Breathtaking landscapes, the highest peak in North America, wildlife, rivers, snow-capped mountains, and a particularly scenic road: we are back in the incredible Denali Park!

Saturday, August 17, 2024

After our long expedition on the Dalton Highway, we’re back in Fairbanks. For our last weekend in the area, we head to Chena River State Recreation Area. This vast protected space is centered around the Chena River, offering campgrounds, rental cabins, hiking trails, ATV paths, and popular fishing and hunting spots. The scenic dead-end road leading into the park is lined with ponds. We camp by the river, surrounded by mosquitoes and humidity—no solution for the bugs, but a nice campfire on the pebble beach helps with the dampness.

The evening is peaceful—until a huge RV parks right next to us. Their dog starts barking at us for no reason, soon joined by the gentle hum of their generator… We love it! 😑

Sunday, August 18

Despite the cloudy sky, we decide to trust the weather forecast predicting sunshine and go for a hike. We set off on a 6-kilometer loop that follows a river arm before ascending. The woods are damp, much to Rémi’s delight, as mushrooms are everywhere! He embarks on a search for the ultimate treasure: a morel. Although they are supposedly around, all we find are less desirable mushrooms. Meanwhile, we enjoy the beautiful view.

Back on the road, we take time to rotate the tires, which is long overdue since the last rotation in Mendoza, Argentina, in January! We’ve certainly racked up a lot of miles since then. Rémi is efficient: in just 1.5 hours, each tire finds its new position.

We eat on the go in the rain, then head to the end of the road. The Chena River Road is indeed a dead-end road, which ends at a luxury lodge. The place is large and quite crowded on this Sunday. In addition to the lodge’s beautiful suites, there are also helicopter tours, dog sledding excursions, an ice museum, massages, a swimming pool, and… natural hot springs! Well then! We’re cold, we’re wet, and our last swim was in the 7°C water of the Arctic Ocean. Needless to say, we don’t hesitate for long. We pay the $20 entry fee per person and then dive into the hot water of the first jacuzzi available to us. And I’ll tell you this: we were quicker to get into the water here than in the Arctic! 😂

We spend the afternoon lounging between the different jacuzzis and the natural outdoor pool. At 7 p.m., we leave the place, feeling warm and cozy, and settle in the same spot as the day before, by the river, for a quieter evening than the previous one.

Tuesday, August 20

The weather is rarely accurate in Alaska. When the forecast predicts rain, there’s no doubt: it will rain. However, when they predict sunshine, it’s not guaranteed to actually be there… For this week, the predictions are clear: rain, lots of rain. The only day spared? Today! So, we decide to take our chances, no matter what, to spend the one potentially sunny day of the week in Denali Park. After a day of driving from Fairbanks, we arrive at the park gates early in the morning. The blue sky is visible between a few clouds. We’re hopeful that the day will be sunny 🤞.

The weather is 4°C, but it seems to be clearing up. After a quick breakfast taken directly in the parking lot, we set off on a 7-kilometer hike. As we climb, we gradually shed our various layers of clothing. In front of us, the clouds start to disperse. The sun rises in the sky. And the landscapes have taken on their beautiful autumn hues!

And suddenly… around a bend: Mount Denali presents itself to us, framed by a gap in the clouds. It is stunning, as beautiful and majestic as in our memories.

From the ridge, the wind blows in icy gusts, but what a view! The gaze stretches for miles, encompassing much of the Alaska Range, with Denali as the obvious highest peak. From our elevated viewpoint, we are also in the perfect position to spot the park’s wildlife. Many caribou roam the vast taiga plains, though they’re too far for our camera lens. We also catch sight of a grizzly in the riverbed, its light fur shining in the sun. That’s actually what drew our attention! Without that, we probably wouldn’t have noticed it! And of course, the low vegetation of the taiga is home to a multitude of small creatures: pikas, ground squirrels, marmots, and wild geese!

By the time we descend to the road, the weather has cleared up perfectly. Instead of taking the bus back to our starting point, we decide to walk the 4 kilometers along the side of the road. This way, we can enjoy the beautiful landscapes of Denali Park and Denali itself, which honors us with its presence!

Back at the Jeep, we settle in the parking lot as if we were at home to cook some delicious, hearty burgers. Hikers passing by wish us a good meal with a bewildered look! 😅 We eat in the sun, sitting at the back of the Jeep. How pleasant it is! Then, we head out for a walk along the Savage River.

As evening falls, we drive along the park’s scenic route in search of animals. It’s moose rutting season, so we scan the forest for some beautiful specimens. We finally spot two lovely and large females!

After this amazing day in Denali National Park, we leave the park and head south in Alaska. The plan for the next few days: an evening in a cabin deep in the woods!

L’article United States, Alaska – Back to Denali National Park est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Hyder, a small isolated village in Alaska, is the ultimate place for grizzly bear watching. During salmon migration season, grizzlies come to Fish Creek to feast on fish! In mid-August, the chances of spotting them are quite high. So we spent two days watching grizzlies fish for salmon in Hyder. It was a unique and incredible sight we won’t soon forget. Here’s a photo roundup from our long hours of waiting and watching grizzlies in Alaska.

Monday, August 15, 2022

Hyder is a nearly ghost town in Alaska. It’s so small and remote that the United States hasn’t even bothered to install a customs checkpoint there. From Stewart, in British Columbia, you can drive straight into Hyder, Alaska, without stopping or showing your passport. But we are not here to see ghosts, we are here to see Alaska’s grizzly bears! The salmon-filled river attracts all the bears in the area, who come for an intense and greedy fishing session. We are hoping for unforgettable encounters 🤞

We head to Fish Creek, located in Tongass National Forest. It’s a national fee area: $20 per person for a 3-day pass. We even booked our tickets a few days in advance. To safely observe grizzlies in Hyder, there’s a viewing platform along the river, elevated and enclosed with a latched gate. We check in with the rangers and enter, making sure to close the gate carefully behind us. A few visitors are already there, some equipped with enormous telephoto lenses. And now… we wait. Here, in the heart of nature, bears come and go as they please, so patience is key.

Two hours go by. We spend them reading and watching the salmon. There are thousands of them swimming through the stream, we’ve never seen such large ones. Silence reigns, so we whisper to talk to each other. Then, suddenly! A grizzly appears. He’s huge and muscular. He slowly walks upstream, salmon scattering in splashes before him. He ignores them until one isn’t fast enough. Then he lunges forward and catches it with his sharp claws. He grabs it in his jaws and heads to the riverbank to enjoy his meal. What a pro!

