Volcanoes and their ever-changing nature. Between the seemingly peaceful Llaima Volcano and the dangerous Villarrica, the spectacle couldn’t be more different! Once again, Nature has treated us to a breathtaking show that we won’t forget anytime soon.
Thursday, February 8, 2024
Chile is huge! From Radal Siete Tazas National Park, we embark on another full day of driving, covering 450 kilometers in one go. The next day, we arrive at the entrance of Conguillío National Park. Here, the star of the park is a volcano: Llaima, which rises to 3,125 meters in altitude. But to admire this majestic volcano, we have to pay $13 per person. And for two days in the park with one night of camping, the total comes to a staggering $82 🤑! At that price, we decide to stay for just one day. It’s really frustrating to have to pay so much just to enjoy nature.
Fortunately, we quickly discover that Conguillío National Park is a true wonder, which makes up for the steep price! The Llaima volcano stands majestically at the center of its lava field. With its snow-capped summit and perfect cone, it is simply stunning. We drive through the lava field, which dates back to the volcano’s last major eruption in 2008.
All around the volcano lies a dense, lush forest. It almost feels like Canada! As the park’s trail leads us through the woods, we half-expect a black bear to suddenly appear in front of us. A hike then takes us to higher ground, offering an incredible view of Conguillío Lagoon, the snow-capped mountains, and the vast forest. We also spot our first araucarias—magnificent pine trees that have given their name to this region of Chile, Araucanía. They are also the country’s national tree!
A little more effort, and we reach the summit. From here, the view is breathtaking: the Llaima volcano appears to be peacefully dormant. Further in the distance, Villarrica volcano occasionally releases a puff of smoke. It’s simply magnificent!
Next stop in Conguillío National Park: the stunning Truful Truful waterfall. The place is spectacular, especially when a small ray of sunlight manages to break through the clouds and illuminate the landscape.
At the end of the afternoon, we settle in for the night just outside the park, well hidden among the trees. We don’t want any overzealous rangers kicking us out again! The lava flow from the Llaima volcano stops just next to our bivouac—a beautiful wild spot, just the way we like it. 😊
Friday, February 9
The night was once again freezing. Only when the sun starts warming the tent do we finally venture outside. We then hit the road toward the town of Villarrica, situated by Lake Villarrica and at the foot of… the Villarrica Volcano! The place looks like a charming seaside resort… except it’s by a lake! The summer season is in full swing, and there are plenty of people around. We wander from craft market to craft market, soaking up the “seaside” vibe. The Villarrica Volcano dominates the town with its 2,874 meters of altitude. Smoke regularly rises from its crater: it’s one of the most active volcanoes on the continent and one of the three largest volcanoes in the Andes! Its last eruption occurred in 2015, leading to the evacuation of thousands of people.
We have breakfast in a small restaurant and once again indulge in “el menú del día.” However, the prices here aren’t quite the same as in neighboring countries: $6.50 per person for just one dish! It’s a far cry from the Colombian menu at $2.50 for soup, a main course, and a drink… While strolling through town, we stop by a travel agency. Our love for volcanoes is stronger than anything: we’d love to climb Villarrica. We find out, though, that the volcano is on alert, and a 1-kilometer safety perimeter has been established around the crater. Bummer! They still offer us the ascent, but at $130 per person, it’s a steep price just to get a distant view of the crater! We decide to pass, but we still make our way to Villarrica National Park to get a closer look at the giant.
By day, the Villarrica volcano spews a thick plume of whitish smoke. But when night falls, the show changes and becomes far more spectacular!
Since we missed the major eruption of Acatenango in Guatemala, this is the first time a volcano has given us such a show. The beauty of Mother Nature in all its splendor, power, and danger. As the day fades, the Villarrica’s smoke plume takes on a glowing reddish hue. It’s breathtaking. The volcano is haloed by a reddish glow from the lava in the crater reflecting off the smoke and clouds. Alone in front of the volcano, in a deserted parking lot at the foot of the giant, we can hardly tear our eyes away from such a sight. It’s both apocalyptic and mesmerizing. It’s incredible how, after over 20 months of travel, Nature can still leave us in awe at moments when we least expect it.
That night, Nature doesn’t unleash itself only through the volcano. From our viewpoint, we are surrounded by violent storms. Lightning streaks across the sky, and between watching the glowing volcano and the flashing bolts, it’s hard to choose! After several hours of observing, the storms seem to be rolling in from the valley. We decide not to stay here, feeling too exposed. So, we move down a few meters to find refuge on a more sheltered spot. The night is punctuated by thunderous roars. At times, we wonder if it’s still the storm raging or if it’s the Villarrica waking up… In the end, it’s not humans who gave us the greatest fears during the journey, but Nature! ⛈️🌋
