Our Jeep road trip across the United States brings us back to Arizona for the second time. A few weeks ago, we explored Arizona’s iconic landmarks: Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon, the Grand Canyon, and we even had the incredible luck of being selected in the lottery to visit The Wave. This time, we leave the classic routes of the American West behind to continue our Arizona road trip off the beaten path, far from the ever-popular Grand Canyon. Because yes, despite its nickname as the “Grand Canyon State,” Arizona is full of lesser-known yet equally fascinating landscapes. We head toward the northeast of the state to discover preserved places where nature, history, and Navajo culture come together: from the stunning Canyon de Chelly to the exploration of Petrified Forest National Park and its millennia-old trees.

Visiting Canyon de Chelly: immersion in Navajo territory

Our road trip through Colorado in winter introduced us to lesser-known places like the incredible Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Mesa Verde National Park. But we also had to deal with snow and freezing temperatures. So we’re not unhappy to find milder weather again in Arizona. We begin our off-the-beaten-path Arizona road trip in the northern part of the state with a visit to Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

Friday, October 28, 2022

We are in the heart of a Navajo reservation in Arizona. Stray dogs and cattle roam the roads, and all roadside areas are fenced off. Whenever there is an opening in the fence, it leads to private land. Finding a wild camping spot was therefore quite difficult. We eventually ended up at the campground of Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Technically, the night costs $20. But we arrived after the gate had closed. And this morning, we don’t have any cash to pay. The ranger, slightly frustrated but without a card machine, lets us go. It’s 3°C, but the sun is shining brightly. The day is off to a great start! We head out to explore Canyon de Chelly. At this hour, the road is empty, and we enjoy the viewpoints without meeting anyone—except for one very furry local resident!

Canyon de Chelly National Monument lies on ancestral Navajo lands. Even today, some families still live at the bottom of the canyon, just like their ancestors before them. They live from farming and livestock. It is therefore not possible to enter the canyon without a Navajo guide. Here as well, like in Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado, we find the ruins of ancient Pueblo villages tucked into the canyon alcoves. They were inhabited until the late 1300s.

Visiting an old trading post at Hubbell Trading Post

Canyon de Chelly may not be the most beautiful or the most impressive of American canyons, but we still stop at every viewpoint to see it from all angles, from the South Rim to the North Rim. At midday, after a bit of driving, we stop at Hubbell Trading Post for a picnic. We eat outside in the sun, which feels amazing! A trading post is a historic commercial site between Native Americans and settlers. This one dates back to 1878. Even today, you can buy Native American crafts here. A handmade vase can cost around $600! A bit out of our budget 😅

We then camp in the middle of the desert near the small canyon of the Little Colorado River. It is so warm that we can finally wear T-shirts! Such a treat after the freezing days in Colorado 😊 Since we just gained an hour thanks to the time change, we take advantage of the late afternoon to do a quick cleanup, wash the stove, prepare tomorrow’s lunch, and do the dishes. What a pleasure! In recent days, all the everyday tasks of life on the road had been neglected because it was far too cold to stay outside for long!

Saturday, October 29

Heading south eventually pays off! We wake up under a bright sun and relatively mild temperatures for this early hour. The morning goes by quickly with Jeep tidying, airing out the bedding and pillows, breakfast, and dishes. Around 10 a.m., we hit the road to visit Petrified Forest National Park.

Petrified Forest National Park: a 220-million-year-old forest

What to see in Petrified Forest National Park?

Our visit to Petrified Forest National Park takes a full day. We explore the main highlights of the park through short hikes, scenic viewpoints, and a panoramic road. It is a relatively unknown national park in Arizona, off the beaten path and therefore very uncrowded.

Visiting the museum at the visitor center

As soon as we arrive, we stop at the Rainbow Forest Visitor Center. It’s a must for us whenever we visit a national park in the United States. We pick up a park map and get some advice from the rangers. Inside, we spend a few minutes exploring the Rainbow Forest Museum. It’s a great opportunity to learn more about the park, its history, and the fascinating story of the petrified trees. There are also exhibits on paleontology and the geological history of the area.

