The time has come for our last article in Canada. Indeed, after more than three months on the road from Montreal, including one month in Alaska and two months exploring the Canadian Rockies and the Yukon, it’s time to move on to the next chapter of our Pan-American road trip: the United States! But before that, we’re off to explore one last Canadian stop: a road trip on Vancouver Island. To get there, we put Jeepy on a ferry from Horseshoe Bay, near Vancouver, to Nanaimo.

Saturday, August 27, 2022

Our Vancouver Island road trip starts at Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park. A short 30-minute walk takes us along a canyon with crystal-clear water.

But what really makes Vancouver Island famous are its vast, ancient rainforests. The most well-known is Cathedral Grove. We wander along the wooden walkways, amazed by the towering trees reaching ever higher to soak up the sun. Everything is damp, cold, and covered in moss. The atmosphere is heavy. The trees here are around 300 years old, and the oldest, tallest, and thickest of them all is over 800 years old, 76 meters high (250 ft.) and 9 meters around (30 ft.). That means it was already over 300 years old when Columbus landed in the Americas in 1492!

Vancouver Island’s rainforests are home to cougars, bears, wolves… and apparently, a monkey! 😁

After a quick stop at Hole in the Wall, we have a sunny picnic by Sproat Lake.

Then we head west toward Tofino. It’s a super popular spot, and we arrive on a Saturday in August, so yeah, it’s packed. Wild camping is strictly forbidden, and the campgrounds are insanely expensive. No way we’re paying $50 for a patch of woods with no services. So we head down a forest road and find a quiet spot deep in the woods for the night. Dinner at 6 p.m., and by 7, with night falling, we retreat to the Jeep to watch a show.

Sunday, August 28

Big day ahead! We’re on the road by 7:30 a.m., exploring Tofino’s surroundings and visiting Pacific Rim National Park, our last Canadian national park! The day is a mix of misty rainforest walks, stunning views of the Pacific, and long stretches of beach.

We see our first Pacific beach. And wow! Surfers, huge waves, the tide coming in, endless sand, shells, driftwood, and the ocean stretching to infinity. Here, we face the real Pacific Ocean. It is as we imagined it: cold, gray, vast, unwelcoming.

As the day goes on, the vibe changes completely. The sun burns off the fog, the water turns deep blue, more people arrive. It suddenly feels way more inviting. For swimming, we’ll wait for countries a bit further south 😀 But for now, we enjoy a picnic with our toes in the sand and a nap in the sun, lulled by the sound of the waves.

Later in the afternoon, we leave this part of the island looking for a nice place to camp. After an hour of driving, we find a riverside spot. By the time we finish cooking and eating, we end the evening in the dark. A noise behind the trees, in the darkness, bushes rustling… that’s all it takes to make us pack up in record time and dive into the Jeep to take refuge! These woods are seriously quite spooky 😅

Monday, August 29

This morning, we’re swimming! It’s 8 a.m., the sky’s gray, but the river’s crystal-clear calls to us. I stand on a rock, ready to dive. The water is very cold freezing. Rémi gets the camera ready and counts to three… Nope! Too cold! Take two. He counts again… I just can’t do it! Fine. Rémi takes my spot. I count to… Too late, he’s already jumped 😂 A refreshing dip that feels great.

After a pretty uneventful drive, except for a few goats on a rooftop, we reach an old railway trestle bridge. It’s a very beautiful wooden structure.

Tuesday, August 30

We leave early to visit Big Lonely Doug, Canada’s second-largest Douglas fir. It’s the only tree left standing after a clear-cut in 2011. Because it was especially tall and majestic, it was spared, and now towers alone over a devastated landscape.

Our Vancouver Island road trip continues south toward Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. It’s super hot, so we decide to stop at the beach for a swim! We bring gwimsuits, towels, and a picnic, and we follow a little path down to a sandy and pebbly beach. The place is stunning. We eat, sunbathe, read, nap in the sun… Swimming? Not really. We manage to dip our legs in, but the water is ice cold. Still, it’s refreshing enough!

Wednesday, August 31

Victoria! The capital of British Columbia is a beautiful city. The weather is nice and warm as we stroll through the downtown and harbor, discovering this human-scale city. Chinatown, shopping streets, Parliament, floating houses. Everything is very cute!

We stroll around until 5 p.m., when we have to head to the port, ferry time! But first, a mandatory stop at the American border. We get a brand-new visa 😎 Here we come, USA! At 7:30 p.m., we board the ferry. The sunset over the city is absolutely stunning. We share the crossing with Carine and Adelin, two French travelers living in Victoria who are about to start a five-week road trip in the U.S. It was great hanging out, have a fantastic trip! P.S. We’re seriously jealous of your mattress 😄

This marks the end of a 16-week journey that started in Montreal, Quebec, took us through Ontario and the Great Lakes, then into the central provinces of Manitoba and Saskatchewan, before reaching Alberta. We absolutely loved Alberta and its iconic national parks and breathtaking landscapes. But Alberta was just the beginning.

From there, we headed north to reach the Yukon. What can we say? We fell in love with this province and its wild nature. It’s where we experienced one of the greatest adventures of our lives (so far): the Dempster Highway, which took us beyond the Arctic Circle and all the way to the Arctic Ocean. A dream come true. After an unforgettable time in Alaska, we concluded up our Canadian adventure in our final province: beautiful British Columbia. Since leaving Montreal, we have driven over 20,000 kilometers (12500 miles)!

It’s time to close this chapter and open a new one, one that promises countless more surprises and adventures: The United States of America, starting with Washington State and the Olympic Peninsula… But first, customs. We arrive in Port Angeles at night, where the customs agent makes us empty our fridge… He takes our tomatoes, bell peppers, grapes, onion, eggs, peaches, mushrooms… Oh wait, he catches up to us and says we can actually keep the mushrooms. And the onion too. The rest? “Not good.” With a thank-you for our honesty, he waves us through. Here we go: more than four months of road-tripping through the U.S. ahead!

L’article Canada, BC – End of our journey in Canada on Vancouver Island est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

We’ve made it at last! After hundreds of kilometers and several days on the road from Alaska, we finally arrive in Vancouver, one of Canada’s largest cities, and one that definitely has its charms. Lively, vibrant, full of flowers, and welcoming, our visit to Vancouver coincides with incredible weather, which certainly helps us fall under its spell. Perfect timing, as we’re on the lookout for a new place to settle after our trip 😉 (Spoiler alert after 2.5 years of travel: we ended up moving back to Montreal!).

