, with a month of adventures, mishaps, discoveries, and laughter ahead of us. In short, pure happiness ❤️.

Wednesday, February 4

This morning, we wake up in Bali for our first full day together. The night was excellent. The sun is shining, it’s warm, and the pool water is perfectly heated. And the garden is lush, and we walk barefoot through the grass to get to the pool and visit each other’s rooms. What more could you ask for? We have three rooms overlooking the garden. Mom’s room and Lucas and Yarana’s are next to each other, and of course, Lucas takes the opportunity to drop his favorite line: “You’re never alone—I’ll hear you snore even here!” 😆 We gather for an amazing breakfast. On the menu: nasi goreng for some, omelets and bacon for others, dragon fruit porridge, waffles, fresh fruit and juice, tea, and coffee.

Our hotel is located in Jimbaran, south of Denpasar. It’s the only hotel on the trip that we booked in advance! We chose Jimbaran for its calm atmosphere and beautiful beach, a world away from Kuta, north of Denpasar, known for its lively nightlife. However, we quickly realize that during the day, there isn’t much to do in Jimbaran. So, without hesitation, we hop into a taxi that takes us to Kuta in 30 minutes. Shopping malls, souvenir shops, bustling streets, surf schools, restaurants, and beach clubs—Kuta is a tourist paradise, especially for Australians, who flock here for long weekends in Bali. For us, it’s mainly a chance to scout for souvenirs and even make our first purchases.

What a joy to be back in Bali! We had always remembered it with nostalgia from that first big trip together, which had left such a strong impression on us. And now, here we are again. We delight in all the things we loved about Bali: temples on every corner, the island’s traditional architecture, the small private shrines in front of each house, the offerings on the ground that you must never step on, and the incense burning in front of every home and shop, filling the air with a sweet, fragrant scent. For us, that’s Bali: the smell of incense in the streets.

We also take advantage of being in town to withdraw some cash. Each withdrawal comes with fees that vary depending on the ATM, so the goal is to take out as much as possible in one go to minimize trips. We check out the local ATMs and pick the one that lets us withdraw the highest amount—3 million rupiah (about €155). And we do it twice 💰💰. So, with pockets full of 6 million rupiah, we set off to wander through souvenir shops and grab a bite on the beach, overlooking the Indian Ocean and the surfers.

We then spend the afternoon at the hotel, taking a nap and relaxing by the pool. Later, at sunset, we head out for a walk along Jimbaran Beach. This time, it’s busy—everyone has come out to watch the sunset. The atmosphere is unique: the sound of the waves, children laughing and running along the sand, bursts of laughter, the wind. It’s truly beautiful. We walk barefoot, toes in the water, until the sun finally disappears behind the clouds.

We chose Jimbaran to start our Bali trip because we had such a sweet memory of a meal on the beach—and we absolutely wanted to go back! There are plenty of warungs along the shore, so the choices are endless. And we’re approached from all sides by touts, menus in hand, boasting about their fresh catch of the day. “Well, he’s not going to tell you his fish is from three days ago,” Lucas comments 😅. We pick Bamboo Warung, for no particular reason, and settle on the beach with our feet in the sand. There, we order a feast of grilled fish, clams, shrimp, and calamari. And just like in our memories, musicians come over to serenade us. When they find out we’re French, they start singing “Aline,” much to Mom’s delight!

In February, it’s the peak of the rainy season in Bali. We knew that, but we came anyway. So when it starts to rain, we take it in stride. Rain or shine, we’ll deal with it. For the first time on this trip, we experience what the rainy season in Indonesia is really like—torrents and torrents of water pour down on us. So, soaked to the bone under a tropical downpour, we end our first day of our family trip in Bali. We finish the evening back at the hotel, enjoying the peaceful gardens and the pool one last time. Tomorrow, we hit the road to discover two of Bali’s most iconic Hindu temples: Uluwatu Temple and Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.