A very, very long time ago, the hot and dry Arizona desert did not yet exist. If we stood in the same place around 220 million years ago, we would be in a tropical jungle on the banks of a river! At that time, there was only one supercontinent, Pangaea, and present-day Arizona was located just above the Equator, where Costa Rica is today. The petrified trees scattered across the ground, along with numerous plant fossils, are evidence of the lush forest that once covered this region. These fossilized trunks date back to the Triassic period, before the Jurassic era. In other words, these trees were already fossilized 135 million years before the T-Rex roamed the Earth! Mind-blowing numbers. Archaeologists have found—and continue to find—countless plant fossils and skeletons of some of the earliest dinosaurs in the park.

Admiring the fossilized trees of Petrified Forest National Park

The main attraction of Petrified Forest is, of course, the petrified trees. They are everywhere, right around the visitor center. The Rainbow Forest area is one of the most spectacular places in the park to admire these fossilized trunks. No need for long hikes: just walking around the visitor center already reveals impressive specimens.

These fossilized trees are fascinating. They are now completely rock-like, yet you can still recognize the shape of the tree, even the grain and bark, which have turned into stone. When they died millions of years ago, the trees were buried under layers of sediment rich in silica, which slowly replaced the organic material over time. Some trunks have retained their original colors, while others have crystallized into quartz!

Hiking in Petrified Forest National Park

There are many hiking trails in Petrified Forest National Park, starting directly from the visitor center. We chose the Giant Logs Trail loop, an easy paved path that allows close-up views of impressive fossils.

We are intrigued by the fossilized rock blocks we see on the ground. They look like they were cut by humans. Of course, that is not the case! Quartz, over time, naturally fractures. These cracks run perpendicular through the tree because it is the shortest path. Through repeated cracking and breaking, the trees end up resembling neatly cut logs. Several colors can be seen in these petrified trunks. White, sometimes shiny, is pure quartz. Red and orange tones indicate the presence of iron in the quartz.

Scenic drive and viewpoints

The scenic drive through Petrified Forest National Park offers access to several viewpoints. Beyond the fossils, it is especially an opportunity to admire the park’s arid landscapes and badlands.

Blue Mesa hiking trail

This 1.6 km loop trail allows visitors to discover Blue Mesa, a fascinating area of badlands shaped by erosion over millions of years. Here as well, numerous petrified trunks are scattered across the ground.

Newspaper Rock and Puerco Pueblo

There are also petroglyphs at Petrified Forest National Park! Although much younger than the surrounding petrified trees, the oldest date back 2,000 years. They were carved here by ancestral Pueblo peoples who lived in the region over 600 years ago. Newspaper Rock is a rock wall covered with more than 650 petroglyphs. These depict human figures, animals, and mysterious symbols, remnants of an ancient culture. To this day, they remain a true mystery for researchers, who still struggle to interpret them. Watch out for a few intruders in the mix 😂

Admiring The Painted Desert

The park’s scenic drive takes us to the northern section of the park. From the roadside viewpoint, we discover the Painted Desert area, a beautiful landscape of badlands. These colorful hills have been sculpted by erosion over thousands of years.

Painted Desert Inn museum

At the park exit, this adobe building catches our attention. It once served as a hotel for Route 66 travelers. Today, it is a museum telling the history of the region. We simply admire the building from the outside before getting back on the road.

We leave Petrified Forest National Park in the afternoon, amazed by this unique natural site in Arizona, famous for its millions-of-years-old fossilized forests. This visit to Petrified Forest National Park allowed us to dive into a fascinating geological history and discover one of the most extraordinary landscapes in the American Southwest. We continue east toward a lesser-known U.S. state in hopes of finding warmer weather. Spoiler alert: not only do we succeed on the weather front (🥳), but we are also completely won over by our discovery of New Mexico, a vastly underrated state in our opinion, with ancient petroglyphs, lava fields, and Breaking Bad filming locations.

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It’s been over a month since we arrived in the U.S., and we’ve already discovered some truly iconic places: Alaska, Yellowstone, Monument Valley, Colorado, Antelope Canyon. And it’s not over yet! We’re now about to discover three of the most famous and iconic places in the American West: the Grand Canyon, Route 66, and Las Vegas—all in the same day!