Wednesday, August 24, 2022

After some stunning hikes in Squamish and Whistler, we still manage to find the energy to explore Lighthouse Park. This small park at the edge of the city offers a beautiful view of Vancouver’s skyline at sunset.

Then it’s time to explore Vancouver! But first, one big question: where do you sleep in a city this big? We drive through North Vancouver, winding our way through quaint little streets lined with gorgeous, luxurious homes facing the bay. Eventually, we find a quiet spot near a neighborhood park to spend the night. We enjoy a picnic as locals swim, play, and paddle into the evening. Then we discreetly slip into the car for a very warm night on a small parking lot.

Thursday, August 25

The city is hit by a suffocating heatwave. So we take refuge in a neighborhood bookstore, where we spend the day working in air-conditioned comfort. It’s not until 5 p.m. that we emerge. What now? On a whim, we decide to head downtown! After three months on the road, two of them in the least populated parts of North America, the Yukon and Alaska, we had almost forgotten what a big city feels like! And of course, 5 p.m. on a Thursday means rush hour. It takes us an hour to drive just 3 kilometers. Eventually, we cross the Lions Gate Bridge and reach Stanley Park.

Stanley Park is to Vancouver what Central Park is to New York: a massive green space filled with walkers, swimmers, cyclists, and runners. On this hot day, it’s packed with people. We stroll along the Seawall, a 28-kilometer (17 miles) path that hugs the Pacific Ocean and offers lovely views of downtown. We really like the vibe, especially at sunset.

Afterwards, we venture into the heart of Vancouver. Our Jeep rolls down the main avenue and weaves between towering buildings. It’s impressive. It’s beautiful. The setting sun reflects off the skyscrapers in a dazzling orange glow. The whole city buzzes with activity. On this warm summer evening, the wide boulevards pulse with people, music, lights, and blooming vegetation. We are charmed by the urban energy and ambiance. Makes us wonder how much does it cost to live here? 😀 At the foot of ski slopes, just a stone’s throw from the incredible Canadian Rockies we loved so much…

But above all, Vancouver has one major advantage over Montreal (which we also love): the beach!!! Yes, Vancouver has its feet in the water. As night falls, we head to the city’s largest beach: Jericho Beach. Waves, fine sand, picnic tables, people swimming, strolling, playing, eating, relaxing… It all has the feel of a seaside resort we hadn’t experienced in a while. We savor a delicious tomato salad and tzatziki by the bay, feet in the sand, in the dark. Pure happiness. With windows down and wind in our hair, we drive back through a brilliantly lit and lively Vancouver. For the first time on our trip, we sleep in a Walmart parking lot.

Friday, August 26

This morning, we have a mission of great importance: fix our top drawer. Lately, it’s been getting stuck, because a screw came loose from all the vibrations. It’s no small job, we spend over 3 hours on it! Thankfully, we’d planned ahead and settled in a hardware store parking lot.

Another thing we loved during our visit to Vancouver: the Persian grocery stores! We stocked up on fresh produce, delicious fruits and vegetables, plus pita bread and tzatziki. A real treat! 😋

After some shopping and a tasty burger at Five Guys, it’s time to catch the ferry.

Indeed, after our quick tour of Vancouver, we board a 1h45 ferry to Vancouver Island, where we’ll spend a few days. It’s actually the final stage of our Canadian road trip! After that, we’ll leave our adopted country behind and head off toward new adventures.

L’article Canada, BC – Vancouver est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Just a few kilometers from Vancouver lies a paradise for outdoor sports enthusiasts: mountain biking, climbing, bouldering, trail running. For us, it will be all about hiking! Hikes at Joffre Lakes, Whistler, and then Squamish, we are tackling the region’s iconic trails. They will get our legs burning, but the stunning views will make it all worth it!

Monday, August 22, 2022

We were craving warmth, ever since Wells Gray Provincial Park, and now we’re getting plenty of it! The Vancouver area is in the middle of a relentless heatwave, with temperatures climbing over 30°C (86°F) during the day. We are thrilled 😁 After all, we seriously lacked warmth during our road trip through the Far North, the Yukon, and Alaska. We hit the road early, excited for the beautiful and popular hike at Joffre Lakes. But at the parking entrance, we are asked for our day pass. A pass? Oops, didn’t know we needed that. To limit crowds on the trail, hikers now need to book a free day-use pass online. So, no Joffre Lakes hike for us today. But no worries, there’s no shortage of great hikes around here!

We drive to Whistler, Vancouver’s ski resort and one of the largest in Canada. From there, we take a short hike along the river. It’s lovely… and very hot! Luckily, we cool off with a dip in the lake. What do you mean, up to the knees doesn’t count, Rémi says? Pff.

We then go for a walk around Whistler. It’s a major tourist hotspot. In summer, the ski resort transforms into a mountain biker’s paradise: freeride, downhill, trail, everything from beginner trails to pro-level blacks. And yes, it’s packed with people! We stroll through the village streets under a blazing 32°C (90°F) sun. Everything is beautiful, clean, welcoming, practical, well-built and well thought-out, no surprise since Whistler hosted the Winter Olympics in 2010. The legacy lives on!

Finding a place to camp near Whistler isn’t easy, campsites here go for $50 a night. We manage to find a quiet spot at the end of a forest road and enjoy a peaceful evening, briefly interrupted by a hiker who warns us that a bear has been spotted nearby. For the first time ever, as we wash dishes in the dark, we put some music… just in case 😅

Tuesday, August 23

Back to the iconic hike at Joffre Lakes, one of the most popular in the Whistler area. This time, we’ve got our pass and are ready to discover the three lakes!

🥾 Joffre Lakes – 9.7 km (5.6 miles), 400 m elevation gain

The first lake is just a five-minute walk from the parking lot. Its stunning turquoise color reminds us of the lakes in the Canadian Rockies.

From there, it’s a steep climb to the second lake. But eventually, we catch a glimpse of its blue waters through the trees.

Finally, the third lake sits right below the glacier that feeds it.

Later, as we drive through Whistler’s lively town center, we are stuck in traffic on a busy two-lane road. Tim Hortons on the right, upscale homes on the left. We are waiting at a red light when suddenly, between two cars… a brown bear darts across the road! 😲 It sprints between vehicles and disappears into the roadside bushes, right in front of the Tim’s. Whoa! Where did he come from?! We are a bit worried for him, but the light turns green, and we have to move on.