He’s devouring his third fish when suddenly, another bear arrives. The two eye each other. They size each other up. They approach slowly. What’s going to happen? Everyone holds their breath.

Suddenly, both stand on their hind legs… and start fighting. Wow! What a show. Swipes, claws, bites. A ranger tells us they’re actually two playful brothers just roughhousing. We spend over an hour watching them play-fight and fish together. Whenever one catches a salmon, he runs away with it so the other doesn’t steal it. These two brothers seem to be regulars at the river, we’re lucky enough to see them three times over the next two days! Whenever they get hungry, they’re back, fishing and play-fighting non-stop.

What a moment! The bears have truly given us some amazing memories during this Far North adventure. We have crossed paths with grizzlies while hiking in the Canadian Rockies, seen cubs nursing on a trail in Banff National Park, then got woken up by a black bear trying to get into our Jeep in Whittier, Alaska, watched them fish for salmon in Haines just a few days ago, and seen them cross the road and climb trees. And now we are watching them play, fight, and fish. So many adventures. So many memories!

Soon after, and to our delight, a third bear shows up! Or rather, a female bear: the mother of the two brothers. She is massive. Times are tough for her, though, as her now-grown cubs rule the river. When she approaches, she laboriously goes around them through the bushes. The brothers watch her but don’t get close. She heads off to fish further upstream.

By 9 p.m., night falls, and it’s time to leave the observation platform. To return to Stewart, Canada, we have to pass through the Canadian border checkpoint. The officer stops us, asks the usual questions, checks our passports, and let us pass. It’s pouring rain, so we stop at the only open restaurant in Stewart, where Rémi enjoys a good burger and I go for a warm butternut squash soup. Tomorrow, we hope to see more bears!

Tuesday, August 16

What wouldn’t we do to watch grizzlies in Hyder! By 7 a.m., we are back on the observation platform. In three hours, we see three bears: the same two brothers from yesterday and a black bear, who stays just long enough to catch a fish and vanish into the brush. We track his movement by watching the swaying bushes. Higher up, he reappears on the road, salmon in his jaws, waddling away. Some lucky driver is in for quite the encounter!

At 10 a.m., we reluctantly leave our observation post at Fish Creek. As amazing as the bears are, there is another nearby attraction: the stunning Salmon Glacier. A rough 4×4 trail leads to a high viewpoint over the glacier, which has retreated significantly over the years. It’s impressive.

On our way back down from the glacier, we spot another black bear, they are definitely everywhere! But we can’t leave Hyder without one last stop at the bear observation platform. It’s 2 p.m., and we wait two hours before one of the brothers shows up to fish. What a glutton! For an hour, we witness unforgettable fishing scenes.

By 5 p.m., tired from all the waiting, we decide to head back to Stewart. At the border, the officer recognizes us: “You were here yesterday, right?” “Did you see any bears?” He asks the standard questions, checks our passports, and then lets us pass. We head to the local campground to take a shower and eat. But by 8 p.m., we just can’t resist, we are back at the grizzly platform. It’s the perfect hour! And sure enough, within minutes, a beautiful grizzly appears. His fishing technique is less refined than the others’: he runs everywhere in the creek, in all directions, until he manages to catch a salmon. He’s hilarious. He offres us some excellent fishing scenes before vanishing with a fish in his mouth.

This time, it’s truly the end of our time at Fish Creek’s observation platform, our eyes sparkling with joy. We still can’t believe we had the chance to watch grizzlies fish for salmon in Hyder! We do a quick count: five bears in Hyder, plus a sixth one spotted along the road near Salmon Glacier. That brings our total to 61 bears since the start of our trip! Wow! That sounds like a huge number. In the car, I joke: “I bet we’ll see number 62 any second now.” We round a bend and bam, bear 62 is there, wandering along the roadside. We burst out laughing.

At the border, the officer exclaims, “You again!” By now, he doesn’t even bother with the usual questions: “Nothing new?” he asks before checking our passports and waving us through. And just like that, we leave Alaska for good, not without a heavy heart. We have had so many adventures in the 49th state, and it’s hard to say goodbye to this chapter of our journey.

Yukon and Alaska have left us with a deep love for the great outdoors, so vast and wild that it’s hard to truly grasp. Such immense and unspoiled spaces can only inspire humility. We have adored this boundless nature, the breathtaking landscapes, the Alaskan glaciers, the Yukon tundra stretching all the way to the Arctic Ocean, and of course, the unpredictable and magnificent wildlife. Our journey through the Americas is just beginning, but we already know that Yukon and Alaska will remain one of the most unforgettable parts of our adventure 😊

Now, we’re heading south, while promising ourselves that we will return one day to roam the wild lands of the North. And in fact, we’ll fulfill that promise sooner than expected. After reaching Ushuaia, we will make a little detour back to Yukon and Alaska before heading home to Montreal. That’s right, almost exactly two years from now, we will be back in Hyder to watch the grizzlies again! But in the meantime, we are excited to explore southern British Columbia, starting with the stunning Wells Gray Provincial Park!

L’article United States, Alaska – Hyder: you are in bear country! est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

After three weeks in Alaska, we are back in the Yukon, Canada. During our Alaska road trip, we discovered exceptional landscapes, breathtaking fjords, impressive glaciers, vast and wild national parks, and abundant wildlife. But there’s one thing we dreamed of seeing and hadn’t yet: bears fishing for salmon! We heard about a place where this is possible, with a bit of luck and patience. So, we head to Haines, a small Alaskan village. But to reach Haines, we first need to cross back through Canada and the stunning Kluane National Park.

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

After visiting the old ghost mine of Kennecott, we cross the border into Canada. We are back on the mythical Alaska Highway, where we had so many adventures on the way there… but this time, in reverse! It’s always a pleasure to return to this magnificent road, whose landscapes never fail to leave us speechless. As always on the Alaska Highway, wildlife encounters are plentiful: bald eagles, black bears, swans.

As we cover the kilometers, the vast boreal forest dotted with lakes gives way to mountainous terrain: we are entering Kluane National Park, home to Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan. Let’s gain some altitude to better admire Kluane Park. We get up early to tackle one of the park’s most beautiful hikes!

🥾 King’s Throne – 9.6 km (5.6 miles), 1000 m elevation gain

After a two very flat kilometers along Lake Kathleen, the real challenge begins. We gain over 1000 meters in elevation (3300 ft.) in less than 3 kilometers (1.8 miles). In short: it’s VERY steep! The trail is very rugged, but we gain height quickly, and the view gradually unfolds before us.