Saturday, October 8, 2022

It’s hard to come back to reality after the beauty of our hike to The Wave. We’re still dazzled by the natural wonders we’ve just witnessed. But it’s time to keep moving—next stop: Las Vegas, a world completely opposite to the one we’ve just experienced. We can’t afford to waste time, as many miles lie ahead. Before reaching Vegas, though, we want to make one last stop in nature. After all, to us, it offers the most beautiful wonders. And speaking of wonders, we’re about to discover a very impressive—and vast—one!

Before getting there, we drive for three hours under an increasingly threatening sky, then through a violent storm. When we finally arrive at the most famous national park in the United States, it’s raining and very cold! After the desert heat, it feels like a thermal shock. We stop at the first viewpoint along the way to admire the Grand Canyon for the first time. It truly lives up to its name: it’s big. Immense. Gigantic. And incredibly beautiful—even in the rain!

Tonight is Mom’s last camping night. Tomorrow, she’ll finally enjoy the comfort of a hotel room (and so will we!). In the meantime, even though it’s the coldest evening we’ve had in the past 10 days, we make the most of it. We cook our signature dish—burritos—and enjoy them by the campfire. Then we finish the meal by roasting marshmallows. A wonderful evening that beautifully wraps up these 10 days of camping! 😊

Sunday, October 9

Today is a big day. We need to be in Las Vegas by late afternoon, which is 450 kilometers from the Grand Canyon. But there’s no way we’re leaving without admiring the canyon from every angle. By 8 a.m., we’re already up and ready to go. We stop at several viewpoints, each one more breathtaking and impressive than the last.

Vegas is waiting for us, and we can’t afford to linger. Rémi and I will come back to the Grand Canyon to explore it more deeply, but for now, we need to hit the road. After two hours of driving, we leave the highway for a country road. We keep driving through the desert. After a while, Mom starts getting impatient: “Where is this Route 66!?” But Mom—we’ve been driving on it for over an hour already!! 😅 Far from what we imagined, this stretch of Route 66 is just another road: long, straight, and monotonous. But in every village we pass through, the mythical Route 66 atmosphere is very much alive: vintage signs, old gas pumps, classic cars, and old shops. Sure, it’s all staged for tourists—but it’s still pretty cool!

We arrive in Las Vegas at 4 p.m. after a 5-hour drive. In the outskirts of the city, we return our trusty rental car. Our hotel is about 20 minutes from the agency. I hide in the back of the Jeep among all our belongings, while Mom sits in the front with Rémi. Definitely not the time to run into the police! We’ve booked two nights at the Rio, a massive hotel-casino not far from the Strip, Las Vegas’ main boulevard. The entrance is directly through the casino. The atmosphere hits immediately: the noise of countless machines, the music, the cigarette smoke (since smoking is allowed indoors), and there are even slot machines built into the bar so you can drink and play at the same time. A whole different world!

We’re quickly disappointed, though, as we have to wait 2 hours in line to get our room keys. Not cool at all, Rio! To make up for it, we’re given a room with a better view… So off we go to the fifteenth floor for a very large, slightly outdated room overlooking downtown Vegas. First thing to do: turn off the air conditioning—it’s freezing in here! After a quick shower, we head out on foot to the Strip!

It’s 9 p.m. The atmosphere is electric. We walk past Caesars Palace, one of the largest hotel-casinos in the city. Across the street: the famous Bellagio! We barely have time to admire its illuminated façade before the Bellagio fountains burst to life to the sound of Michael Jackson. What an atmosphere!

The Las Vegas Strip means crowds, noise, lights, and nonstop entertainment. For the past five months, we’ve been immersed in nature, exploring some of the wildest and most remote places in North America. Tonight, Las Vegas is a shock. There’s too much of everything—too many people, too much noise, too many lights and activity. It’s overwhelming for the eyes and the ears. What a world! What madness!

We then sit down facing the Bellagio to eat at a Mexican restaurant. But we’re not in Vegas just to admire the Bellagio fountains. Well… not only! Indeed, it’s impossible to visit Las Vegas without trying your luck at the slot machines! When it comes to casinos, we’re spoiled for choice, but there’s no hesitation—we head into the Bellagio. After passing through the luxury shopping gallery, the enormous casino opens up before us. We’re a bit impressed. Poker, blackjack, roulette, craps… As for us, we’ll go for the slot machines!