We continue to the town of Squamish. Dominated by a massive monolith, this outdoor playground is a climber’s dream. The local campground is packed, and all the vans and vehicles without a spot are stealth camping nearby despite the “No Overnight Parking” signs. There are so many people! Every car has a makeshift bed, every van is packed with climbing gear, every tent houses a climber. We arrive early enough to grab a spot in the parking lot, where we meet up with Fransisca, Antoine, and Lucas, friends we met in Carcross, Yukon We spend a great evening together!

Wednesday, August 24

Another hot and beautiful day ahead. By morning, our parking lot is bustling with people. Everyone is leaving early to enjoy their passion in the cool. No climbing for us today, just a long, intense hike!

🥾 The Chief Trail – 6.9 km (3.7 miles), 700 m elevation gain

Time to climb the three peaks overlooking the town. Fortunately, the ascent begins in the woods, at the foot of the cliffs, where it’s relatively cool. We reach the first summit via a series of wooden steps and natural stone staircases. It’s a steep climb that gets the heart racing. Soon, the stairs and natural steps are not enough: we have to climb the rock using ladders and chains.

We finally reach the first summit after a tough climb.

The second summit doesn’t look far… as the crow flies! But to reach it, we first have to descend into the forest and then scramble back up a trail that’s more rock climbing than hiking. It’s exhausting, but we love it.

Finally, we make it to the third and highest summit, which towers over the first two.

After a well-earned break… it’s time to head back down! It’s a long, grueling descent through an ancient forest, where massive trees grow on the cliffside. We clamber down for over an hour before finally reaching the stairs and descending all the way back to the parking lot. What a beautiful hike! Brutal, but incredibly rewarding.

After a well-deserved ice cream, we’re in desperate need of a cold shower. We find a free one at a gym in Horseshoe Bay, but the temperature isn’t adjustable. For once, when we want a cold shower, we get a scorching hot one! 😅 Then it’s time to hit the road again. After several weeks of traveling south from Alaska… it’s finally time for us to explore Vancouver!

L’article Canada, BC – Hikes at Joffre Lakes, Whistler, and Squamish est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Now that our incredible two-month loop through the Canadian Far North and Alaska has come to an end, we turn to the next sights of our Pan-American road trip. Sure, our ultimate destination is Ushuaia. But there’s a long road ahead before we get there! Our next short-term goal? Vancouver! But from the bear-viewing boardwalk in Hyder, where we witnessed some unforgettable scenes of grizzlies fishing for salmon, to Vancouver, there are nearly 1,500 kilometers (900 miles) of road! Several long driving days lie ahead, filled with scorching heat and refreshing stops. Here’s the story of our travel adventures and our discovery of an underrated natural park: Wells Gray Provincial Park.

Wednesday, August 17, 2022

Lakes are never in short supply in Canada. So every time we need a break from driving to eat, we pull over at a lakeside spot. Breakfast by a misty lake, calm and damp. Lunch in the shade near another lake, under sweltering heat. Dessert grows on the trees: tons of blueberries, raspberries, and sour cherries.

We had planned to cover a lot of ground, but as usual, things don’t go as planned. In the early afternoon, the phone rings: northern lights alert for tonight. Since we are heading south at full speed, it’s now or never. So we backtrack 20 kilometers and settle in a wide-open field. The spot has a perfect northern view. It’s 4 p.m. and since we rarely stop this early, we take full advantage: a nap in the shade of the tent, some reading, cooking, and gathering firewood. It’s finally warm and sunny. What a pleasure to camp without freezing our butts off! We loved Alaska, but let’s be honest, it wasn’t exactly warm! And with a rooftop tent, we are very exposed to the elements. Tonight, for the first time in a long time, no thick socks, no extra layers!

When evening comes, after a few toasted marshmallows, we head to bed full of hope. We sleep with the “windows” open, our heads under the stars, the alarm set to go off every hour… But we are disappointed. Probably already too far south, and the aurora lost intensity throughout the evening, we see nothing. We are bummed. We saw it all in the North, but not the aurora, since it wasn’t really the right season. Oh well, we will have to come back 😉

Thursday, August 18

As the kilometers roll by, the landscape changes. There is no doubt, we are leaving the Far North behind. Human presence becomes more and more visible, until the endless forests give way to farms and fields. The big novelty today: we found a bakery, like a real one! And we bought our first baguette. A little taste of France that made us so happy 😋 Oh, and it’s 31°C (88°F). We wanted heat, we got it!

The road is long, stressful, and boiling hot. Everyone is in a rush… except us. At our 80 km/h (50 mph) average (70 km/h uphill), we get passed by cars, RVs, and giant trucks which don’t bother with solid lines, curves, or oncoming traffic. Are people crazy in this country?! To top it off, we are driving the “Highway of Tears,” nicknamed this way because many young girls and women, most of them Indigenous, have gone missing or were murdered along this route. A big sign even warns: “Girls don’t hitchhike on the Highway of Tears.” Lovely…

After 400 kilometers (250 miles), we find a free campground by a lake. It’s already packed with weekend campers, but we still manage to snag a small spot by the water. Everyone is super friendly, within 15 minutes we are offered a boat ride and a kayak trip. But we are way too tired to accept. We spend a quiet evening after the frenzy of the road, still enjoying the unusually warm weather. Plus, we bought corn from a roadside stand, which we grilled, and a perfectly chilled melon 😋

Friday, August 19

Out of the 600 kilometers (380 miles) we planned to cover today, we only manage… 60 (38)! Our stop in Prince George, the big city around here, turns into a full day at the library and an oil change for Jeepy, who definitely needed it after his big Yukon and Alaska loop. On a whim, we decide to leave this hellish road and take a secondary route through the Rockies instead, adding over 200 kilometers (120 miles). Hopefully, it will be a bit more peaceful.