Two kilometers from the summit, we are forced to stop: powerful winds are nearly knocking us over. It’s impossible to stand against the wind. With steep drop-offs on either side of the trail, it becomes truly dangerous. We find shelter under a rocky outcrop to enjoy our picnic, safe from the wind, with a spectacular view.

After a grueling descent in howling winds, we stop by the lake to cool off. The wind is still blowing hard and the water is ice-cold! You can probably tell from our faces 😅

Exhausted but so happy with the beautiful hike, we hit the road again. And what a road! It winds through changing landscapes: first vast grasslands that remind us of Denali National Park, then across a windy pass, past rushing rivers, and finally through an old coniferous forest. Driving through the Yukon is always a delight! The roadside is dotted with bear scat, which Rémi enjoys counting, but no actual bears in sight.

We arrive in Haines at 7 p.m., after a quick border crossing. Yep, Haines is in Alaska! We are here for one specific reason: to see bears fishing for salmon.

This small fishing village lies at the end of a fjord. To leave, you must either take a ferry to Skagway or drive back the way you came. There are lovely chalets with views by the bay and estuary, loads of bald eagles, and many fishing boats taking advantage of the salmon season. But they’re not the only ones! In Haines, with a bit of luck, you can spot bears fishing for salmon too!

We head straight to the Chilkoot River, a well-known salmon river in the area. And from the moment we arrive, we are not disappointed: a mama bear and her two cubs are in the middle of a fishing session! They are fishing directly from the metal structure used to monitor the salmon run. Park staff use it for fish counts, already over 50,000 salmon since July! At the moment, no one’s on duty, and the three bears have taken over. Quite a spectacle! With so many salmon, fishing seems easy for this mother bear, she just has to reach down and grab one. The real challenge is keeping some for herself, with two very hungry cubs at her side!

We find a roadside spot to camp for the night, not too far from the river. Our goal: come back early tomorrow morning to see the bears again!

Wednesday, August 10

We are barely awake before we are on the road to the Chilkoot River again. Driving along the water, on the lookout, and suddenly: what’s that grazing over there? Cows? Bison? Nope, bears!! We’re definitely in bear country! A mom and her three big cubs, grazing in the grass! What a surprise.

As they move off into the estuary, we realize they are heading toward the woods and will cross the road. Without hesitation, we take the car and go park by the roadside, where we think they will cross. Then, camera in hand, we wait. And wait. Then suddenly, there they are, crossing… behind us! Darn it, bad calculation 😀

There are no bears at the river this morning, so we decide to kill time by… mushroom picking! We venture into the woods behind the campground, looking for porcini mushrooms. Honestly, not the best idea right after seeing four grizzlies in the area. The harvest is good: two large porcini and a bolete. We double-check our finds with a knowledgeable German couple. Just in case. For lunch: sautéed wild mushrooms!

Back at the river, the same mama bear from yesterday has reappeared. Not shy, she has just been “gazed” by a park employee, who was counting salmon on the bridge. The employee, very used to this, reassures us: the bear will be back soon. And indeed, a few minutes later, there she is! No sign of her cubs. Now that the employee is gone, she resumes her fishing from the same spot and quickly gets to work. With her sharp claws, she grabs the salmon with ease, guts them with her teeth, and devours them, everything except the head!

Back in Haines, we stroll through the village and stock up on a few groceries to go with our freshly picked mushrooms. Dinner is a wild mushroom sauté with fries (not homemade, sadly, no time), green beans, and a good steak. We eat it all in the car, sheltered from the rain, facing the bay.

Before leaving Haines, we return to the river for one last chance to see the bears. Unfortunately, the place is now full of fishermen. No bears, but we do enjoy watching a majestic bald eagle. Rémi has developed a bit of a passion with eagles, he’s determined to get the perfect shot. Which is not easy, since they always perch way up high, out of reach. But he’s doing a great job 😉

We loved watching the bears fish for salmon so much that we will definitely return to the Chilkoot River on our way back from our trip! Now it’s time for the long drive back to Canada. We had planned to take the ferry, but the cost is outrageous and the next one isn’t for another three days. So, we’re preparing to take the long road back to the Alaska Highway and onward to Whitehorse, nearly 400 km (250 miles), passing through the improbable Carcross Desert. As we cross the border out of Alaska—America’s 49th state—we spot our 49th bear by the roadside. A beautiful coincidence 😊 Either way, we are thrilled to have finally seen bears fishing for salmon in Alaska!

L’article Canada, Yukon, and Alaska – Hiking in Kluane National Park and salmon fishing in Haines est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Continuation of our road trip in Alaska! We have been amazed by the coastal treasures of Alaska, but now it’s time to explore the interior. So, we head to the Kennecott Mine, a ghost town located in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, which is home to some of the highest peaks in North America… and the Root Glacier, on which we are determined to walk on, with or without crampons.

Thursday, August 4, 2022

After an incredible cruise in Valdez where we encountered Alaska’s wildlife and admired its breathtaking scenery, we’re now heading inland. From Valdez, it’s a 290 km (180 mile) drive to reach the remote village of McCarthy. And “remote” really means something here. It takes us all day to get there. First, we drive along a beautiful straight road cutting through the boreal forest. Then comes a washboard and pothole-filled gravel road plunging deep into the heart of Alaska, and more specifically, into the vast Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

During this long drive, we make three stops.

Thompson Pass

To go to or leave Valdez, you have to cross the stunning Thompson Pass, nestled among massive mountains and high glaciers. From the viewpoint, a rough track leads up to a hill overlooking the pass. With the Jeep, we don’t hesitate! The view over the valley is spectacular.

Worthington Glacier

Next, we stop for a hike to the imposing Worthington Glacier, visible from the road. Technically, the trail is closed due to a landslide, but it remains quite passable. We carefully make our way close to it. The view of the glacier and its constantly flowing ice cave is impressive. We don’t get too close, remembering the chunks of ice breaking off the Meares Glacier during our Valdez cruise. Getting hit by one isn’t on the agenda! 🤪

Then it’s back on the road to McCarthy, not forgetting to fill up at the local gas station.

The Old Railway

On the road to McCarthy, remnants of the old railroad are still visible in places It was built in the early 1900s to transport copper from the Kennecott Mine to the port of Cordova, 320 km (200 miles) south.