We first watch the players to understand how the machines work. Mom has a well-tested strategy: spot a player who seems to be betting and playing a lot for a long time, wait for them to leave, then take their seat! 😏 So we observe the players around us. Eventually, we give it a try. We play—and lose everything! 🤑 Looks like all our luck disappeared with The Wave lottery! But what a thrill—and what style—to have played at the legendary Bellagio! Mom still leaves with two small tickets worth just a few cents, stamped Bellagio, as souvenirs!

Back in the hotel room, it’s already 2 a.m., but we pop the champagne to celebrate—not our casino jackpot, but these 10 days filled with adventure! 🍾🍾🍾

Monday, October 10

The night was short, but very good! We love the Jeep, where we always sleep really well, but sleeping peacefully between four walls, in a real bed, is a comfort we had almost forgotten. And because of that, we enjoy it even more.

It’s 9 a.m. when we leave the hotel to head back to the Strip. By day, the atmosphere is different, but not that much. There’s still that same wild energy, that sense of excess, that luxury. Casinos are still packed with players. Streets are still crowded. And the Bellagio fountains keep bursting regularly with a thunderous roar. It’s scorching hot. We wander through this very American city, surrounded by the biggest brands: Coca-Cola, M&M’s, Hard Rock, McDonald’s, Nike, Adidas, Barbie. Not to mention luxury brands: Dior, Guerlain, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci. All these storefronts lure us into the game of (mass) consumption, encouraging us to spend more and more without thinking.

We just soak up the atmosphere of Las Vegas. We pass through New York, with its Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, the Chrysler Building, and even a roller coaster!

Just before noon, we start getting hungry! We look for a brunch spot, but hey—we’re in the States, not Berlin! 😅 That is, until we come across the giant Shake Shack sign! I turn to Rémi—no need, he spotted it before I did! No words needed, this is where we’re eating. It’s an upgraded fast-food chain. The last time we went was in 2017 in New York (the real one)! Rémi is thrilled, and honestly, it’s really good!

After lunch, we keep strolling along the Strip. We pass through three major cities—Rome, Venice, and Paris—all without taking a plane! And we admire some of the most famous casinos in Las Vegas: Caesars Palace, the Mirage, the Venetian, the Palazzo.

At 2 p.m., we’re back at the Rio. Just enough time for a quick shower and to call a taxi, and we’re on our way to the airport to drop off my mom. What a trip!

My dear mom, what a joy it was to share these few days with you in the American West. The American West—what a dream! I loved discovering these iconic landscapes, but I loved even more discovering them with you! The majestic arches, glorious sunrises, American canyons, Monument Valley, the Colorado, the Grand Canyon, Route 66, Las Vegas! What a dream! And none of it would have been the same without the camping adventure. Hotels are nice, but comfort and daily showers… honestly, overrated!

What made our adventure so magical were the evenings in the dark cooking in the middle of nature, your “savanna snake” technique to climb into the Jeep, your fear of heights when getting into the rooftop tent, the chairs that refuse to unfold without a proper fight, the headlamps that keep disappearing, the starry sky as we eat dinner, the campfire to keep warm, breakfasts in parking lots or in front of stunning landscapes, glorious sunny mornings, and meals inside the car when it rains.

In short, that’s camping. Nothing is simple, everything has to be planned, thought through, calculated. Everything takes more time and effort. But that’s exactly what makes our trip so special! Because if everything were as easy as a hotel room in Vegas, it wouldn’t be nearly as fun! Thank you for embracing our way of life for a few days and loving every second of it! So many beautiful, unforgettable memories 😘

Rémi and I head back to the hotel for a second night, just the two of us. Tonight, no casino, no Strip. We spend a refreshing hour at the hotel pool, order Chinese food, and spend the evening in our room. We have a lot of catching up to do—and a lot of rest to get!

Tuesday, October 11

Until the very end, we enjoy all the comfort our room at the Rio has to offer. We linger in bed, watch the sun rise over the city, enjoy the couch and ottomans, and take one last shower. It had been five months since we’d experienced this level of comfort, and yet after just two days, it’s already hard to leave it behind and return to our life on the road. You get used to comfort quickly… The Jeep is waiting for us in the parking lot. Since it’s too tall for underground garages, it spent two days under the blazing sun! Safe to say, it got hot—very hot! Before leaving the city, we head to the famous Las Vegas sign.

