Who says Alaska, says Denali National Park. It’s simply impossible to come to Alaska without trying to see the North America’s highest peak, which rises to 6,190 meters (20,310 feet) in the Alaska Range. Needless to say, we won’t be summiting it! But seeing it, even from a distance, would already be a magical moment. Denali means “the high one” in Koyukon, an Athabaskan language. Until 2015, it was called Mount McKinley, before it officially reclaimed its Indigenous name.
Wednesday, July 21, 2022
It’s the aptly named Denali Highway that brings us to Denali National Park late in the morning. And unbelievably, it’s sunny! The park is immense, more than 24,500 square kilometers (9,500 square miles). However, to protect the flora and fauna, only the first 24 kilometers (15 miles) are accessible by car. Beyond that, you need to hop on a bus.
Since the good weather won’t last, we head straight to Mile 12, the first spot where Mount Denali can be seen. We are immediately blown away by the landscapes: they are stunning in both beauty and scale. The taiga, a vast stretch of low vegetation dotted with conifers, stretches out endlessly. At the foot of the mountains, whose bald peaks dominate the view, lies the tundra, a vast and desolate expanse made of shrubs, moss, and lichen. Among this preserved and protected immensity, it is possible to see caribou, grizzlies, moose, lynx, wolves, bighorn sheep, and many other mammals. So yes, our eyes are wide open. From the first few kilometers, there is no doubt: we already know that we will love Denali National Park.
One of our favorite things about national parks (besides the views) is just driving around! The roads are always smooth and beautiful, and we enjoy them even more knowing that here, the road is short! If we want to go any further, Jeepy will have to stay behind and we will have to take the bus.
And there it is! Through a few clouds, the mighty Denali reveals itself, inaccessible and majestic. Its highest peak, the North Summit, rises to 6,190 meters. It’s said to be one of the hardest mountains to climb, partly because of its geographic location, just 400 kilometers (250 miles) south of the Arctic Circle (where we were a few days ago on the Dempster Highway!). We are incredibly lucky as the clouds quickly hide the view. This will be the only time it’s visible today, and we had front-row seats.
Despite its vastness, the park has few marked hiking trails. Here, backcountry rules, you can head off in any direction, whether for a day hike or a multi-day trek. Rangers even offer wilderness survival training, because Alaska’s nature and wildlife are no joke. We are very tempted by this wild and untamed landscape, by the idea of getting lost in it for a few days, but we are not equipped for a trek. So we stick to short walks on the trails, admiring the incredible landscapes.
In the late afternoon, we visit the park’s sled dog kennel. About thirty Alaskan Huskies are barking or napping. Right now, they are on vacation! But in winter, they crisscross the park to help rangers maintain hiking trails and bridges or transport scientists through the park.
The five one-month-old puppies are absolutely adorable! I beg Rémi to adopt one, but he refuses. “Where would we even put it?” he says. Pff. We get to see a demonstration: the puppies are brought out in front of the public, and the rangers make them sniff some food. The goal is to teach them that there’s a tasty reward if they run toward it. The rangers release the puppies and shake a bag of kibble to get them to chase it. It’s chaos! Clumsy on their little legs, they scatter in all directions. Their personalities quickly emerge: the fearless ones run after the kibble bag, the indecisive ones trot around in all directions wagging their tails, the timid ones remain frozen in place, all trembling. We can already guess who the future team leaders will be.
In the evening, a windstorm hits. We camp near the park, sheltered among the trees, and spend the evening inside the Jeep, swaying with every gust of wind. Feels like we might get seasick! 😂
Thursday, July 21
With cloudy weather in the forecast, we hesitate to spend $60 USD for a bus tour into Denali National Park. Especially since the original 145-kilometer (90-mile) route has been cut down to 65 kilometers (40 miles) due to an impassable landslide. Ultimately, we decide to go for it. The 15 miles we saw by car left us wanting more. And evenif we probably won’t be able to see Mount Denali due to the clouds, we will still be able to admire the park’s magnificent landscapes. Our persistence pays off, thanks to a last-minute cancellation, we manage to grab seats on the noon bus. Perfect!
We set off on a two-hour ride along the park’s only road. Our driver is talkative, he shares stories about the park’s creation and its wildlife and gives us a few tips. If anyone spots something interesting, like an animal or an amazing view, they have to yell “STOP!” and indicate the direction, with 12 o’clock being straight ahead and 6 o’clock behind. Because, as he says, if someone yells “Bear, bear, bear!” we will all just shout back “Where? Where? Where?” 😂
His system works! After just a few minutes: “Caribou! 5 o’clock!” The driver pulls over. Indeed, a caribou is grazing near the road. Very practical, this technique! It’s basically what I do all the time while Rémi is driving, except now I’ve got 30 pairs of eyes helping me 😅
Of course, the downside of a bus ride is you can’t stop wherever you want. It’s tough to take good landscape shots through the window. But wow, what a landscape! The taiga has given way to tundra, which stretches to the base of the Alaska Range, dominated by Mount Denali (hidden today by thick clouds). It’s absolutely breathtaking.
After more than two hours on a very well-maintained dirt road (Jeepy would have loved it!), we reach the end of the route. The bus turns around, but we decide to get off and walk the last 4.8 kilometers (3 miles) to the landslide that cut the road. The trail climbs through jaw-dropping scenery. Mountains stretch out endlessly in every direction.. And we spot a grizzly bear!
The landslide is impressive. According to the rangers, it will take 3 to 4 years to rebuild the road, the time to secure funding and prepare the work. It’s a shame we can’t go any further, but that’s just how it is.
We wait about 30 minutes for the next bus. Then we ride back with a new driver and a new group. Our patience pays off again, we see an entire herd of Dall sheep perched high on a mountaintop.
It’s 7 p.m. by the time we return to the visitor center. What a journey! We loved every second of that bus ride through Denali National Park. Sure, it’s a bit pricey and a little restrictive, but it’s clearly the best way to minimize human impact on the park’s wildlife and environment. Not to mention the pollution it helps avoid! In the evening, we stop in Healy to pick up some takeout Thai food, then return to our campsite from the night before. Thankfully, the wind has died down and we get a better night’s sleep.
We leave Denali National Park with stars in our eyes and memories we will never forget. We’ve never seen such vastness, such breathtaking and unspoiled nature, wild and harsh, but so beautiful. Alaska in all its glory, just as we imagined. Sure, we wish we had seen more of Mount Denali up close, and for longer. But that’s nature, you take what it gives. Maybe we will have the chance to see it on the road to Anchorage, before it disappears behind us for good?