We arrive in McCarthy at the end of the day. The village itself is not accessible by car, so we’ll take the free shuttle tomorrow. For now, we need a place to sleep. The local campground charges $30, and without any services! So, we turn back and settle for the trailhead parking lot under a big “No Camping” sign! Oh well. We take the risk. Just minutes after lying down, Rémi hears someone approaching. Since we’re here a bit “illegally,” he peeks out the window… It’s a huge moose wandering around the Jeep. Phew! A moose for a neighbor — that’s Alaska at its best 😊.

Friday, August 5

The old Kennecott Mine is lost deep within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska’s wildest park. To get there, you have to take a free shuttle, which first stops at McCarthy, a tiny, charming village, even in the rain.

Kennecott is a former copper mining town. In 1900, two prospectors discovered copper ore here with levels never seen before: over 70%, among the purest ever found on Earth. The mining boom was on. At the foot of the five mines spread throughout the mountains, the most famous being Bonanza Mine, the town of Kennecott was created. For years, astronomical amounts of copper were extracted using then-modern techniques. In 1911, the railway sped up the export of production. But by 1938, the mines were exhausted and the town was abandoned. In the 1990s, the U.S. National Park Service bought the Kennecott site and carried out colossal restoration work. Today, it is possible to visit some of the buildings.

Back when the mines were active, Kennecott was a lively, bustling place despite its isolation and the journey of getting there by train. There was a grocery store, a school, tennis courts, and even a hospital, particularly renowned in the region. While the school and hospital are now in ruins, the grocery store has been rebuilt just like the original.

The factory was the heart of the operation, and its towering structure still dominates the town today. When the mines were active, the factory operated 24/7 at full capacity. Copper ore was transported to it via suspended gondolas, which also transported miners between the mines and the village! At the factory, the ore was crushed, copper was extracted, and the refined material was sent south via the railroad, the same line we saw remnants of on the drive in.

We would have loved to hike to one of the mines, up in the mountains, but the rainy weather discourages us. Instead, we walk 3 km on a very muddy trail to the base of the Root Glacier. We don’t have crampons, but we carefully step onto the glacier’s tongue. It may not be much, but we’re thrilled to say we’ve walked on a glacier! Careful, it’s slippery! 😅

Chased away by the rain, which is expected to last several more days, we quickly decide to leave McCarthy and Wrangell-St. Elias in search of blue skies. As soon as we return from visiting the Kennecott Mine, we hit the road again, and even spot a black bear around a bend.

Saturday, August 6 and Sunday, August 7

After a month on the spot, our road trip in Alaska is coming to an end! We drive to Tok, near the Yukon border in Canada. Or at least we’re trying to. Two gas stations are supposed to be on the route. The first one doesn’t exist. Great. Let’s hope the next one is real because we’re almost out of gas. We drive and drive, and the fuel gauge keeps dropping. When we reach the supposed second station, there’s nothing but a ranch! Yikes.

We quickly do the math: 65 km to Tok, and… the Jeep displays “Low Fuel.” Likely less than 15 km left. What now? Hitchhike to Tok with a jerry can? What were we thinking not filling our two 20L cans?! Ugh. Luckily, two sisters stop for us. Their father has a 5-gallon (22-liter) gas can for his ATV. We strike a deal for $30. We’re saved!

The next day, before crossing into Canada, the Jeep needs some maintenance: changing the faulty front headlight, checking oil levels, cleaning the filters, rotating and reinflating the tires — all while enjoying our first pancakes on the road! 😋 That’s also what travel is about. Who wants to go far…

We cross the border in the afternoon, with a slightly heavy heart as our Alaskan adventures come to an end. But it’s time for new ones in Canada, our heart’s country. Yukon, here we come again! 😛

But our journey through Alaska isn’t quite over yet! Even though we are leaving the main part of this end-of-the-world state, Alaska stretches on for hundreds more kilometers to the south, including the lovely village of Haines, famous for bear watching during the salmon run. But to get there, we will first pass through Canada and the incredible Kluane National Park.

L’article United States, Alaska – The ghost town of the Kennecott mine. est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Valdez is a remote Alaskan fishing port nestled at the end of a fjord. It’s surrounded by glaciers as tall as buildings and teeming marine wildlife: whales, orcas, porpoises, sea lions, seals, otters, salmon, puffins, bald eagles. [Almost] no one was missing during our cruise in Valdez, through Prince William Sound in the Gulf of Alaska!

Tuesday, August 2, 2022

After 10 days on the incredible Kenai Peninsula, which we completely fell in love with, we continue our road trip through Alaska. 485 km (300 miles) separate Anchorage, the largest city in the state, from Valdez, a fishing port on the edge of Prince William Sound. The journey begins in the rain, with surrounding mountains and glaciers barely visible through the mist. But as the day goes on, the fog clears and the sun makes a few timid appearances, allowing us to admire the vast boreal forest, Alaska’s mountain ranges, and Worthington Glacier.

We arrive in Valdez at 6 PM after a full day on the road. Under a beautiful sun, we discover this very touristy fishing village. Unlike nearby Cordova, farther south, Valdez is accessible by road, which has allowed it to develop its tourism industry…and all the activities that come with it! Our dream is to go kayaking among icebergs, but the prices are outrageous! However, we find more affordable options than in Seward, where we were a few days ago, so we book a cruise in Valdez. Now we just have to hope tomorrow will be a beautiful and wildlife-filled day! 🤞

Wednesday, August 3

Clear skies. Radiant sunshine. Not a breeze of wind. In short, THE perfect day for a cruise in Valdez and a sea expedition. We are excited and eager as we board the Valdez Spirit at 9 a.m. Let’s go for eight hours of wonder, amazement, and excitement. We immediately settle on the upper deck, facing the sea, ready to spend a day that we hope will be exceptional.

And unforgettable it was! Here is a photo summary of our day by Rémi!

Seals

Seals rest and sunbathe on ocean buoys and icebergs. Their round heads and large eyes turn toward us as we pass, but they don’t move a muscle.

Otters

Otters rest in the open sea, grooming themselves as they floated on their backs, rocking gently with the current and waves. It is very funny to watch! Some carry their pups on their bellies. Otters are the largest rodents in North America, and males can weigh up to 45 kg (100 lbs). We ‘d love floating like an otter with the current 😆. When the boat gets too close, they dive headfirst and disapear.

Bald Eagles

As we cruise along the coast in search of bears or seabirds, bald eagles are easy to spot in the trees: just look for a white spot in the green vegetation. This emblematic bird of the United States is everywhere around Valdez, almost always perched very high, out of reach.

