États-Unis, Alaska – Fjords et ruée vers l’or à Skagway

Skagway, the starting point of the Klondike Gold Rush, where thousands of prospectors arrived to chase their American dream. Today, it's no longer gold seekers who flock in, but... cruise ship tourists! White Pass Trail, historic buildings, breathtaking nature, fjords, and ferry crossings in Skagway!

Friday, August 2^nd, 2024

To reach Alaska from Whitehorse, we pass through Carcross. The Carcross Desert, which we hiked two years ago, beckons to us, but we have other plans for the day. We still make a quick stop to grab a coffee in the small Carcross community, where the art of the First Nations adorns the houses and shops. The atmosphere is pleasant, and we sip our coffee in the sun while chatting with some curious Americans about our journey.

C’est avec une météo incroyable que nous prenons la route de la frontière et de Skagway. On passe par White Pass. Ce col de montagne relie Skagway, en Alaska à Bennett, une ville fantôme du Canada. L’histoire de cette route est passionnante. En effet, c’était une des principales voies utilisées par les prospecteurs d’or en route vers Dawson City, au moment de la ruée vers l’or du Klondike, de 1896 à 1899. Elle était considérée comme plus longue mais moins escarpée que l’autre route, la piste Chilkoot. Mais elle était plus dangereuse en raison du nombre de crimes qui y étaient perpétués pour voler l’or. Le White Pass Trail est aussi connu sous le nom de Dead Horse Trail, car environ 3 000 chevaux moururent pendant la ruée vers l’or ! Aujourd’hui, la route est particulièrement scénique !

In 1900, a railway was completed, significantly easing the journey for prospectors. It ended at Lake Bennett, where they would purchase or build a boat to navigate down the Yukon River and reach the Klondike goldfields near Dawson City. Today, the train is purely for tourism, transporting hordes of tourists from cruise ships docked in Skagway up to the pass.

After crossing the pass, we enter Alaska 😎. We pass through the border, a simple formality, and then the road gently descends towards Skagway.

At the entrance to the town, a black bear casually crosses the road in front of us. Bears in town? Yep, we’re definitely in Alaska! 😅 Skagway is a small town with less than 1,000 inhabitants, nestled at the end of a fjord. In the local indigenous language, Skagway means "windy city." For now, we’re lucky: blue skies and plenty of sunshine! With its buildings reminiscent of the glorious past of the gold rush, which briefly boosted the region, Skagway reminds us of Dawson City... but less preserved in its original state and more touristy! We’re really surprised by the hustle and bustle in town. Where did all these people come from?

La réponse nous saute aux yeux dans le port de la ville : trois (3 !) énormes bateaux de croisière sont amarrés dans la baie. Quel monde pour une ville qui doit être si calme d’habitude et carrément déserte en hiver ! C’est donc au milieu de la foule que l’on part à la découverte du centre-ville. Boutiques de souvenirs vendant toutes sortes d’objets à l’effigie de Skagway et de l’Alaska. Bijouteries vendant des bijoux d’or et de pierres précieuses et même des pépites d’or. Restaurants proposant de l’halibut (flétan). Musées retraçant l’histoire de la région et exhibant d’authentiques défenses de mammouth ! 

Despite the crowd, we enjoy strolling through the lively streets of the town and window shopping. However, our budget doesn’t allow us to splurge—like getting a $30 fish and chips 😅. So, we settle for a fresh pan con tomate, enjoyed right in a parking lot.

In the late afternoon, we leave the bustle of the city behind to return to the tranquility of nature. Strangely, there are fewer people here! We make a detour to the old village cemetery, where prospectors who came seeking glory and riches in this remote part of the world rest. Some succumbed to the harshness of the Northern winters, others were killed in conflicts with the First Nations, and yet another was accidentally blown up by dynamite!

Next, we head to the river! We hope to find a free camping spot, away from the exorbitant prices of Skagway’s campgrounds and the frenzy of the city.

We ultimately find our happiness by the river. A spot just as we like it in Alaska: a riverbed, a pebble beach, the icy river, and snow-capped mountains in the background. What more could we ask for? In these moments, there’s no doubt that we were right to make all those miles from Houston just to return… to Alaska!

Saturday, August 3^rd

After a very peaceful night, we head out to explore the surroundings. The trail takes us into the valley, where we discover a breathtaking landscape.

And, as often in Alaska, wildlife is on display!

To leave Skagway, the only route is the White Pass, which we took to get here. Or… the ferry! That’s the option we chose. While waiting for departure time, we go for a short hike that offers us an elevated view of the city and the port, where the cruise ships have changed since yesterday.

At noon, we head to the dock. The departure is in 2 hours, which gives us plenty of time to cook at the back of the Jeep. Or so we thought, but we hadn’t counted on the curious Americans who come over to chat. Those Americans are always so friendly!

At 2 p.m., the ferry arrives, and we are allowed to board. Off we go for a one-hour cruise through the fjords of Alaska!

After an hour of crossing, the Haines dock comes into view. We disembark in the late afternoon, the perfect time to head to the salmon river and hope to see bears fishing! 🤞