Saturday, August 20

Today, we are driving, no excuses! We only pause our journey for a cheap shower at a gym and an omelet. This secondary route, which we thought would be quieter and prettier, is not. The roadside is wrecked by the construction of a… pipeline! Yep, in 2022, they are still building pipelines in Canada. Apparently, the golden age of oil isn’t over yet. What a mess. That evening, we stop in the town of Clearwater. It’s still really hot, and we are loving it. For the past few days, it feels like we have entered a whole new kind of trip. Warm nights in a rooftop tent? Game changer 😎

Sunday, August 21

Waterfall day! Today we visit Wells Gray Provincial Park, a park absolutely full of waterfalls, over 80 of them! We won’t have time to see them all, but we explore the four main ones!

Spahats Creek Falls

A beautiful waterfall that seems to burst right out of the rock.

Helmcken Falls

The fourth-highest waterfall in Canada.

Dawson Falls

Moul Falls

This one is the most fun of all! After a 2.9 kms (1.8 miles) hike under scorching heat, fueled by lots of wild raspberries, we reach the base of the falls. Feeling hot? No problem! Just walk behind the waterfall for an instant cold shower!

After this refreshing day and an ice cream in town, we hit the road again despite the late hour. Vancouver seems close now, but we still have some beautiful places to discover before we get there. We begin the Sea to Sky Highway (or the reverse, in our case), which offers us to stunning scenery, arid valleys, deep canyons, and steep mountainsides.

When evening comes, we find the perfect campsite: a beautiful free campsite. It’s still very hot. But night falls quickly, and we end up cooking in the dark. Where did our Yukon endless daylight go? We miss it already 😁 We unfold the rooftop tent and sleep with all windows open, lulled by a gentle breeze.

After several long driving days and hundreds of kilometers, we leave behind Wells Gray Provincial Park and the Sea to Sky Highway and arrive at the doorstep of Vancouver. And after all this time in the car, we really need to stretch our legs. And what better place to enjoy nature than Whistler and Squamish, outdoor sports paradises just outside Vancouver! 🥾

L’article Canada, British Columbia – Waterfalls in Wells Gray Provincial Park est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

You’re probably wondering how we managed to survive crossing a desert on foot? And anyway, since when is there a desert in Canada? Time to clear things up: the Carcross Desert is actually the smallest desert in the world! So really, it was more of a pleasant stroll than a real expedition 😁 A nice way to change the scenery after our bear encounters in Haines.

Wednesday, August 10 to Friday, August 12, 2022

Five weeks later, after an epic expedition to the Arctic Ocean and an incredible road trip through Alaska, we are back in Whitehorse. Whitehorse, the capital of Yukon, is a remote yet lively city we really like. Our return marks the end of our loop in the Far North. From here, we head south. But before hitting the road, we take full advantage of the city’s amenities: showers, laundry, grocery shopping, catching up with friends, and most importantly, WiFi at the public library. We spend two full days working, breaking only to enjoy a delicious salmon tartare (bought in Haines) with avocado. Yum! 😋

Late afternoon, we hit the road with a special goal: August is well underway, and our chances to see the Northern Lights are finally increasing. Tonight’s forecast is good. So we need an open spot facing north 🤞🤞. After an hour of searching, we find a promising place: a pine forest clearing with a clear view due north. Perfect. August evenings are still long, so we have to wait until midnight for the last daylight to fade.

We lie down in the tent, “windows open,” and set multiple alarms through the night. But, to our great disappointment, no Northern Lights appear. Still, it’s just a matter of time because Yukon will eventually offer us to one of Nature’s greatest shows. On the bright side, it’s Perseid meteor shower time. Despite a bright full moon, we enjoy some beautiful shooting stars.

Saturday, August 13

After two days in the city, we are thrilled to reconnect with the real Yukon wilderness we love so much. But just an hour southeast of Whitehorse, the nature we find is unlike what we are used to. Indeed, the small town of Carcross seems to have its own microclimate. Its lakes are fringed with… pine forests! Feels like home, minus the cicadas! But in Carcross, a strange natural phenomenon created a unique ecosystem, at least in Canada: a desert!

Technically, since the climate here is neither dry nor hot, Carcross Desert isn’t a true desert. It’s actually the remnants of an ancient glacial lake. About 10,000 years ago, when glaciers melted, they formed glacial lakes with sandy and muddy bottoms. When those lakes vanished, the river still carried sand here, hence the sand dunes! These dunes are considered the smallest desert in the world! So yes, we crossed the Carcross Desert on foot, but in 30 minutes!

Near the desert lies the village of Carcross. It’s charming, and we enjoy strolling around under bright sunshine. The town’s buildings are decorated with iconic Indigenous designs from the Tlingit and Tagish First Nations who lived here. We also meet Francisca and Antoine, traveling from France in a beautiful Defender with a Globe Camper camper shell. So cool! Safe travels, friends 😊

We then picnic among the desert dunes, where Jeepy handles the sandy terrain like a pro! What a perfect picnic spot: sand, pine trees, just like home, except the salmon in our tartare comes from Alaska! 😎

The southern junction is just before Watson Lake, where we were five weeks ago. And like before, the place is swarming with mosquitoes. We barely dealt with mosquitoes in Alaska or elsewhere in Yukon, so it’s like they all gather around Watson Lake! We find a nice, clear spot by the river facing north, but the mosquitoes are in the thousands. Having learned our lesson, it takes us less than five minutes to decide to flee. Too bad for the beautiful spot. Instead, we park in the famous signpost forest parking lot in Watson Lake.

We stroll through the sign forest, sharing an ice cream, searching for the sign from Eric and Muriel that we missed on the way in! It is doing great, friends! Still as beautiful and hasn’t aged a bit despite the cold and snow!

Sunday, August 14

Because we need days like this to keep moving forward, this Sunday is a day on the road. We head straight south under blazing sun and scorching heat, finally leaving Yukon for good, with a heavy heart, as we enter British Columbia. To cool off, we stop for lunch at Boya Lake, famous for its crystal-clear water. The place feels almost paradisiacal. With a lakeside campground, picnic tables, and a dock, it’s perfect to relax and have lunch, and for Rémi to take a dip in the lake. Watch out, it’s cold! 😂

We make a quick stop at Jade City, where shops sell some jade trinkets at astronomical prices.

Then, we cover the kilometers until late in the evening. And late means wildlife encounters! First, a bear with her cub. The cub is busy climbing while mom feeds in the ravine. We pull over at the roadside, and they cross! Finally, our much-awaited photo of a bear family crossing the road! Jackpot 😍 A few kilometers further, more bears! This time, a mother bear with one, then two, then three cubs! They run everywhere. The youngest lags behind on the other side of the road. Mom hesitates to cross back to fetch him, but the other two cubs have already wandered off into the woods. Finally, the little one sprints to catch up with his family!