Puffins

Another seabird, much smaller: puffins. They either float on the water or fly skimming just above the surface.

Sea Lions

Sea lions sunbathe on the rocks and beaches along the shore. We hear the grunts of the whole colony as we pass along the cliffs. There are some rather impressive specimens! The largest males weigh an average of 545 kg (1,200 lbs). We like them, but we wouldn’t mind an orca coming by for a snack 😁.

Humpback Whales

A splash in the distance! The boat makes a sudden turn as it abruptly changes course. A humpback whale! They travel 9,600 km (6,000 miles) to spend the summer feeding in Alaska’s nutrient-rich waters, then head down to the warm waters of Mexico to spend the winter and reproduce. When they are in Alaska, their only goal is to feed and gain strength: they can eat up to one ton of food per day, mostly plankton and krill. The one we see seems playful: it leaps out of the water with a big splash and shows its fins before diving back into the depths. Hard to keep track of it!

Porpoises

Splashes on the horizon. The boat races through the water and stops at a respectful distance from a group of porpoises. We can see only their dorsal fins as they swim together without really moving forward. Then suddenly, the entire group rushes toward us! “Hold on,” says the captain, “they may swim with us.” Indeed, the porpoises begin swimming alongside the boat for several meters. A magical moment for us, especially since we were right at the bow, in the front row!

Meares Glacier

The highlight of the show, and the main reason we are taking this cruise in Valdez: Meares Glacier. It suddenly appears around a bend in the fjord, immense and majestic. We’ve seen many glaciers since arriving in Alaska, but this one is particularly impressive. As tall as a multi-story building, its massive form stretchs across the end of the fjord. What is rare about Meares Glacier: it’s advancing! Unlike its neighbor, Columbia Glacier, the second largest glacier in North America, which has retreated by 22 km (14 miles) in just 20 years! 😱

The captain approaches as close as possible, though keeps at a safe distance because of the frequent icefalls from the glacier’s face. “Hold on,” he says, “it’s teasing us.” The boat engines have fallen silent. We wait for an hour, listening to the glacier’s impressive cracking sounds and watching chunks of ice fall. Then suddenly: a huge block breaks off and falls into the sea, shaking the boat with a big wave. Wow!

Alaska in All Its Splendor

Beyond the wildlife, the landscapes are also a feast for the eyes as they slowly drift by. Once again: this is Alaska in all its splendor, just as we imagined it, but seen from the sea!

We return from our cruise in Valdez with stars in our eyes. But the day isn’t over! While chatting with other passengers, we heard about a place where it is possible to see sea lions fishing. So we head to the Valdez Hatchery, an artificial salmon breeding facility. The tide was going out. Hundreds, no, thousands, of salmon have returned to the hatchery where they were born. They are blocked by metal grates, yet driven by an incredible instinct, they keep trying in vain to swim upstream.

This abundance of salmon is a feast for seagulls, eagles, and sea lions, who are gorging themselves. Poor salmon! It is a rather tragic sight: many are dead from exhaustion, others struggle in vain to pass the grates, while others are eaten alive. It’s not easy being a salmon! 😬

It is 10 p.m. We are settled by the river. Rémi has just lit the campfire, and the tea and coffee is still steaming. The dishes are being done. That’s when we get a message from Marie and Brian: a bear at the hatchery!! Without hesitation, we douse the fire with our tea/coffee, and ten minutes later, we are on our way. But when we arrive, it is too late, the bear is gone. What a disappointment. We hang out there for a while, chatting with our friends and feeling sorry for the fate of all these poor salmon, whose hundreds of carcasses litter the ground at low tide, devoured by gulls and eagles.

But on the way back: we finally see it! A beautiful brown bear comes to catch grab a salmon the gulls have missed. The moment is too short to capture, but we are thrilled to have seen a bear, even briefly. We spend the night by a lake with Marie and Brian. As we chat in front of the Jeep, I suddenly notice a new sticker, a Denali sticker! Marie and Brian had stuck it on while we were on the cruise to replace the one that had been stolen from us. Thank you again, friends!!! 😍

It’s already time for us to leave Valdez. We spent some incredible days here, discovering amazing Alaskan landscapes and the wildlife that inhabits its rich waters. Believe it or not, our next destination is not another fishing port! Indeed, we are heading deep into Alaska’s remote wilderness to explore a ghost town: the Kennecott Mine.

L’article United States, Alaska – Meares Glacier and wildlife during a spectacular cruise in Valdez est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

The Kenai Peninsula is a condensed version of everything Alaska has to offer: towering glaciers, picturesque fishing ports, and both humans and bears enjoying the Pacific salmon run. After discovering the typically Alaskan fishing ports of Whittier and Seward, we set out on one of the most stunning hikes we’ve ever done: the incredible hike to Exit Glacier and the Harding Icefield.

Thursday, July 28, 2022

Exit Glacier is one of the most impressive glaciers near Seward, and also one of the most accessible. For a breathtaking view of the icefield, its crevasses, and sheer immensity, there’s nothing like gaining some elevation. So we set off for a full-day hike in Kenai Fjords National Park, hoping to be amazed. We say goodbye to Marie-Thérèse and Brian, or rather, see you soon! Lately, we keep running into each other! 😅

🥾 Harding Icefield Trail – 16 km (10 miles), 1087 m elevation gain

What can we say about the hike to Exit Glacier except: wow. From start to finish, it was stunning, and it’s already ranked among our list of our most beautiful hikes to date. The first kilometers lead through a dense, wild forest that reminds us of the Sumatran jungle (yes, really), except here, there are raspberries along the trail instead of orangutans in the trees. As we climb higher, the forest gives way to wind-swept flowering meadows where marmots live. Finally, the last ecosystem of the hike is a rocky, desert-like expanse: the glacier’s moraine. Years ago, the ice reached all the way here. Today, it’s just rocks and dust where nothing grows.

From the first viewpoint, we overlook the ice tongue of Exit Glacier. The brilliant white contrasts beautifully with the green meadows and the colorful wildflowers. You just want to run through it like Heidi 😂

The climb continues along the mountain, higher and higher. The trail winds along the hillside and gives us magnificent views of the valley and the glacier. Soon, we reach the final section of the Exit Glacier hike: the moraine. The landscape shifts again, from green and white to white and gray.