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Did you know there is a fifth season in Quebec? At the end of winter, during the snowmelt, when the trees slowly awaken from their winter dormancy. This in-between season lasts about six weeks between March and April, marking the end of the Quebec winter. Between the end of winter and the beginning of spring, weather conditions are very specific: they alternate between periods of freezing and thawing. And it is this cycle that allows the sap to rise inside the trees and then flow out. This period is known as the sugaring-off season.

During this period, maple sap, or maple water (yes, that’s what we’re talking about!), is rich in nutrients and water, which gives it a very slight natural sweetness. And maple water is the base used to make the famous maple syrup! The sugaring-off season is a highly symbolic time in Quebec. It has existed for several centuries. In fact, collecting maple sap was already an important activity for Indigenous peoples long before the arrival of the first explorers. The sugaring-off season is therefore a key period in maple syrup production. And maple syrup in Quebec is a whole story in itself. It is an integral part of Quebec’s cultural and culinary identity, and the province accounts for about 70% of global maple syrup production 🍁.

And this year, we added our own small contribution to maple syrup production! We went to Beauce, south of Quebec City, to make our own maple syrup – the traditional way! It was a long and intense process that took us the whole day. So, bright and early (well, almost—our friends’ van had a bit of trouble starting 🤒), we met Marie-Paule and David from L’Apprentie Sucrière at their sugar bush. We were deep in the forest, far from roads and houses, with no electricity, no running water, and no cell service. There were nine of us coming from Montreal, and trust me, we were just enough to take on the challenge of making our own maple syrup!

The day begins in the forest, in the mud and fallen leaves, among the maple trees. We start by “running the maples” to collect the maple sap. We go around the 150 tapped trees on the property to gather their sap. Some trees have produced a lot, others a bit less. And it depends on the type of maple tree.

David has two types of maple trees in his sugar bush: the sugar maple, which produces a lot of sap and yields very sweet sap, and the red maple, which produces less sap and slightly less sweet sap. To make our own maple syrup, we will mix the sap from both types of trees. To collect the sap, David uses a traditional method: each tree is tapped with a single incision, into which a spout is inserted. Then, a bucket is hung from each spout to collect the sap as it slowly flows out. Some of them are quite full!

And of course, we eagerly taste the maple water, which is very clear and has a very slightly sweet flavor. It’s a promising start for our syrup! The sugaring-off season is coming to an end, and we are the last group of the season. So we collect every last drop and carry several full buckets back to the L’Apprentie Sucrière sugar shack. This small rustic cabin, built by Marie-Paule and David in the heart of their sugar bush, has no electricity and no running water. But it contains all the tools needed to make maple syrup… the traditional way!

More than 350 liters! That’s the amount of maple sap we collect. But don’t worry, 350 liters of maple sap does not mean 350 liters of maple syrup at the end. Unfortunately 😆! We first pour the freshly collected maple sap into a large elevated tank that filters it, removing all impurities such as fallen leaves and insects.

From there, the maple sap flows directly into the “boiler,” or evaporator, heated over a wood fire, where it is slowly and continuously boiled. It is this slow concentration process that develops the characteristic flavor of maple syrup. The more you heat sugar, the more it caramelizes and develops its aromas. For our part, we have the whole day to heat the maple sap and turn it into syrup. After a few explanations and demonstrations, Marie-Paule steps away and leaves us in charge of the sugar shack. The quality of our future maple syrup is now in our hands!

So we spend the day taking turns chopping wood…

…to feed the evaporator, which consumes a huge amount of wood! It must be kept at a very high temperature so that the boiling never slows down. The heat inside is unbearable. And it needs to be fed roughly every 10 minutes!

It’s a relentless and exhausting cycle! The evaporator is extremely wood-hungry. To feed it every 10 minutes, we constantly have to produce small logs. We had even brought board games to pass the time—yeah right! We spend the whole day chopping wood and feeding the evaporator at a frantic pace. And meanwhile, the maple sap keeps steadily evaporating. The cabin fills with water vapor, and it becomes extremely hot inside. Above all, a sweet aroma spreads through the air—very promising. It’s enough to make our mouths water!