Then, we treat ourselves to one last thrill: we drive down the Las Vegas Strip! How cool is that! It’s also a chance to realize that we hadn’t even walked half of it.

We leave Las Vegas to return to nature, not without relief. Did we enjoy Vegas? Far from it! This festive and over-the-top atmosphere, which attracts all the vices and misery of society, felt overwhelming—almost decadent. The last word on Vegas goes to Rémi, in the car taking us away: “It really is a strange city.” We will come back in six weeks anyway to catch our flight to France! Yes, we are heading back to France for two weeks to take a break from our trip, spend time with our loved ones, and renew our U.S. visa. In the meantime, we have six weeks to do a big loop through the American West. And that’s worth more than all the couches in the world 😀 Next up is another iconic stop on a U.S. road trip: Bryce Canyon National Park!

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It seems impossible to describe the beauty of The Wave in words. Its lines, curves, shapes, and colors—every detail is etched in our minds, but even more so in our hearts. There is no doubt that this natural wonder will remain one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen in the world.

Thursday, October 6, 2022

When Nature is so beautiful and fragile that it must be protected at all costs. And that cost is luck. Incredible luck, almost unfair. The luck of the lottery. Every day, hundreds of people hope to visit The Wave. But every day, only 20 permits are given out. 20 permits. What are the odds? That evening, however, the miracle arrives in the form of a simple automated email. “Congratulations! You were successful in the Coyote Buttes North Daily Lottery!” On the first try. Without even believing it. As I said, sometimes luck is almost unfair.

Friday, October 7

After discovering Antelope Canyon, we arrive early in Kanab to pick up our precious ticket. It comes in the form of a piece of paper to attach to the backpack. But the ticket isn’t enough: we also have to attend a desert survival training. Venomous desert snakes, tarantulas, extreme weather, risk of dehydration, heatstroke. We are advised to carry 4 liters of water per person. How can you tell if a snake is venomous? Assume they all are!

There’s also orientation training, because to reach The Wave, there are no trails or signs. We are given a few photos of the route with brief descriptions. The landmarks to follow are natural features, like striking rock formations. No joking around! Fortunately, Rémi reminds us he scored 20/20 on the orientation test in high school. We’re counting on him 😜

Saturday, October 8

Our permit is clearly attached to Rémi’s backpack. We sign the register at the start of the hike. We have plenty of water, hats, sunglasses, sunscreen. Yet, when we start hiking at 8 a.m., it’s still quite cool. But as the sun rises higher and higher in the sky, we shed our layers one by one.

From the very first steps, hesitation. Rémi, map in hand, recommends continuing along the river. Mom and I think we should turn right immediately. We inspect the map, the photos, the brief description. Finally, we go with Rémi’s advice. After all, he scored 20/20 in orientation in high school! 😁

The desert is vast, hot, and dry. We are alone. As expected, there’s nothing to guide us. We walk sometimes on crumbly rock, sometimes on soft, fine sand. All around us, as far as the eye can see, the landscape is breathtaking in its harshness. Sculpted over millennia by wind, rain, sand, and water, the rock formations rising toward the sky leave us in awe. We walk like this for 2 hours and 30 minutes, under a heat that grows ever more intense.

Finally, we are here. After a long climb through loose sand, we slip between two hills. And there it is. Shy, impressed, admiring, and amazed, we step into The Wave.

It’s another world. A masterpiece shaped by nature, more beautiful than anything humans can create, whose beauty needs no words. A world of grace, made of harmonious lines and curves sculpted by erosion since the Jurassic era. What beauty! Alone in the middle of The Wave, we realize more than ever how lucky we are to be here, today, all together.

We were instructed not to step in the puddles scattered across The Wave. These puddles are home to very rare and fragile prehistoric shrimp. Curious, we approached them in search of these delicate shrimp from an ancient world. And there they were! They are actually tadpole shrimp thriving in the rainwater pools. How did they end up in these fully enclosed puddles? We have no idea!

We spent several hours taking photos and admiring every corner of The Wave. There is no doubt that this place will forever be etched in our memories, yet we still want to capture these magical moments. The Wave isn’t very large, but it is full of nooks, canyons, and corridors, each more beautiful than the last. Rémi is hard at work while my mom and I wander between the curves of the wave.