After three hours of hiking, we reach the end of the trail. We are standing at the top of a wind-swept hill that overlooks the Harding Icefield. We are blown away by the view. From the valley, the glacier looks small (it’s easy to imagine how much it must have shrunk in recent years), but from up here, we discover a whole other world. What we thought was a small glacier is actually part of an icefield stretching for miles and miles, as far as the eye can see. It’s simply incredible. This is one of only two icefields we’ll get to see on our Pan-American road trip, the other being the three-day trek to the Southern Patagonian Icefield, one of the largest in the world.

When we overlook it, we can see its deep blue crevasses. It’s stunning. We find a spot sheltered from the wind and enjoy our picnic with a view, grateful for the chance to be here.

After such a hike, all we want is a shower! No, actually, two things: a shower and ice cream! We get both. The shower, hidden away by the river; the ice cream, at the port in Seward. Then, we do some grocery shopping, refuel the car and water tanks, and hit the road! It’s 5 PM, but the day is far from over.

Next stop: Russian River, known for its salmon and its bears. It’s a popular spot for both fishermen and travelers. The Russian Falls in particular are a well-known bear-watching location. When we arrive at the parking lot, who do we run into? Marie and Brian again! They’ve just returned from the falls, thrilled: they saw a mama bear and her three cubs. Wow! We want to see too!

It’s 9 PM, but we head straight to the falls… and down the wrong trail. We end up wading through the icy river, hopping from rock to rock… After two kilometers, we have to admit it: this is not the right trail, and night is catching up with us. Night! We had almost forgotten what that was 😁 We turn back. We’ll go to the falls tomorrow morning. After a face-to-face with a moose while going to the bathroom in the woods, we go to bed.

Friday, July 29

The next morning, we are determined to see bears fishing. We’re up at 6:45 AM and hit the trail (the right one this time!). Bears, bears! After 3 km, we reach the viewpoint overlooking Russian Falls. And indeed, the place is packed with salmon. Thousands of them! They leap from cascade to cascade, trying to reach the spot where they were born. What an instinct! Some make it, others crash into rocks and fall back into the lower pools. Poor things! We have a blast watching and photographing them… which is good, because we spend four hours waiting for bears to show up. In vain. Loads of salmon, no bears.

Exhausted after these intense days, we decide to find a peaceful spot to spend a quiet afternoon. We drive two hours across the Kenai Peninsula and find the perfect place. We are at the top of a cliff with a breathtaking view over the fjord, the mountains, and the volcanoes across the bay. Absolutely perfect.

In the evening, a drama occurs: we realize that our beautiful Denali National Park sticker has been stolen! 😤 Seriously?

Sunday, July 31

The day before was rainy. We spent it working at the Soldotna library, a small town on the Kenai Peninsula. Then, we enjoyed a beautiful evening by the water, watching a sunset that seemed never-ending. For hours, the sun slid along the horizon before finally disappearing late into the night.

After a sunny breakfast overlooking the bay, we head to the fishing port of Homer. But before getting there, we stop at a significant point: the westernmost point in mainland North America accessible by road. Funny, considering Alaska continues even farther west, though only reachable by boat or plane.

The peninsula road ends in a dead-end at Homer, a very touristy fishing port. To go beyond, you have to book a tour or charter a plane, boat, or helicopter. It’s all way too expensive for us, so we just stroll around the harbor, explore the village, walk along the beach, and enjoy some delicious halibut fish & chips at a local restaurant. Indeed, it’s impossible to leave Homer, the halibut capital, without trying some! It’s delicious.

After lunch, we watch the fishing boats return. And let’s just say the catch was good: cod, rockfish, Pacific salmon, and halibut galore. The fishermen (actually tourists who paid for a two-day fishing charter) proudly show off their biggest catch. One boat hauled in a 100-pound (45 kg) halibut! It’s huge. Everyone applauds. Then another comes in with a 110-pounder (50 kg). New record! That’s going to make a lot of fish & chips 😅

It’s still early in the afternoon when we leave Homer. We decide to drive 2 hours and 40 minutes back to try our luck again at the Russian Falls. We’re not giving up: we want to see bears fishing! We are more motivated than ever as we quickly walk the three kilometers to the viewpoint over the river. Late afternoon is the perfect time. Like two days ago, the salmon are here by hundreds. But as for the bears…

We wait more than an hour when suddenly! A black bear! Over there, in the bushes. It slowly makes its way down toward the river. It’s going to fish! The excitement is palpable. But then something catches its attention: a family has left the trail and gone down to the river. They are trying to catch salmon with their bare hands and haven’t seen the bear… They’re making noise, waving their arms. The bear gets scared and runs off into the forest. We are 😡. They had the whole river to fish and had to do it right here?! Ugh. Major disappointment. We wait until 10 PM, but no more luck. We return to the car, disheartened.

Monday, August 1

For our last stop on the Kenai Peninsula, we visit the small village of Hope. There’s not much to do except stroll along the bay and watch the fishermen catching salmon. The village is charming, with well-preserved houses and buildings from the early 1900s.

After a week on the Kenai Peninsula, it’s time for us to move on. We make a brief stop in Anchorage to reconnect with civilization, then hit the road for another fishing port (yes, another one!): Valdez, where we hope to finally take a cruise to see glaciers and marine wildlife.

L’article United States, Alaska – Hike to Exit Glacier and the Alaska Icefield est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

We wanted to discover the real Alaska. And we’ve definitely found it on the incredible Kenai Peninsula. It remains a highlight of our Pan-American road trip! We loved it so much that we returned two years later, on our way back from Ushuaia to Montreal (what do you mean, that’s a huge detour?). The Kenai Peninsula is Alaska in all its glory: impressive glaciers, fjords home to whales and orcas, Pacific salmon in full migration, charming fishing villages, and abundant, unpredictable wildlife. We begin our exploration of this southern Alaskan peninsula in the small fishing port of Whittier, with its impressive salmon-filled river and the breathtaking Portage Glacier. Join us as we explore the heart of Alaska!

Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Freshly arrived from Anchorage the day before, our first day on the Kenai Peninsula started with a gust of wind that rocks the Jeep. A gust? But there’s no wind! Strange. I peek through the window: nothing. Then the Jeep rocks again. We exchange a look. Could it be… a bear? Rémi looks out his side and finds himself face-to-face with a black bear! Total shock! The bear is standing on its hind legs, front paws resting on the Jeep, sniffing the window. Rémi has a direct view of its big, slobbery snout. “Holy shit!”