Since there are nine of us, we do have the luxury of rotating through all the tasks. When our syrup starts to thicken, we take a small amount and boil it over a wood stove for several long minutes. From there, we’re able to make our own maple taffy on snow, which is delicious! We pour the hot syrup, now nicely thickened, over the snow, where it hardens on contact with the cold. From there, we can roll it onto a stick to make a lollipop! Then we vigorously whip the remaining syrup to turn it into… maple butter, absolutely delicious on pancakes 😋.

At the end of the day, Marie-Paule reappears. She inspects our maple sap, which has thickened into a rich, syrupy consistency. Our maple syrup is born! Marie-Paule pours the mixture into a new pot fitted with a felt filter. This helps remove any small impurities. Then it’s time for bottling!

As a result, from the 350 liters of maple sap we collected in the morning, we finally end up with nearly 9 liters of maple syrup! 9 liters! A great production! Each of us leaves with a large jar of maple syrup. That’s going to make a lot of pancakes! 😁 We also take home a jar of filtered maple water, which is much lighter in color than the syrup. We tried it during the afternoon, and it works particularly well with a bit of… rum!

Making your own maple syrup the traditional way is a more intense activity than we expected! However, we had a wonderful day and highly recommend coming to experience the rustic adventure with David and Marie-Paule at L’Apprentie Sucrière!

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How do you get back to reality after a two-and-a-half-year road trip along the Pan-American Highway, from Alaska to Ushuaia? Overnight, after more than two years living on the road in our expedition Jeep, we had to return to a more conventional lifestyle. Get back into a routine, return to work, become sedentary again, and relearn how to live in an apartment. It was hard to give up our daily life filled with adventure, discoveries, encounters, wide-open spaces, and nature. Hard to accept that our dream was over. That we had to move forward and find new goals, new projects. That this incredible journey was now behind us, like an unbelievable dream that, as time passes, seems increasingly unreal.

Fortunately, after more than two years of living in a Jeep and a rooftop tent, exposed to the elements, we desperately needed comfort. And it’s this, more than anything else, that helped us ease back into normal life. Because in the end, life feels simple and sweet when you have unlimited water and electricity, access to a (hot!) shower and a toilet, and a fully equipped kitchen. Life in an apartment is so easy! But does all this comfort outweigh the adventures we experienced? Not so sure.

The aftermath of this long journey was a strong desire to stay at home, warm and cozy, watching the rain and then the snow fall outside. After these two years on the road, we rested. Truly rested. We enjoyed the comfort we had regained and needed a few weeks to process everything we had experienced. But winter in Canada is a season we love! So we used our weekends to go on little adventures, on our own or with friends. And winter in Quebec is always an adventure!

Hiking with Friends in the Snow

It had been several years since we last experienced a Quebec winter. Before the trip, we enjoyed winter camping. Our record? A night in the rooftop tent at -30°C! Maybe we’ll do it again someday, but not this winter! We’ve had more than our share of cold over the past two years. Nevertheless, it was with great pleasure that we returned hiking with friends in the snow, on snowshoes or crampons, through the woods and on frozen lakes.

The Quebec Winter Carnival

The Quebec Winter Carnival is THE event of the year in Quebec. Every February, it sets the streets of Quebec City alight for 10 days, offering activities, games, entertainment, competitions, and parades for all ages. And the colder it is, the better the Carnival! Because the Carnival is also a way to celebrate winter and make the most of it, whatever the temperature. So we spent the weekend at the Carnival with friends, in particularly freezing temperatures ❄️.

Games and Entertainment at the Quebec Winter Carnival

There’s no secret to staying warm when it’s freezing, you have to keep moving! And there’s no shortage of things to do at the Carnival: a giant Ferris wheel with a live DJ, an ice slide, maple taffy on snow, hammer throwing, concerts and dancing, ice sculpting, and a castle made of ice. The bonfires installed here and there quickly became our favorite spots to warm our toes and noses!

Snow Sculpture

The Carnival hosts a snow sculpture competition. With saws, ice picks, and chainsaws, the sculptures slowly come to life over the weekend! Indeed, it takes several days of work to transform a giant block of packed snow into a beautiful sculpture.