We then go for a walk beyond The Wave. Indeed, out there in the desert, there are other curiosities to discover. There is even a second, secret wave, which you have to search for and find on your own. We walk over the millennia-old rock formations, which sometimes take on funny shapes. All around us, the desert offers varied and incredible landscapes, far from the sand dunes we had imagined.

On the way back, as we trudge through burning sand under a scorching heat, we realize our luck. We crossed paths with about twenty people. What an incredible chance to have been part of it! Halfway through, we meet two rangers, accompanied by the sheriff! They ask to see our permit and check that we are properly registered. Luckily we are! The fine is $100,000 for anyone tempted to come here without a permit, along with a prison sentence! Americans take this seriously: The Wave is a fragile treasure that must be protected.

They check that everything is in order, then make sure we are not in trouble, that we haven’t seen anyone suffering, and that we have enough water for the return trip. When they learn that we got our permit on the first try, they can hardly believe it! “You have to go to Vegas!”, exclaims the sheriff.

Sheriff, it’s planned 😉 And starting tomorrow!

I can’t end this article without warmly thanking Rémi, without whom my mom and I would still be wandering in the desert, wondering if “The rock pyramid” is that rock formation over there on the right or the one on the left, and laboriously trying to convert 2 miles into kilometers to better estimate the distance to cover. My little heart, your 20/20 in orientation at the baccalaureate, which was the running gag of the day, was well deserved, no doubt about it!

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We hesitated. A lot. About going to Antelope Canyon. Too expensive. Too touristy. But can you really discover the American West without stopping there? In the end, after going back and forth so many times, we gave in—my mom’s visit definitely helped. There was no way we could let her miss such a majestic place in the United States. So we splurged, accepted joining the crowds of tourists, and stepped into this incredibly mysterious sanctuary.

Thursday, October 6, 2022

After our visit to Monument Valley, we head to Antelope Canyon. Since our tour is scheduled for 11:45 a.m., we have the morning free to enjoy. So we set off to explore Lake Powell, which straddles the border between Utah and Arizona.

Lake Powell is a man-made reservoir created on the Colorado River by the Glen Canyon Dam. We want to get as close as possible to the shoreline—and by car, since it’s allowed and we’re a bit on the lazy side 😁 The problem is, there’s a good chance we’d get stuck if we drove our rental car onto the sand. So we decide to take just the Jeep… which only has two seats! No big deal, I climb in the back. Lying comfortably on the bed, I get tossed around as the Jeep makes its way down the steep sandy track toward the lake. Rémi is the only one brave enough to dip his feet in! And apparently, the water’s nice!

Speaking of the Glen Canyon Dam, here it is! We make a quick stop, but there’s no time to linger since we’re running late for our Antelope Canyon tour.

As requested in our reservation, we arrive at the Antelope Canyon visitor center 45 minutes before the tour. The agency’s building is spacious and brand new—but there are no restrooms! You have to use the disgusting porta-potties in the parking lot. A funny “oversight.” Naturally, being good French, we grumble: at those ticket prices, restrooms are the least they could provide! Indeed, to have the privilege of visiting Antelope Canyon, we spent a small fortune: $200. And that’s just for the Lower Canyon.

Because Antelope Canyon is actually two canyons: the Upper Canyon, the more popular one, where the light beams are the most dazzling; and the Lower Canyon, less popular because it’s less spectacular. In recent years, prices have skyrocketed. When we were planning our trip two years earlier, it cost around $40 to visit the Upper Canyon—compared to $120 today. We paid $50 (plus taxes) per person for the Lower Canyon! As we stepped into the canyon, we wondered if this exorbitant price was really worth it…

Antelope Canyon belongs to the Navajo people. The rules are strict: no bags allowed unless they’re transparent (who actually owns a transparent bag!? 🤨), no photos on the canyon’s stairs and ladders, you must stay with the guide, and most importantly, no taking off your mask—even for photos! That last rule leaves the fifty or so tourists with us a bit annoyed. We’re then split into groups of ten. And off we go.