It’s past 9 PM when we settle by a lake. Now that we are heading south and summer is waning, we will have to relearn to stop earlier as night falls faster. Tomorrow, we hit the road back to Alaska for two final emotional and memorable days in Hyder, in that American state that is already our favorite (how’s that, it’s our first?)! 😁

L’article Canada, Yukon – Crossing the Carcross Desert on Foot! est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

After three weeks in Alaska, we are back in the Yukon, Canada. During our Alaska road trip, we discovered exceptional landscapes, breathtaking fjords, impressive glaciers, vast and wild national parks, and abundant wildlife. But there’s one thing we dreamed of seeing and hadn’t yet: bears fishing for salmon! We heard about a place where this is possible, with a bit of luck and patience. So, we head to Haines, a small Alaskan village. But to reach Haines, we first need to cross back through Canada and the stunning Kluane National Park.

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

After visiting the old ghost mine of Kennecott, we cross the border into Canada. We are back on the mythical Alaska Highway, where we had so many adventures on the way there… but this time, in reverse! It’s always a pleasure to return to this magnificent road, whose landscapes never fail to leave us speechless. As always on the Alaska Highway, wildlife encounters are plentiful: bald eagles, black bears, swans.

As we cover the kilometers, the vast boreal forest dotted with lakes gives way to mountainous terrain: we are entering Kluane National Park, home to Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan. Let’s gain some altitude to better admire Kluane Park. We get up early to tackle one of the park’s most beautiful hikes!

🥾 King’s Throne – 9.6 km (5.6 miles), 1000 m elevation gain

After a two very flat kilometers along Lake Kathleen, the real challenge begins. We gain over 1000 meters in elevation (3300 ft.) in less than 3 kilometers (1.8 miles). In short: it’s VERY steep! The trail is very rugged, but we gain height quickly, and the view gradually unfolds before us.

Two kilometers from the summit, we are forced to stop: powerful winds are nearly knocking us over. It’s impossible to stand against the wind. With steep drop-offs on either side of the trail, it becomes truly dangerous. We find shelter under a rocky outcrop to enjoy our picnic, safe from the wind, with a spectacular view.

After a grueling descent in howling winds, we stop by the lake to cool off. The wind is still blowing hard and the water is ice-cold! You can probably tell from our faces 😅

Exhausted but so happy with the beautiful hike, we hit the road again. And what a road! It winds through changing landscapes: first vast grasslands that remind us of Denali National Park, then across a windy pass, past rushing rivers, and finally through an old coniferous forest. Driving through the Yukon is always a delight! The roadside is dotted with bear scat, which Rémi enjoys counting, but no actual bears in sight.

We arrive in Haines at 7 p.m., after a quick border crossing. Yep, Haines is in Alaska! We are here for one specific reason: to see bears fishing for salmon.

This small fishing village lies at the end of a fjord. To leave, you must either take a ferry to Skagway or drive back the way you came. There are lovely chalets with views by the bay and estuary, loads of bald eagles, and many fishing boats taking advantage of the salmon season. But they’re not the only ones! In Haines, with a bit of luck, you can spot bears fishing for salmon too!

We head straight to the Chilkoot River, a well-known salmon river in the area. And from the moment we arrive, we are not disappointed: a mama bear and her two cubs are in the middle of a fishing session! They are fishing directly from the metal structure used to monitor the salmon run. Park staff use it for fish counts, already over 50,000 salmon since July! At the moment, no one’s on duty, and the three bears have taken over. Quite a spectacle! With so many salmon, fishing seems easy for this mother bear, she just has to reach down and grab one. The real challenge is keeping some for herself, with two very hungry cubs at her side!

We find a roadside spot to camp for the night, not too far from the river. Our goal: come back early tomorrow morning to see the bears again!

Wednesday, August 10

We are barely awake before we are on the road to the Chilkoot River again. Driving along the water, on the lookout, and suddenly: what’s that grazing over there? Cows? Bison? Nope, bears!! We’re definitely in bear country! A mom and her three big cubs, grazing in the grass! What a surprise.

As they move off into the estuary, we realize they are heading toward the woods and will cross the road. Without hesitation, we take the car and go park by the roadside, where we think they will cross. Then, camera in hand, we wait. And wait. Then suddenly, there they are, crossing… behind us! Darn it, bad calculation 😀

There are no bears at the river this morning, so we decide to kill time by… mushroom picking! We venture into the woods behind the campground, looking for porcini mushrooms. Honestly, not the best idea right after seeing four grizzlies in the area. The harvest is good: two large porcini and a bolete. We double-check our finds with a knowledgeable German couple. Just in case. For lunch: sautéed wild mushrooms!

Back at the river, the same mama bear from yesterday has reappeared. Not shy, she has just been “gazed” by a park employee, who was counting salmon on the bridge. The employee, very used to this, reassures us: the bear will be back soon. And indeed, a few minutes later, there she is! No sign of her cubs. Now that the employee is gone, she resumes her fishing from the same spot and quickly gets to work. With her sharp claws, she grabs the salmon with ease, guts them with her teeth, and devours them, everything except the head!

Back in Haines, we stroll through the village and stock up on a few groceries to go with our freshly picked mushrooms. Dinner is a wild mushroom sauté with fries (not homemade, sadly, no time), green beans, and a good steak. We eat it all in the car, sheltered from the rain, facing the bay.

Before leaving Haines, we return to the river for one last chance to see the bears. Unfortunately, the place is now full of fishermen. No bears, but we do enjoy watching a majestic bald eagle. Rémi has developed a bit of a passion with eagles, he’s determined to get the perfect shot. Which is not easy, since they always perch way up high, out of reach. But he’s doing a great job 😉

We loved watching the bears fish for salmon so much that we will definitely return to the Chilkoot River on our way back from our trip! Now it’s time for the long drive back to Canada. We had planned to take the ferry, but the cost is outrageous and the next one isn’t for another three days. So, we’re preparing to take the long road back to the Alaska Highway and onward to Whitehorse, nearly 400 km (250 miles), passing through the improbable Carcross Desert. As we cross the border out of Alaska—America’s 49th state—we spot our 49th bear by the roadside. A beautiful coincidence 😊 Either way, we are thrilled to have finally seen bears fishing for salmon in Alaska!