Night Parade

At nightfall, it’s time for the parade. And what a parade! It’s -17°C, but the entire city seems to have gathered on the main street. The wait is long before the parade starts. We bounce in place to stay warm, but our feet quickly go numb. Still, the cold is soon forgotten when the first floats appear. For an hour, they parade past with music, dancing, orchestras, and live performances. It’s magical!

Activities Around the Château Frontenac

The Carnival is also a chance for us to rediscover the city of Quebec, which we really love. We wander through the historic center in search of the city’s best poutine. Because honestly, nothing warms you up like a good poutine! Our stroll naturally takes us to the stunning Château Frontenac, which overlooks the St. Lawrence River and Old Quebec. For the Carnival, rappelling is organized down the front of the Château! The view from up there must be incredible!

Ice Canoe Race

Ice canoeing was once a key way to travel across the St. Lawrence River. Today, it’s a competitive sport! The canoe race is the biggest event of the Quebec Winter Carnival. Around 11 a.m., crowds gather on the riverbanks. On one side: Quebec. On the other: Lévis. In between, the 1.5-kilometer-wide St. Lawrence, with its icy waters and drifting chunks of ice.

The goal of the race? Paddle from Quebec to Lévis as fast as possible—and back again, not once, but three times—alternating between paddling through open water and running or pulling the canoe across ice floes. Racers have to choose the best path by spotting navigable channels and avoiding the largest ice blocks. It’s an extremely physical sport that immediately earns our admiration!

Snowstorms!

Winter in Montréal also brought one of the biggest snowstorms of the past 50 years. Two back-to-back storms, one on Thursday, one on Sunday, buried Montreal under 70 centimeters of snow! All that snow gave Jeepy a funny look! And yes, if you’re wondering what happened to our trusty expedition Jeep which took us all the way to Ushuaia, it’s doing great! We removed all its expedition gear, and it spent the winter hibernating on the street just below our place.

Mont Sutton

One of our favorite winter getaways! Just two hours from Montréal, Mont Sutton gets tons of snow each year and is known for its beautiful snow ghosts. As we hike through the woods on the Round Top Trail, the snow is fresh and deep. It’s magnificent. However, the temperature is icy: -25°C.

From the Round Top, the view of the snow-covered mountains is breathtaking, even through the mist. After the climb warmed us up, we devour our half-frozen sandwiches.

Winter flew by—and we already can’t wait to re-equip the Jeep and head out for a few camping weekends, to feel, just for a little while, like we’re back on the road again!

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The greatest freedom of traveling with your own vehicle is discovering wild, remote places and being able to set up camp there for a night… or longer, if it feels right! Being alone in the middle of nowhere. Turning a wild spot into your little “home.” Enjoying nature. Camping for free in the most beautiful places across the Americas. A road trip with your own vehicle means being free and self-sufficient. Having everything you need to camp out in the wild. And with that comes the incredible privilege of being able to stay where other tourists have to head back to their hotels at the end of the day. So, what are our most beautiful wild camps on the Pan-American Highway?

During our two-and-a-half-year road trip along the Pan-American Highway, we camped wild countless times. In every country we crossed, from Canada to Argentina, through El Salvador, Colombia, and Nicaragua. Between dreamy beaches, mountains, wind-swept plains, deserts, and tropical jungles, each country offered us incredible campsites. And every time, we felt incredibly lucky to call a little piece of the world “home,” even if just for a night, on the other side of the world.

And for the perfect wild campsites along the Pan-American Highway, what better than a rooftop tent? When nature is calm and silent, when the landscape is vast and stunning, when the weather is mild and the view takes your breath away, the rooftop tent is the ultimate choice. It allowed us to live in harmony with nature, to fully enjoy peaceful and gentle moments, to listen to the sounds of the night and feel the cool breeze softly rustling the canvas. What better feeling than sleeping with the windows open, soaking in the atmosphere of the place? And when the sun sets on the horizon, when the silence of night takes over, and you know there’s no one else for miles around, that’s when the magic truly happens.

