Colombia – Tayrona National Park, Colombia's most beautiful park?

What to do in Colombia? According to all the guides, Tayrona National Park is a must-see in the country! With its white sand beaches, turquoise waters, coral reefs, mangroves and wildlife, Tayrona Park is ranked among Colombia's most beautiful national parks! So, is that true? We set out to hike in the park and discover its wonders!

Saturday, August 19^th, 2023

After three weeks break for the vehicle shipping from Panama to Colombia, we're happy to reunite with the Jeep and excited to hit the road again for new adventures in South America. But... the truth behind the dream: after two weeks in a comfortable and air-conditioned apartment, the return to the Jeep Life isn't without its challenges. We spend our first wild night in Colombia on the beach, near deserted palapas. The suffocating heat, the howling wind all night, dogs barking, humidity in the tent. The night is rough, and we wake up particularly tired. That's when we realize we need to readjust to "rough" living.

Our exploration of Colombia begins with the Caribbean coast in the northern part of the country. For two days, we travel along the coastline on splendid (toll) roads that take us over vast marsh areas. When we approach Tayrona National Park, we leave the main road and navigate a rugged path. We cross a river, then a stream.

And we arrive at Baranquero, a little corner of paradise run by... Bruno and Laurence, a French couple! After several years in Africa, they chose Colombia to open a hostel. Former adventurers themselves, they don't offer camping but still keep a small piece of land to accommodate passing overland travelers. We settle in the heights of their property, with a magnificent view on the forest! Perfect 😊

Sunday, August 20^th

Before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, the region was inhabited by the Tairona tribe. This civilization notably constructed the near site of the Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City), accessible after a 5-day trek. The indigenous peoples who inhabit the region today are considered the descendants (and survivors, as the majority were slaughtered by the conquistadors) of these ancestral tribes. The national park is part of their ancestral territory. Many sacred sites, off-limits to tourists, can be found here. Three times a year, for 2 weeks each time, the park closes to allow these communities to practice their rituals and ceremonies and preserve their culture. Tayrona National Park, it seems, is THE park of Colombia. We reach the entrance on foot, following the river from the hostel, a warm-up of about a kilometer before getting into the serious stuff.

At the park entrance, we have to wait for 45 minutes in the middle of a big crowd! It's also time to dig into the wallet. The entrance fee is extremely expensive: 73,500 COP (16.60 €) per person. It feels like we're back in Costa Rica! You also need to pay for insurance at 6,000 COP per person! Oh, and there's also the bus at 5,000 COP per person. Okay, it's starting to add up 😤. It's morning, we're motivated, so we decide to skip the bus and walk the 5 kilometers on the road that lead to the hiking trailhead. Let's go, without getting run over! Which is a real challenge, because the buses zoom by without any concern for our presence. Well, at least we get to see several families of howler monkeys, and that's always a delight!

One hour of walking later, we arrive at the trailhead. And this time, there's a crowd, freshly disembarked from the shuttles. Another 5 kilometers await us to reach the famous paradise-like beaches of Tayrona National Park. Fortunately, there are viewpoints along the trail that keep us motivated!

After two hours of walking under unbearable heat, we finally reach the first beach on our route: Arrecifes Beach. The water there is particularly beautiful. The beach is bordered by imposing granite rocks. We've been dreaming of this moment for 10 kilometers, and it's finally here: the long-awaited time for a swim!

The place is magnificent, but our hike isn't over yet. We continue along the trail towards the next beach: La Piscina. Its name comes from the fact that a coral barrier and rocks completely enclose the beach. The waters within the "pool" are quite calm as a result.

I opt for a nap in the shade of the trees on the beach, while Rémi motivates himself for an additional 20-minute walk towards the last beach on our route: Cabo San Juan. It's the most popular of them all! If we thought there were a lot of people on the first two beaches, it's nothing compared to the crowd that has taken over Cabo San Juan Beach on this long holiday weekend!

After an hour spent relaxing and resting by the La Piscina Beach, we start heading back. And who do we run into on the trail? Richard and Aude, our roommates from Cartagena! So funny! This time, it's really the last time we'll see them because we're going in opposite directions. For the return journey, we opt for the shuttle, which takes us 5 minutes to cover what took us 1 hour to walk on the way there! As a reward for this long day of hiking in the sweltering heat, we dine at the hostel's restaurant. For dessert, we order a sublime passion fruit crumble. An absolute delight! 😋

Monday, August 21^st

We spend the morning at the campground, enjoying the facilities (the shower!), chatting with Bruno and Laurence, and cooling off in the river.

Then we hit the road! We stop in a village to enjoy a local meal: a delicious soup as an appetizer, a chicken/meat dish with rice, beans, and plantains, along with a beverage, all for 30,000 COP for both of us, which is around 7.30 €. After that, we head to Palomino. This vast beach is known to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Colombia. Well, we probably don't have the same definition of what is a beautiful beach! The entire beach is developed and lined with restaurants, hostels, and beach clubs. But whether it's in Colombia or elsewhere, JP still attracts attention! 😁

Anyway, we move on after taking a few photos. Heading north to embark on a grand adventure in the beautiful yet formidable Guajira Peninsula, located at the northernmost tip of Colombia.