L’article Canada, Yukon, and Alaska – Hiking in Kluane National Park and salmon fishing in Haines est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

When you’re about to drive more than 800 km (500 miles) of gravel road with your expedition Jeep to reach the Arctic Ocean, let’s just say it smells like pure adventure! A road to the ends of the earth, the Dempster Highway connects the town of Dawson City to Inuvik over 734 km (456 miles). It crosses two Canadian provinces, Yukon and the Northwest Territories, and even passes through the Arctic Circle! Beyond Inuvik, a new road built in 2017 allows you to drive an additional 140 km (90 miles) to reach the Arctic Ocean. The Arctic Ocean! Our wildest dream. So, are you ready for a road trip on the Dempster Highway with a Jeep?

Saturday, July 9, 2022

A legendary route for all travelers, the Dempster Highway is both admired and feared. Since we started our journey across Canada, we have heard a lot about this road. The main thing being that we’ll be completely on our own. On the Dempster, there’s no mobile service. No towing, no emergency services. Very few gas stations. Trucks speeding past. Extreme dust conditions causing terrible visibility. A bumpy road where anything can happen. Stories of travelers’ misadventures haunt our minds. So, when we leave the pavement behind for more than 800 kilometers of gravel, we are filled with both excitement and caution. Jeepy, we’re counting on you, don’t let us down! 🤘

The first few kilometers are nerve-wracking. When a truck approaches, we pull over. When a car comes, we slow down. If no one’s around, we drive in the middle. The Dempster’s shoulders are known to be steep, ending up in the ditch is not an option. We drive with headlights and fog lights on. We have deflated the tires, remembering that last summer, before setting off on our Pan-American road trip, a tiny rock destroyed our Jeep on a much less rough road than this one. Little by little, we settle into the drive and start to admire the scenery.

After 80 kilometers, we pull over for our first night on the Dempster. As expected, the mosquitoes show up, but the situation is manageable. We pitch the tent and sleep by the river, lulled by the sound of the water.

Sunday, July 10

Jeepy speeds along the road in a cloud of dust. There’s hardly anyone, just a few cars from time to time, a few (very brave) cyclists, and a caribou around a bend. The vastness and beauty of the landscapes unfolding with each kilometer leave us speechless.

By late afternoon, after about 300 kilometers, we make a stop at Eagle Plains to refuel. Aside from the gas station, there’s a campground and a motel. The motel dates back to the road’s construction in 1978, and not much has changed since, certainly not the carpet on the floor. Yet the price for a room is $225, with an extra charge… for the second person! Insane. Shower? $10 per person! No thanks. We drive a few more kilometers to find a “room with a view” by the river. Apparently, a pack of wolves has also made this place their home. We enjoy a wonderfully warm outdoor shower, what a treat!

At midnight, despite the fatigue and swarms of mosquitoes, we step outside to witness the midnight sun. A magical and emotional moment… the first of many on this road.

Monday, July 11

Today is a big day: after nearly two months of travel from Montreal and over 400 km on the Dempster, we have breakfast at the Arctic Circle! It feels unreal. PS: It’s 19°C that day on the Arctic Circle. Not so bad! We meet up again Juliette and Simon, Quebecers we met yesterday at Eagle Plains, whom we will cross paths a few more times along the road! Cheers, friends!

A few kilometers later, we cross another milestone on the road: we leave the Yukon and enter a new Canadian province: the Northwest Territories. A wild place where few travelers venture.

In this remote province, the tundra reigns supreme: a desert-like and inhospitable landscape swept by glacial winds. Hard to imagine what it must be like in the heart of winter! Definitely not a good place to break down. The road winds through this endless expanse. We scan the horizon which stretches as far as the eye can see, hoping to spot a grizzly, a moose, a caribou, any sign of life. But no luck.

After several hours of driving, we stop at Fort McPherson for a picnic and to refuel: on the Dempster, never skip a gas stop! This small town of 900 people has a few houses, a grocery store, and a gas station. With its old buildings and dusty roads, it’s not exactly welcoming. Imagine what it’s like in winter! Two short, free, on-demand ferries take us across the Mackenzie River and then the Peel River.

Then it’s back on the road for more long hours. An endless straight line of 150 km leads us to Inuvik, where, surprise, the road is paved! What a joy to drive on smooth asphalt. It’s like taking off ski boots after a day on the slopes 😂 Inuvik is the largest Canadian settlement north of the Arctic Circle. The average annual temperature? -8°C 😲 With 3,500 residents, there’s a church, a bank, a grocery store, and even an aquatic center, where we take a nearly warm shower. At least we’re no longer dusty!

We happen to arrive in Inuvik during the Great Northern Arts Festival, the world’s longest polar festival (ten days). We take the opportunity to enjoy the evening’s entertainment: a show about the Arctic sports of the indigenous peoples… Oh wait, it’s canceled. The person who was supposed to lead the show didn’t show up 😅 Well, it’s 9 p.m. Should we go to bed? Nope! On a whim, we decide to drive to Tuktoyaktuk. Why not, after all? Here, the day never ends, so we won’t be driving at night! Off we go for over two hours on a rough road, with a thick fog setting in.

We arrive in Tuktoyaktuk (pronounced Tuk-tu-yaaq-tuuq), or just “Tuk,” at midnight. Despite the late hour, the village is lively: a baseball game is going strong and kids are riding their bikes in the street. Everyone makes the most of these long summer days. Here, we are far from the picturesque little fishing village. Everything is raw, authentic, and unfiltered. This Inuvialuit (Inuit) hamlet is home to 900 people. In the Inuvialuit language, Tuktoyaktuk means “resembling a caribou.”

Tuk has been only welcoming travelers since 2017, when the final section of road was built. Given the journey it takes to get here, visitors are still rare. Before the road was built, Tuk was only accessible by car in winter thanks to the ice road. For now, the village relies mainly on fishing (especially beluga), hunting, and trapping. We learn at the tourist office, a temporary bungalow while a real building is being constructed, that the music group Metallica once played a concert here a few years ago! Pretty cool.

It was 37°C (98°F) just a few days ago. But we’re too late: today, a thick fog has fallen over the village, and it’s freezing cold! We settle in and spend a quiet night facing the Arctic Ocean.