To enter the canyon, you have to descend a very steep metal staircase that leads into the canyon’s narrow slit—the tight entrance to the interior. From there, the magic happens: we step into another dimension. A world defined by tall, narrow walls. The floor is made of fine, silky sand. Up above, through the narrow opening, we can sometimes glimpse the blue sky. Daylight, and sometimes even beams of sunlight, filter into the canyon, casting a magical glow. How beautiful it is! How magical! And how mesmerizing!

Antelope Canyon is a “slot canyon”. It was formed by water flowing through the soft rock here, sandstone. Slot canyons are very deep and narrow. So watch out for flash floods! Less than four days ago, the canyon we’re in was completely underwater, submerged by the torrential rains that fell. They even reshaped the canyon entirely! In 1997, 13 people lost their lives here, swept away by a sudden flood. Luckily today, there’s no rain—just bright sunshine, illuminating the canyon walls with an incredible orange glow.

We’re pretty bad students: the moment the guide turns his back or disappears ahead of the group into the canyon’s twists and turns, we quickly pull off our masks to smile at the camera. Some of us are more apprehensive than others! Especially when the Japanese couple in our group gets sharply scolded by the guide for being caught in the act of mask removal! That says it all: it’s better not to get caught! And for that, we’re pretty skilled 😏 Even if it results in slightly funny photos, with eyes full of worry and slightly forced smiles, we keep our masks close at hand to put back on quickly if the guide suddenly appears 😂 In those moments, our whispered conversations go something like: “He’s gone, quick, photo!” “Are you sure?” “Watch out!” “Careful, he’s back!”

Our guide grumbles because we’re not moving fast enough for his taste. Luckily, my mom has a trick up her sleeve: “I don’t speak English, I don’t understand!” she says with her very French accent whenever he urges us to move. Proud of her tactic, she quickly comes back down to earth when the guide exclaims in French: “Avancez, s’il vous plaît!” Ah, the magic of tourist spots! 😂 After a while, relief for everyone in the group: he allows us to take off our masks for photos! Apparently, his company decided that beyond a certain point, it was no longer necessary. We don’t quite understand the logic, but we’re happy! He even takes some photos of us himself!

After 400 meters, we climb back toward the canyon’s exit using a ladder. We emerge into the blazing sun through the canyon slit—which we hadn’t even noticed on the way in, when we passed by it to reach the entrance! We leave Antelope Canyon with stars in our eyes and unforgettable memories. Once again, we’ve had the incredible privilege of witnessing an amazing natural spectacle 😍

No time to fully take in one wonder before we set off to discover another! After a picnic where we couldn’t stop reliving that incredible experience, and a quick stop at the local Walmart to get back down to earth, we head to Horseshoe Bend. After a two-kilometer walk under the scorching heat, we find ourselves in front of a stunning curve of the Colorado River, carved deep into its canyon. Absolutely breathtaking!

After all these thrills and discoveries, we set off for a two-hour drive. We set up camp near the town of Kanab. In the evening, while quietly cooking curry rice, we get amazing news: we’ve been selected for the permit to hike the iconic Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park. We had applied that very morning. What a stroke of luck!! 🥳 It wasn’t a given, as this is a very popular hike and few are chosen. Tomorrow, we’ll set out early for Zion National Park and Angel’s Landing, the trail known as the most dangerous in the United States. A thrilling challenge ahead… and probably a few scares!

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Here we are, the three of us—my mom, Rémi, and I—awed by the iconic landscapes of the American West at Monument Valley. We know them, yet we’re seeing them for the first time! Immersion in the land of Native Americans, cowboys, Lucky Luke, and classic westerns.

Tuesday, October 4, 2022

After the incredible Canyonlands National Park, we head to Valley of the Gods! The Valley of the Gods is a 27-kilometer scenic road. A road, or rather a track! Rémi, at the wheel of the Jeep, speeds along the rocky trail, before remembering that we’re slowly trailing behind in our rental car, a small Toyota Corolla. We move cautiously, far behind the Jeep’s dust cloud. Definitely not the time to break anything! I’m driving, and I’m not used to worrying about every little rock—usually, I just soar over the road! But no matter, we’re ready to have our minds blown 😎

The track winds through the valley carved in sandstone, among tall, beautiful reddish rock formations. There are buttes, mesas, towers, and mushroom-shaped rocks. Focused on the road without forgetting to admire the scenery, we’re amazed and keep stopping for photos and to take in the landscape.