In a flash, Rémi triggers the car alarm. I have other priorities, I grab my phone to capture this moment. Despite the alarm and the chaos in the car, the bear doesn’t seem the least bit bothered. It continues sniffing around the top of the door. We can hear its claws scraping against the paint. Is this thing going to scratch our Jeep?! 😖 Eventually, when the alarm goes off again, the bear climbs down. It glances back one last time, giving us one last nonchalant look, before waddles off. Not exactly a frightened retreat.

It takes us a good ten minutes to dare step outside. What an adrenaline rush! We never really felt in danger, but it was seriously impressive. And pretty funny, too! We’ll remember this rude awakening thanks to the slobber on our windshield, the claw marks on the door, and a poorly filmed video showing a bear standing in front of our car. A memory we won’t forget.

From the viewpoint, we get a stunning view of the fjord and the glacier above it. Word of our little bear encounter has already spread among other travelers who camped nearby, a couple of Americans rush over to hear the full story.

Before heading to Whittier, we stop at the salmon river. There they are, dozens of them swimming upstream! All huge. Dan, a fly fisherman, is hard at work, though he says it’s “just for sport.” Each time he catches one, he releases it back.

The village of Whittier is particularly charming, with its little harbor nestled between mountains, its fishing boats, and the bustling activities of local fishermen. A true Alaskan fishing village!

🥾 Portage Pass Trail – 6.8 km, 437 m elevation gain

Next, we head to Portage Glacier. We haven’t done a proper hike in weeks, not since the Canadian Rockies, so we are thrilled to put on our boots and head out. The trail takes us up a hill overlooking the glacier, and then down to the lake below, offering a breathtaking view of every detail of Portage Glacier. Simply stunning! The lake water is, of course, icy. We dip in a finger, that’s enough! Small icebergs float on the surface, signs of the glacier’s ongoing melt.

We rush downhill, hoping to catch the next tunnel slot to leave Whittier. But of course, we’re late again — the next one is in an hour. Just like earlier, we cook a meal in the parking lot. Maybe someone will offer us a salmon again 😀 Then we head toward Seward, another fishing village at the end of another fjord on the Kenai Peninsula. The road there is gorgeous… but when is it ever not?

Riverbeds are always perfects spots to spend the night. A wide open space, stunning mountain views, the sound of the river, the sunshine — everything’s perfect. With our 4×4, we can get away from the “crowds” and find a peaceful spot behind some trees. A beautiful evening awaits! We go all out: tent, campfire, and the salmon we were gifted two days ago by some generous fishermen! Gently cooked in foil with mashed potatoes, it makes a delicious combo. We savor it by the fire, right in the riverbed, alone with the Alaskan mountains. What more could we ask for? Thank you again to Tim and his fishing buddies for this incredible gift 😃 A joyful evening as a couple in the heart of the Alaskan wilderness ❤️

Wednesday, July 27

After a relaxed morning and breakfast in the sun with a mountain view, we set off for the charming fishing village of Seward.

Seward is a picturesque Alaskan fishing village. The harbor is lovely, filled with trawlers, sailboats, and fishing vessels. Also it really smells like fish! Signs warn not to feed the sea lions lounging on the beach under the piers, but today, none are in sight.

There are plenty of tourist activities offered in the port’s wooden cabins: we’d love to go kayaking in the fjord, fly over a glacier, or take a day cruise to see glaciers, whales, orcas, and seals — or even hike on a glacier. But everything’s way too expensive… Oh well, today we’ll explore the landscape in our favorite budget-friendly way: on foot! Off we go for a fjord-side hike.

🥾 Tonsina Creek Trail – 5.5 km

The fjord-side hike quickly turns into a forest hike, we walk for several kilometers through thick, wild vegetation before finally reaching the bay viewpoint. On the plus side, we find our snack: some tart wild raspberries. Before reaching the bay, we cross a bridge under which dozens of salmon are teeming.

The tide is low, so we can walk along the driftwood-strewn beach. The view over the fjord and the surrounding mountains is breathtaking.

Back in Seward, we witness the return of the fishing boats! Accompanied by their guide, tourists come back from their day on the water like proud conquerors. Everyone hauls in some impressive catches, which they proudly show off. There are all kinds of salmon, of course, but also halibut and massive rockfish that are over 100 years old! As we sip our milkshake, we watch the fish being cleaned and filleted. The remains are tossed straight into the sea, a feast for the sea lions and gulls.

That evening, we return to the riverbed. We immediately hit it off with our neighbors for the night: Kuan and Victor, who live in Salt Lake City, Utah! We’ve been reading their travel blog for weeks, so it’s pretty wild to run into them here! We enjoy an apéro together by the water, and of course, we talk about travel and rigs! They even give us a tour of their campervan, roomy, cozy, and warm. We could totally see ourselves in one like that 😅 Hope to see you again in Utah, friends!

Just as we’re sitting down for dinner in the Jeep, a truck pulls up, it’s Marie and Brian! How they found us in the middle of the woods is a mystery, but we’re so happy to see them. We end up having an impromptu riverside campfire evening that lasts past midnight. What a great time 😊

Tomorrow, we are off on one of the most neautiful hikes of our trip: an epic trek to the impressive Exit Glacier and the Alaska’s vast icefield. After that, we’ll continue exploring the Kenai Peninsula, visiting the fishing port of Homer and the Russian River, where we hope to spot bears catching salmon!

L’article United States, Alaska – Typical Fishing Ports in Whittier and Seward on the Kenai Peninsula est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

From Nature to City! After a few days spent in the wild at Denali National Park, where we reveled in the vast Alaskan wilderness, we hit the road toward Alaska’s largest city: Anchorage.

Friday, July 22, 2022

A rainy day on the road, but even under the gray sky, the landscapes are still quite stunning 😛 Driving in Alaska is an odyssey in itself. We take it slow, fully appreciating the landscapes and wildlife around us. Every so often, we stop to soak in the vast nature, etch the shape of the mountains, the vast expenses of prairies, taiga, rivers, and lakes into our memories. We feel incredibly lucky and grateful to be crossing this beautiful state at the end of the world.

We spend the evening and night in the parking lot at the south viewpoint of Denali, hoping with all our hearts that the clouds will clear in the evening or early morning 🤞. Unfortunately, no luck. Denali remains hidden behind a thick layer of clouds, and despite all our prayers, we catch only a glimpse of a few mountains during a brief clearing.

Saturday, July 23

We arrive in Talkeetna by late morning. We had read that it was a typical town, but to us, it seems more like a tourist spot! Here, you can find all sorts of excursions to explore Alaska, from ATVs and rafting to airplane and helicopter tours. Talkeetna is still an essential stop on the way to Anchorage, with its charming main street lined with local shops, restaurants, and a beautiful view of Mount Denali, which, sadly, remains hidden behind the clouds.