Tuesday, July 12

We wake up early, facing the Arctic Ocean. Wow! That alone gives us chills. And not just because of the weather! Well, okay, a little from that too. No miracle this morning: the fog is still thick, and the wind is icy. But we’re overjoyed to pose in front of the famous sign and immortalize this magical moment. We are facing the Arctic Ocean, and we got here by car! 😎✌️ We drove the entire Dempster Highway with our Jeep, starting from Montreal!

Braving the cold and wind, we take a walk around the hamlet. The main attraction is the schooner Our Lady of Lourdes. For over 20 years (in the 1930s and 40s), it served as a supply ship for Catholic missions between Tuk and the neighboring province of Nunavut. We were also told to try the local food at Grandma’s Kitchen (the only restaurant), but we’re greeted with hot dogs, pizza, and burgers at sky-high prices. The only local dish? Beluga. It hurts our hearts to eat whale, so we pass and prefer to stroll through the streets to soak up the authentic atmosphere.

But it’s impossible to leave Tuk without having dipped our hands in the Arctic Ocean. We would have loved to swim in it, but today, that’s guaranteed hypothermia! No regrets though, as we’ll get our revenge when we swim in the Southern Ocean near Ushuaia at the end of our Pan-American road trip, and again in Alaska’s Arctic Ocean at the end of the Dalton Highway on our way back!

We leave Tuk in the afternoon to return to Inuvik, hoping to find some warmth and less wind. But first, we refuel the Jeep, running out of gas out here is not an option! Fuel is insanely expensive, so we empty one of our reserve tanks.

No luck with the warmth; it’s just as cold in Inuvik. Besides, the evening concert, part of the festival, has been moved indoors to the hockey stadium. We attend the concert of a local group: the Beluga Boys.

Wednesday, July 13

Now that we’ve reached the ends of the earth… it’s time to go back! A long drive awaits us as we retrace our steps down the Dempster Highway. Fog, rain, sun, dust, wildlife, endless scenery, and breathtaking landscapes: today we cover more than 500 km (300 miles), quite a feat considering we average 80 km/h. In the late afternoon, a dark cloud looms on the horizon. We can feel a storm coming! Worse still: a real hailstorm hits us! Fortunately, it passes in 5 minutes.

For our last night on the Dempster Highway, we bivouac in a riverbed. It’s cool, and this coolness has a big advantage: no mosquitoes (or almost)!

Thursday, July 14

The final kilometers of the Dempster Highway. We stop for a short hike in Tombstone Territorial Park to stretch our legs after days on the road.

The end of an adventure! Suddenly, the dusty gravel gives way to smooth pavement. Wow! Back to civilization. It feels like returning from another world. So many emotions knowing this long-awaited journey is coming to an end. We did it! We drove the entire Dempster Highway in our expedition Jeep and dipped a hand into the Arctic Ocean. Pure happiness! We are proud and beyond thrilled with what we have accomplished. And Jeepy definitely needs a good wash! 😆

Mission accomplished in Canada. Now, it’s time to move on to the next part of our journey, which promises to be just as incredible. In one word: Alaska.

L’article Canada, Yukon, NWT – Midnight Sun, Arctic Circle, and Arctic Ocean: Story of Our Journey on the Dempster Highway est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Over more than 2,500 kilometers (1,500 miles), the legendary Alaska Highway led us from the Canadian Rockies to the capital of the Yukon, Whitehorse. Almost two months after leaving Montreal, we can finally say we’ve made it to the Great North. The Yukon, with its untouched, mountainous landscapes, endless forests, wild animals, tundra, remote towns, and gold rush history. We are eager to explore the Yukon, from Whitehorse to Dawson City. But first, we must face the wildfires, a real scourge that ravages this Canadian province every year.

Wednesday, July 6, 2022

Welcome to Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon, and also the largest city in Northern Canada! Nearly 26,000 people live here, which is about 75% of the Yukon’s entire population! We’re glad to be here in the summer, because we can’t even imagine what kind of winters they must endure, so far north 😅 For now, it’s warm, sunny, and everything is green and beautiful. We’re already charmed by Whitehorse.

However, the city is in turmoil: there’s no internet. Just our luck! After nearly five days on the road along the Alaska Highway, we have work to catch up on. The general outage is supposedly due to fires farther north that have burned through some cables. Everything is down. We wait in line at the bank with half the town to withdraw some cash, since no machines are working in shops, and Jeepy needs an oil change. Then we settle in at Tim’s and try to catch a few drops of bandwidth to get some work done. Easier said than done…

In the evening, we order a pizza and eat it near the city’s dam. It’s particularly pleasant. Before going to bed, we enjoy a magnificent sunset at 11 pm. These endless days are just as magical as they are fascinating!

Thursday, July 7

Good news: the internet is back! Just like the day before, but without the network struggle, we spend the day at Tim’s from 8 am to 7 pm. Then, we go for groceries, refuel (including our two 20-liter jerry cans, since gas stations are rare in the Yukon), and stop by the visitor center to get some info. Fires are still burning along the road, and some sections are closed. At 10 p.m., we pick up takeout from a Chinese restaurant and head back to the same overnight spot.

Friday, July 8

We spend the morning strolling through Whitehorse, with its streets lined with historic Gold Rush-era buildings. The contrast between the perfectly preserved vintage structures and the city’s modern vibe is pretty amusing: a Sport Expert store inside a historic building, old murals showing scenes from the Gold Rush, vintage parking meters, charming period homes that are still lived in. We are captivated by the city’s cinema, preserved… in its original state. We love it!

At the entrance to town stands the SS Klondike II. This massive boat, built in 1937 after the original SS Klondike sank, ferried goods and passengers between Whitehorse and Dawson City, almost 800 km (500 miles) farther north, until 1955. Cargo and passengers arrived in Whitehorse by train, but beyond that point, there were no more roads or railways to go north. Other than walking or using dog sleds, the riverboat was the only option: a perilous journey along the Yukon River and its rapids.

We wrap up our Whitehorse visit with a stop at the canyon.

Today, we’re not taking a boat to Dawson City, but the Klondike Highway. The GPS indicates a 6-hour drive. But that doesn’t account for the fires… After 2 hours on the road, we’re stuck in Pelly Crossing, a seriously remote little town. As expected, the road is closed, and no one knows when it’ll reopen. Maybe tonight… or maybe tomorrow. After some hesitation, we decide to wait. There’s no way we are heading back to Whitehorse and making a huge detour through… Alaska!