As we go further along the track, I gain confidence. The Toyota is holding up well and follows the Jeep through the trickiest sections. However, our low ground clearance makes every bump tense! Several times, the undercarriage scrapes the ground. Ouch. The dried riverbeds are the hardest obstacles to cross. Inevitably, we end up stuck in the sand. “Am I stuck here, right?” I ask my mom, making us laugh. She goes out to check.

Indeed, the front of the car is beached in the sand! Reverse. Toward the end of the track, we reach the trickiest passage. This time, Rémi gets out of the Jeep to guide me. But again, the rut is too deep and the car too low. The front bumper sinks into the sand. Rémi assesses the situation with his expert eye. Then: “Well, first, Nathalie should get out.” More laughter 😂😂 My mom, feigning outrage, gets out of the car. After a few delicate maneuvers, we manage to get through the rut without damage.

Around noon, we pull over on the side of the trail to have lunch. We enjoy our roasted chicken and tabbouleh while facing a breathtaking landscape, right in the heart of the Valley of the Gods. So cool! 😎 How lucky we are to be here, surrounded by such extraordinary scenery! The more beautiful the landscape, the more we realize it.

After three hours of perilous track, we return safely to the main road. Jeepy had a blast, and our rental car emerges unscathed. Perfect. To finish our visit to the Valley of the Gods, we climb a bit for some altitude. After a few dizzying switchbacks along the cliff, we’re finally at the top of the canyon! Stunning!

We are finally on our way to Monument Valley! Excitement is building. But there’s so much to see in this part of Utah that we make several stops: our first stop is at Gooseneck to admire the meanders of the San Juan River at the bottom of its canyon. “Gooseneck” means exactly that—“goose neck”—in reference to the river’s bends.

Next, we stop for a photo of Mexican Hat, a rock with a very peculiar shape! Everyone sees something different: a head wearing a Mexican hat, or an upside-down Mexican hat!

Finally, in the late afternoon, we arrive. We follow a curve in the road and there it is, suddenly, that famous landscape: in the late-afternoon haze, its silhouette is unmistakable, Monument Valley. What a joy to see it in real life, with our own eyes, after admiring it so much in photos and on TV. Emotions run high for everyone, especially for my mom, who never thought she’d get the chance to be here! Even more happiness for me to have brought her here 😊 Naturally, we stop at the famous Forrest Gump Point to capture this magical moment. Everyone strikes their own pose 😅

Our Monument Valley exploration will be for tomorrow. Tonight, we settle into the garden of a Bed and Breakfast. We have access to a bathroom with shower and toilet, which is nice, but most importantly, we enjoy a breathtaking view of Monument Valley! We cook our dinner while admiring the sunset. Simply magnificent. We rarely had such a beautiful spot to spend the night!

Wednesday, October 5

Nature works like this: after the sunset, comes the sunrise! And when you’re facing Monument Valley, this natural spectacle has a whole different flavor. This morning, to admire it, there’s no need to wake up at dawn or hike far: we enjoy it straight from the tent. What a luxury!

And because the day has started so well, we make pancakes for breakfast! With a view like this, they taste even better than usual 😋

While Jeepy takes a bit of rest in a city parking lot, we head into Monument Valley in the rental car. This is a Navajo-managed Indian reservation. Entrance is $8 per person. A 24-kilometer dirt and gravel track allows us to tour the reserve and reach various viewpoints. Cameras in hand, Mom and Rémi snap photos of every butte while I drive. Some buttes are considered sacred by the Navajos, who invoked them to bring rain. Others are named after animals: Elephant Butte, Camel Butte. Sometimes you need a bit of imagination to visualize them!

We also stop at the John Ford Viewpoint. We don’t have horses for the iconic film photo, but… no problem! Everyone has their own style 😅

We loved every minute spent in Monument Valley. What a joy and pride to admire these famous and stunning landscapes with our own eyes! I’m even happier to have brought my mom here, she who thought she’d never see the real landscapes of the Far West! 😘 But now, it’s time to continue south. Many discoveries await us! Including the beautiful Antelope Canyon, our next stop!

L’article United States, Utah & Arizona – Mythical America at Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.