We spend the afternoon at the library, enjoying good Wi-Fi and a studious environment to work. Later, in the evening, we head to Anchorage, 180 kilometers south. It’s the largest city in Alaska, with nearly 300,000 residents. We find a spot to sleep near the city center, in a large park parking lot by a duck pond. Some strange people are around, so we consider moving elsewhere. But then a campervan pulls up, and Marie-Thérèse and Brian, a French-American couple from Seattle, spot our Quebec license plate and park next to us! We spend the evening getting to know each other and chatting in the parking lot, where we end up staying the night. How a lovely encounter can turn a slightly creepy evening into a wonderful moment 😍

Sunday, July 24

We like cities, but not too much. So, we decide to dedicate just one day to exploring Anchorage. We have a packed schedule, with plans to see the city’s most iconic spots while doing shopping, laundry, getting gas, and washing the Jeep. We get up early, and I even manage to go for a run in the park. What we hadn’t planned? The magic of meeting new people! We spend a good part of the morning chatting with Marie-Thérèse and Brian, who even end up cooking us breakfast and… well, here, take the sausages, they’re good! 😅 Thanks again, friends! What a pleasure to chat with you 😄

Local Artisan Market in Downtown

At 10 AM, we head out to the market. We had heard about a giant market with 200 vendors, but we find a lovely neighborhood market with about 20 vendors selling Alaskan-made items and crafts. It’s very nice.

Lake Hood Seaplane Base

Next, we visit the Lake Hood Seaplane Base, a must-see in Anchorage. It’s the busiest seaplane base in the world! No surprise, considering that over half of Alaska is only accessible by plane. Time for a photo shoot of the landings and takeoffs!

The Aviation Museum

An event is taking place at the nearby Aviation Museum, and the pilots are putting on a show for the public: flying at full speed in front of us, landing and taking off again, and flying low. Quite a spectacle!

Kincai Park and Earthquake Park

We take a walk through some of the city’s parks. Anchorage has nearly 200 parks, ranging from small neighborhood parks to large ones, like Kincaid Park on the city’s outskirts, where you might spot bears and moose. It’s a paradise for hikers, bikers, and joggers right in the heart of the city! At Earthquake Park, we also learn that Anchorage was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1964. The park offers a great view of downtown and… could it be? Denali! Yes, there it is, in the distance, through the mist! A tricky one, this Denali. We waited in vain at the best viewpoints along the road, and now, when we least expect it, it finally shows up!

After our walks, it’s time for some practical tasks! We have to take advantage of the big city, since there aren’t many in Alaska! Today’s priority: wash the Jeep! It’s filthy, and the grime, over time, isn’t doing it any good. We even vacuum the inside for the first time since we left. What a dream to clean only every two months, right? We love it! 😁 Afterward, we go grocery shopping, which makes us hungry. Tonight, we find a restaurant we’ve been dreaming of for a long time: an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet. Oh no, we can’t find a Chinese restaurant, so it will be an all-you-can-eat Mongolian buffet! Very good. Then, once we’re full, we award Jeepy its first medals!

Alaska’s Wildlife, Even in the City!

It’s nearly 10 PM when we finally hit the road to sleep outside the city. We’re in Anchorage’s industrial zone, near Cabela’s, a hunting and fishing store, between two highways. Suddenly, Rémi exclaims, “Oh, a moose! A huge moose!” I don’t think it’s any bigger than the ones we’ve already seen, but then I turn my head and spot another massive male moose! With antlers! Incredible! We’ve been searching for a male moose for weeks, and we find one here, in Anchorage’s industrial zone. Is he lost or something? We can’t believe it! What a magnificent specimen.

The Salmon River

As night falls, it’s strange to see a hint of twilight. On the road to the Kenai Peninsula, just after leaving Anchorage, we stop by a river to watch fishermen catching salmon. The Pacific salmon migration season has begun! The salmon are swimming upstream to spawn and die where they were born. It’s quite a journey for them, and a great opportunity for the fishermen, who are having a blast. They’re biting like crazy!

We then follow the road into the fjord. The tide is low, and the landscape is amazing, even though the weather is cloudy. Suddenly, we run into Marie-Thérèse and Brian again! Small world in Alaska 😄 It’s pouring rain and very windy as we settle down for the night by the fjord.

Monday, July 25

As predicted, the weather is stormy this morning. So, we just want to relax on the couch, under a blanket, with some herbal tea, and watch TV series all day. The problem? We live in a Jeep, and we don’t have a couch! Marie-Thérèse and Brian kindly invite us into their campervan, where we spend several hours chatting and drinking coffee. When we leave, it’s already almost noon!

We then spend the day in the small town of Girdwood, doing laundry, taking a hot shower, and using the laundry’s Wi-Fi to work. A rainy day well spent! In the afternoon, the weather clears up a bit, and we decide to take a walk up the heights of Girdwood, where glaciers overlook old gold mining areas.

Next, we head toward Whittier. This small fishing village is located at the end of a fjord, which leads to the Gulf of Alaska. Whittier is only accessible via a 4.8-kilometer, single-lane tunnel shared by both traffic and trains! We hope everything is well synchronized! We have to wait 40 minutes for the next traffic slot. It’s 8 PM, so we decide to cook right on the waiting lane while waiting.

A motorhome pulls up near us. Four men get out and start talking to us. They are in Alaska to fish, like many other tourists. We’ve been chatting for 5 minutes, when one of them asks, “Do you like salmon?” Oh yes, we do! “I’ll give you one!” Seriously? That’s kind, but we don’t know how to prepare it! He reassures us: it’s already prepared, just needs to be cooked. He takes us to the back of the campervan, opens a huge cooler full of ice and salmon! They caught 23 today!! They offer us a massive fillet! Wow! Totally unexpected. We thank them a thousand times. We’re going to enjoy this! 😋

We arrive in Whittier around 10 PM. We set up camp on the outskirts of the city, facing an incredible view of the glacier overlooking the town.

At this point, we’re debating whether to set up the tent, but given the hour, we decide to sleep in the car. We don’t know it at the time, but it’s a very wise choice. Tomorrow morning, we will be woken up with a bang… by a bear! A somewhat scary surprise, the first of many to come! Indeed, the next few days on the incredible Kenai Peninsula, the heart of Alaska, promise to be full of adventures and wonders.

L’article United States, Alaska – Anchorage est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.