So, after more than two years of road-tripping from Alaska to Patagonia (and from Patagonia back to Alaska), we’re excited to share with you the most beautiful wild camps on the Pan-American Highway!

Camping in the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia

Sleeping in the Salar de Uyuni, what an incredible experience! If we had to choose one of our most beautiful wild campsites along the Pan-American Highway, it would undoubtedly be our night in the Salar de Uyuni. On December 30th, after crossing part of the salt flats, we set up camp in the heart of the salt desert. Far from any civilization, so remote that we even took a shower at the back of the Jeep. The evening was warm, bathed in the glow of the setting sun. We spent the night in the profound silence of nature. A simply magical evening followed by a sun-drenched morning that we will always remember.

Camping at the edge of a canyon in the United States

The White Rim is the 4×4 trail that crosses the incredible Canyonlands National Park. It plunges into the heart of the American West, through landscapes straight out of a Western: deep canyons, whimsical rock formations, and arid desert. It’s long and technical, so we did it in two days. This way, we had the immense privilege of camping in Canyonlands Park (permit required!). Alone in the canyon, facing a breathtaking landscape, we spent a peaceful night in our rooftop tent, lulled by the profound silence of the place. As a bonus, we had an incredible starry sky.

Camping on a paradise beach in Costa Rica

Alright, let’s be honest, we’ve found many stunning wild camps on the Pan-American Highway, including paradise beaches in Central America 🌴. But to pick the most beautiful, let’s talk about Zapotillal Beach on the Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica. A bumpy, flooded track leads to a deserted beach. Our Jeep allows us to drive on the sand and set up camp away from it all. With the wheels in the sand, the rooftop tent unfolded facing the Pacific Ocean. A stunning sunset as the backdrop, crabs running between our bare feet. Swimming at any time of the day -and night- and nights with all windows open, lulled by the waves. In short, an incredible campsite we stayed at… well, we lost track of how many nights we spent there! 😁

Wild campsite in the heart of the American West

The Moab region in Utah is an overlanding paradise. We’ve passed through several times, and each time, we’ve found dream campsites. That evening, a 4×4 trail led us to a breathtaking view with the Colorado River deep down in the canyon. We decided: tonight, we’ll camp in the heart of the American West! Utah, in the middle of July, 38°C (100°F) in the shade, a blazing sun. There, completely alone, we took a refreshing shower facing the view, then ate dinner facing the view, did the dishes facing the view, brushed our teeth facing the view, watched the stunning sunset, and spent the last moments of daylight outside… facing the view. In short, an incredible landscape, a warm evening, and a gentle night… facing the view.

Camping in a riverbed in Alaska

Riverbeds are always among the most beautiful campsites we’ve had. And in Alaska, there are plenty of them! Near the small fishing port of Seward, on the stunning Kenai Peninsula, lies one of our favorite camping spots in Alaska. However, it’s a very well-known place among travelers. You have to be willing to venture a bit further along the river to find a more secluded spot. We spent several nights there, both on the way up and again on our return, when we came back to Alaska two years later. Whether with friends around a campfire or just the two of us, we always had wonderful evenings.

Camping at the southernmost point in the world in Patagonia

Ah, there are wild campsites along the Pan-American Highway that stand out more than others. And this one is undoubtedly a memorable one. At the southernmost tip of Argentina, beyond Ushuaia, there’s a track that leads to the southernmost point in the world accessible by road. That’s where we camped, in the hostile and wild lands of Patagonia. And because it was such a memorable milestone on our Pan-American journey, we popped open the champagne and toasted, facing the ocean! Then, to celebrate, we plunged into the Antarctic Ocean for a freezing but unforgettable swim. A campsite in Patagonia that will remain etched in our memories… and in our hearts.

