United States, Alaska – Hiking in Whittier

Lakes, snow-capped peaks, glaciers, incredible views, and even snow! We take advantage of the good weather and the return of the sun on the Kenai Peninsula and in Whittier to hike and experience Alaska as we love it.

Saturday, August 31^st, 2024

A wonderful surprise awaits us upon waking: the sun! ☀️ It has been rare lately in Alaska, so we make the most of it. We enjoy breakfast in the sunshine—it's warm and pleasant. Then, we decide to take advantage of this unexpected and fleeting good weather to explore the area, focusing on the inland parts of the Kenai Peninsula. We’re already familiar with its charming Alaskan fishing ports, such as Seward, with its impressive Exit Glacier, and Homer, with its lovely fishing harbor, but we know less about the peninsula’s interior. It’s an expansive area protected by the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge on one side and the Kenai Wilderness on the other.

🥾 Skilak Lookout Trail – 6,76 kms, 270 m D+

We take the Jeep to reach the trailhead, located 5 kilometers away. But by the time we get there, the weather has already changed, and we set off on the trail under cloudy skies.

The trail is muddy from the recent rains. In the mud, we can clearly see the footprints left by hikers before us, as well as paw prints from dogs and… bears! We stay alert as we climb up the mountain. The bear spray is within reach, and we make noise around the blind turns of the trail. But we reach the summit without encountering anyone—neither bears nor humans. And we can fully enjoy the view.

Back at the Jeep, we hit the road to find a nice spot to spend the night. However, it’s a long holiday weekend in the United States, and all the best riverside spots are taken. After some unsuccessful searching, we finally stop in the middle of the woods. It’s dark, cold, and damp. We spend the evening inside, listening to the rain, but we’re lucky enough to catch sight of a coyote passing in front of the Jeep.

Sunday, September 1^st

In the morning, it’s still dark, cold, and damp in the woods. But looking up, we notice patches of blue sky peeking through the treetops. Could it really be sunny outside our little forest? We step out to check, and sure enough, the sky is perfectly clear! Excited, we start brainstorming how to make the most of this beautiful weather. After some deliberation, we decide to head to Whittier. We know this small Alaskan port well, having visited it two years ago. A unique feature of Whittier is that to get there, you must pass through a 4 km-long tunnel. It’s a single-lane tunnel shared by both directions of traffic and the train, so passage alternates and follows a set schedule. We drive through the tunnel in 20 minutes and emerge on the other side of the mountain, in Whittier.

🥾 Blackstone Bay Vista – 10 kms, 844 m D+

Two years ago, we hiked to the incredible Portage Glacier. This time, we’ve chosen a longer and more challenging trail that promises breathtaking views. And indeed, within the first hour of hiking, we’re rewarded with a stunning elevated view of Whittier’s harbor, surrounded by mountains and glaciers. The deep blue bay below is dotted with fishing and tourist boats, creating a picture-perfect scene.

After the first hour of hiking, alternating between wooden walkways and muddy sections, the real challenge begins. The trail climbs steeply along the mountain. Some sections are particularly rugged, with loose rocks shifting underfoot and creating small rockslides. We quickly gain altitude, and the higher we climb, the more stunning the view becomes!

Soon, as we climb higher, snow-capped peaks and distant glaciers come into view. We cross several summits, each time thinking we've reached the end. But no, behind the first peak hides a second, and so on, for three long hours of hiking.

Finally, with one last push, a final climb, we reach the top of the mountain. At last, we see what lies beyond. On the other side is the stunning Blackstone Bay, where several glaciers flow into the water. The scenery is breathtaking, wild, and untouched. No roads, no hiking trails, no human constructions—just pure, pristine Nature, vast and unspoiled, as only Alaska can offer.

We stay for a while at the summit, admiring the view and soaking in the vastness. We feel alone in the world, facing these beautiful yet inaccessible landscapes. In the distance, we can make out the vast Prince William Sound and its wild islands, an essential part of the Gulf of Alaska. Whales, orcas, porpoises, sea lions, and glaciers: we visited Prince William Sound during an unforgettable boat excursion in Valdez.

We then begin the laborious descent back to Whittier. There, we find the sun again. We take a relaxing break at the salmon river. They’re there by the hundreds, just like the fishermen. In fact, there are so many salmon that the fishermen are selective. They only fish for the biggest ones!

Then we head to the viewpoint overlooking Whittier Bay. Camping is now prohibited there. However, it was here, two years ago, that we were woken up by a black bear standing against the Jeep! A great memory! 😂

We then make a short stop at the Whittier harbor, very charming, like all the fishing ports in Alaska. Fun fact about this little village at the end of the world: there are no houses in Whittier. In fact, 75% of Whittier's roughly 270 residents live in the 14-story building near the harbor! It is also in this building that the village's public services are located.

In the late afternoon, we leave Whittier through its tunnel and settle for the night by a lake. The weather is still nice, and we enjoy the sunshine throughout the evening. Tonight, it's a special dinner: we're cooking the halibut fillet we bought a few days ago in Homer! The menu: halibut fillets with small vegetables cooked in parchment, accompanied by homemade mashed potatoes. Delicious 😋

Monday, September 2^nd

After 8 days spent on the Kenai Peninsula, it’s time for us to leave this place that we love so much. Just like the first time we came here, we’ve once again fallen for this wild and beautiful part of Alaska. We leave it as we did two years ago: hoping to return one day!

We spend the day in Anchorage, visiting the downtown area while shopping for souvenirs in search of a cap. We already have a Ushuaia cap, but now we need an Alaska cap! Later on the road, we take the cheapest shower we've found in the United States: $2.50 per person for an unlimited shower! Pure luxury. Then we head out to camp by the Knik River, on the river's pebble beach. The evening is rainy, but a brief, unexpected break in the clouds gives us the most beautiful sight: a stunning rainbow!

After a few relaxing days on the beautiful Kenai Peninsula, it's time for us to hit the road again. Several days of dirt roads and highways await as we cross Alaska and leave the state through its northernmost border. It’s an opportunity for us to travel the same routes we took a month ago when we arrived and see how drastically the landscapes have already changed. Winter is coming in Alaska! 🍁