Luckily, we’re not alone! Our German friends we met on the road are here to keep us company. They are just returning from Alaska and the Dempster Highway and have loads of advice to share! Not just advice, actually, they’re wrapping up their trip out west and gift us some of their gear they no longer need.

We also meet Alex, a truck driver. The kind who flies down narrow 90-kph roads at 110 and passes like mad. Alex loves our Jeep and invites us to stay at his island near Toronto! Maybe one day 😉 He’s traveling with his son, and the two of them drive nonstop. While one sleeps, the other drives. They’ve been doing this all summer. It’s Friday and they’re heading to the Dempster Highway, the road to the Arctic Ocean (from Edmonton, 3,200 km – 2,000 miles!) for… the third time!! 😲

We wait for 3 hours. Then, a car stops and tells us that the road will open in 5 minutes. Time to go! No way we are missing the convoy, as it’s probably the last one of the day. Alex, despite being chatty, disappears in less than ten seconds. We also pack up quickly, and off we go! A lead car in front, a tail car behind. We are a convoy of about thirty vehicles. The first few kilometers go smoothly. Then, we approach the fire: lots of smoke, reduced visibility, burned trees on the sides, and even some still-smoldering spots. It’s apocalyptic. Traveling in a convoy is reassuring.

After 60 km, we exit the burn zone, and the convoy breaks up. Still a lot of smoke, though. Impossible to spend the night in the area. It’s 10 p.m., but we decide to push on to Dawson City to sleep safely. The road is long and full of construction zones where we drive over dirt. Smoke plus dust, we can’t see much. We enjoy a well-balanced meal in the car (chips, peanuts, and cookies).

We arrive on the outskirts of Dawson City at 6 pm half past midnight, we lose track of time with the endless daylight! 😀 A beer with our German friends, and then off to bed! Friends, thank you again for these few hours and evening spent together. Thank you so much for everything you generously gave us: the Milepost has found its place in our cockpit, and it served us well on the Dempster Highway. The fish was absolutely delicious! And we hope to find some gold nuggets thanks to your gold pans! Thank you also for the America the Beautiful Pass! We will make good use of it 😊

Saturday, July 9

Time to explore Dawson City, birthplace of the Klondike Gold Rush!

In 1896, gold was discovered in the Klondike River. Immediately, gold seekers from around the world arrived, displaced the First Nations who had lived here forever, and built up the town of Dawson City. A few years later, everyone left, some rich, some empty handed, leaving behind scarred landscapes and an almost deserted town. Walking around the town, we can easily imagine the lives of these men and women in such a hostile place and the endless, glacial winters they endured. When Dawson City lost its title as the capital of the Yukon to Whitehorse in 1953, the government built a road between the two cities to appease the locals. That’s how now we’re able to reach it by road Today, the town has 1,800 residents and survives thanks to tourism.

The Gold Rush Buildings

We wander the village streets. All the buildings are beautiful. From the best-restored to the most weathered, they all have a certain charm that fascinates us.

We then join a Parks Canada guided tour. Our guide, dressed in period costume, takes us to the most iconic places of the Gold Rush and passionately shares the story of the town and the gold seekers’ lives in this remote village, which at the time was completely cut off from the world. It’s fascinating.

The Bank

People came to the Dawson City bank to weigh their gold and exchange it for real money.

The Saloon

A saloon with a very cozy atmosphere. The mirrors at the base of the counter allowed gentlemen to try to glimpse the ladies’ ankles.

The Post Office

Bear Creek

The abandoned village of Bear Creek has about sixty buildings, left behind overnight when gold mining became unprofitable. In the various buildings, we find hundreds of archive files. Offices still filled with documents and various items, calendars from 1966, old work schedules with former workers’ names and notes, and old maps marking gold streams in the region. This village operated from the early 1900s to 1966, after the Gold Rush. It was run by private companies that employed young workers doing 12-hour shifts in the mines.

We learn how gold bars were made: the soil was manually sifted, the extracted gold was dried, then melted in a massive oil furnace. The molten gold was poured into ingot molds and stored in giant safes before being sent to the city and sold to the bank.

The Dredge

Along the road, we then discover a huge dredge, sitting in a dry riverbed. At its peak production, it processed up to 23 kg (50 lbs) of gold in 3 to 4 days! Giant iron excavation buckets scraped the riverbed to extract tons of earth and gravel, which were then sifted. The leftovers went to Bear Creek for gold extraction. In nearly 50 years of operation, the dredge extracted 8,500 kg (19,000 lbs) of gold and 49 million cubic meters of gravel. Quite the impact on the environment🙃.

It’s still a question today. On the mountains and near the rivers and streams, we still see massive machines turning over huge amounts of earth. Production isn’t what it was 60 years ago, but the way they tear into the mountains and flip the land is heartbreaking. Dawson City is particularly beautiful, but the surroundings? That’s another story. Huge mounds of dug-up earth and gravel are everywhere. Everything is dug up, turned over, searched, and abandoned: old rusty machines, abandoned trailers, ruins, and old tools. Everything is a reminder of the town’s former life.

Eldorado Creek

We try our luck at Eldorado Creek (a promising name), where there’s a small public area to pan for gold. Indeed, you can’t just pan in any old stream! Every parcel of land belongs to a prospector, and woe to anyone who tries to find gold on someone else’s claim! In this public site, a few rules apply: technically, you can only pan three times per season, and you can only use basic tools: a shovel, sieve, and pan. Honestly, we’re not likely to find much: we clearly lack experience and technique 😅 So, we won’t get rich today!

After spending a few days visiting Dawson City, it’s time to prepare for a great adventure! An adventure we have been eagerly awaiting for several months! Indeed, we are setting off with our 4×4 expedition vehicle on the legendary Dempster Highway, an extreme road leading to the Arctic Ocean!

Are we ready? Check! Is the Jeep ready? Check! We fill up with water, gas, and our two reserve tanks on the roof. We stock up on food and remove the rear fenders, deflate the tires, and remove the ventilation grilles. A quick check of the Jeep to ensure everything is okay? Check! We are ready, Jeepy is ready. Let’s go!

Off we go on a multi-day expedition on the Dempster Highway towards the Arctic Ocean!

L’article Canada, Yukon – Wildfires and Gold Rush from Whitehorse to Dawson City est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.