Wild campsite with flamingos in the Sud Lípez region of Bolivia

The Sud Lípez is, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful regions in the Americas. Full of colors, textures, colorful lagoons, vicuñas, and flamingos, we spent a week exploring its rugged and dusty tracks. Camping in the Sud Lípez with complete autonomy is an incredible privilege, knowing that most tourists come on organized tours and only pass through. For days, we strung together dream campsites where we were completely alone in the world. The most beautiful, however, was probably the one we spent facing the Cañapa Lagoon. The weather was pleasant, the wind had – somewhat – calmed down, everything was peaceful, and there was no one else around except for dozens of flamingos fishing in the lagoon. We spent the evening and night lulled by their clucking, and we loved it!

Wild campsite facing the Pacific Ocean in Chile

Watching dolphins from the campsite? A dream! Chiloé Island in Chile is a wild land at the end of the world, where camping in nature is easy to do. In fact, several times, we camped by the beach, facing the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. While cooking or freshening up, we spent the evening and then the morning watching for dolphins that come to fish near the coast, sometimes very close to the shore! What an immense privilege to be able to camp facing the ocean!

Camping facing the mountains of the Great North in the Yukon

Is there a more beautiful place on Earth than the Great North of the Americas? Not sure! We fell in love with the Yukon and Alaska, vast and wild territories where Nature still reigns supreme. Up there, where there are so few dwellings, so few humans, and so few towns and villages, it’s easy to find incredible places to camp. Just explore a bit, take that small track off the main road, do a little off-roading, avoid the bears and moose that inhabit the area, and bam: a dream campsite at the end of the trail! This time, it was in the beautiful Kluane National Park in the Yukon.

Bonus: Our Worst Campsite on the Pan-American Highway

The reality of a road trip lasting over two years is that not every night is magical. Sometimes, what seems like a perfect evening can quickly turn into a nightmare. We spent a very hot evening beneath the coconut trees, ending with a final swim in the warm Caribbean waters. As the sun set, night fell on our beach. Everything seemed perfect for a peaceful night by the waves. But we hadn’t counted on the black flies—tiny biting insects that attacked relentlessly and managed to sneak through the mosquito net. The result: dozens of bites and a sleepless, suffocating night in the Caribbean humidity.

We spent 847 nights on the road. So when it comes to wild camps on the Pan-American Highway, we could name dozens! And without a doubt, even if comfort in a Jeep is pretty basic, this kind of setup, with a rooftop tent, is in our opinion the best way to fully enjoy wild camping in the heart of nature.

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The more explosive they are, the louder they roar, the more threatening they appear, the more beautiful they seem! Volcanoes have always fascinated us. So, during our two-and-a-half-year journey from Canada to Argentina, whenever a volcano was on our route, we absolutely had to take a closer look. Between exhausting ascents, deafening rumbles, columns of smoke, impressive eruptions, and lava lakes, the volcanoes of the Americas offered us spectacles we won’t soon forget. This is the very personal list of our 11 most beautiful volcanoes of the americas

1 – The Santa María Volcano, Guatemala

The hike to the viewpoint of Santa María is well earned! We left the village at night and walked in the darkness for several hours. But in the end, the effort was worth it. The Santa María was particularly active when we were there: an eruption every 45 minutes or so. And what eruptions! A thick cloud of smoke escapes from the crater before the deafening sound of the explosion reaches our ears. Exceptional!

The complete story of our ascent of Santa María is here!

2 – The Fuego Volcano, Guatemala

The Fuego is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. To observe it up close, we took a two-day, one-night excursion on the neighboring volcano, Acatenango. After a day of climbing, we reached the base camp, from where the view of Fuego is breathtaking. There, we watched in awe and fascination as clouds of smoke regularly escaped from the Fuego crater, followed by jets of lava once night fell. A breathtaking spectacle that we will never forget.

The complete story of our crazy excursion to the Fuego volcano is here!

3 – The Santa Ana Volcano, El Salvador

All the beauty of the Santa Ana volcano is revealed after a 1.5-hour ascent on a very easy trail, with a mandatory guide! At the bottom of its vast crater lies one of the most acidic lakes in the world. Its bright electric blue color is particularly hypnotizing.

The complete story of our day at the Santa Ana volcano is here!

4 – The San Cristóbal Volcano, Nicaragua

Among all the volcanoes we climbed during our journey through the Americas, San Cristóbal, the second-highest volcano in Nicaragua, was undoubtedly one of the most challenging ascents: only 3 kilometers but with a 1,000-meter elevation gain, through deep and slippery volcanic ash. A real nightmare! But at the summit, we were rewarded with an especially impressive view of the smoking crater and the deep rumbling of San Cristóbal, a very active volcano.

The full story of our grueling ascent of San Cristóbal volcano is here!

5 – The Telica Volcano, Nicaragua

To admire the Telica, we were able to drive up to the base of the volcano with the Jeep, on an extremely muddy and challenging track. From there, only an hour of hiking remained to reach the crater’s rim. And at the top, a breathtaking sight awaited us: the edge of Telica is jagged and plunges steeply into unknown depths. The acrid smell of sulfur stings our eyes and throat, while the continuous, deep rumbling echoes in our ears. A terrifying spectacle that gave us chills!

The full account of our ascent of the magnificent Telica volcano is here!

6 – The Cerro Negro Volcano, Nicaragua

A perfectly rounded dome, an ancient lava flow, sharp volcanic rock, and fumaroles—the Cerro Negro is undeniably a volcano… and a beautiful one at that! The ascent to the summit is relatively easy, and from up there, the view over the lava flow and the valley is breathtaking. But the most fun part? Sledding down the volcano! Yes, you read that right—sledding. A hilarious yet thrilling experience, as the slope is steep and you quickly pick up speed.

The full story of our sledding descent of Cerro Negro is here!

7 – The Masaya Volcano, Nicaragua

To admire the Masaya, no exhausting ascent is needed. You simply drive up to the crater on a nice paved road. As a result, there are plenty of people! And it was at the Masaya Volcano that we saw lava for the first time! Indeed, at nightfall, you just have to lean in a little to see, at the bottom of the crater, a lava lake. Impressive!

The complete story of the Masaya volcano is here!

8 – Poás Volcano, Costa Rica

The Poás is one of the most active volcanoes in Costa Rica. What makes it so special is its crater! It houses one of the most acidic lakes in the world, a lake that is up to 50 meters deep. Access is very easy: just a 10-minute walk from the parking lot. From up there, the view, on a clear day, is breathtaking over the valley.

The full story of the Poás volcano is here!

9 – The Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador

Of all the volcanoes we saw during the trip, Cotopaxi is the most majestic. Its perfect cone, covered with eternal ice and snow, rises to 5,897 meters above sea level. It is the highest active volcano in Ecuador, but also in the world. And indeed, its crater continuously emits smoke! When we were there, the ascent to the summit was prohibited, but we still made it (twice!) to the refuge, located at 4,864 meters on the slopes of the volcano, and then to the glacier, at 5,066 meters.

The full story of our adventures in the magnificent Cotopaxi National Park is here!

10 – The Chimborazo Volcano, Ecuador

At 6,263 meters above sea level, the imposing Chimborazo is the highest peak in Ecuador. Because it is located very close to the equator, and the Earth bulges at this level more than at the poles, the summit of Chimborazo is the farthest point from the center of the Earth, and also the closest point on Earth to the Sun! We didn’t attempt the summit, which is an expedition in itself, but we still ascended to admire the Chimborazo up close, reaching 5,100 meters in altitude. This marked our altitude record at the time… and a rather eventful night at high altitude!

The full story of our adventures at Chimborazo is here!

11 – The Villarica Volcano, Chile

 By day, the Villarica volcano is majestic, with its blanket of snow and the spiral of smoke rising from its crater. But it is at night that this volcano reveals its full splendor. As the day fades, the Villarrica’s smoke cloud takes on a glowing red hue. It’s breathtaking. The volcano is surrounded by a reddish glow from the lava in the crater, reflecting in the smoke and clouds. The beauty of Mother Nature in all its splendor, power, and danger.

Full story of our time at Villarica is here!

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