Among the most legendary roads in the world is the Alaska Highway! Built in just eight months in 1942 to connect Alaska to the rest of the US, it winds through over 2,500 km (1500 miles) of untouched wilderness, from Dawson Creek in British Columbia to Fairbanks, Alaska, passing through the wild and remote Yukon Territory. Our plan is to drive it in its entirety! So, here we go on a memorable road trip along the Alaska Highway in our expedition Jeep! But for now, several days on the road and many adventures lie ahead before we reach Whitehorse, the first stop and capital of the Yukon.

Wednesday, June 29, 2022

A road trip on the Alaska Highway begins in Dawson Creek. It’s nearly 500 km (300 miles) from Jasper National Park. Heavy rain and industrial developments line our route, a stark contrast to the pristine wilderness we grew used to in Alberta’s national parks: oil, shale gas, coal mining, overexploitation of wood. We’re now seeing a much less glorious side of Alberta.

We find a free campsite deep in the woods, choose a sunny spot, set up the tent, light a fire, and take a lukewarm shower. We enjoy delicious burritos by the campfire. Then we roast marshmallows. A perfect evening, just the way we like it!

Thursday, June 30

We have left the mountains and are back in the plains of Alberta. The big nearby city is aptly named: Grande Prairie. We spend most of the day there: ordering and applying stickers on the Jeep, giving it a thorough wash, and stocking up on groceries. We can feel that we’ve left the mountains; it’s now stiflingly hot. In the early afternoon, we hit the road again, and, a few hours later we finally reach Dawson Creek! This is where the legendary Alaska Highway begins. It’s a big moment for us to pose with the Jeep in front of the iconic Mile 0 sign. Our road trip on the Alaska Highway can finally begin! We’re off on a 2,500 km journey to the end of the world!

After a long afternoon and evening of driving and some difficulty finding a spot for the night, we end up in the town of Fort St. John, where we spend a restless night in a park, surrounded by some partygoers.

Friday, July 1

It’s Canada Day! For us, it’s a day on the road. And what a road! Straight, empty, and lined with stunning scenery. Here, no more tourist buses or rental RVs. We’ve left the classic tourist trail behind. Mountain landscapes replace the prairies. We’re entering the northern part of the Rockies. The road becomes wilder, and the wildlife encounters multiply: an owl perched on a power line, three black bears by the roadside, a moose crossing in front of us (our first moose – no photo, unfortunately!), and even a caribou! Each sighting is a thrilling and magical moment that brightens our journey.

Amidst all these animals, we then make a stop in Fort Nelson, a small town on the Alaska Highway. We fill up on gas and water, grab some Wi-Fi, then head out again to meet some friends further down the road.

With all these stops, we arrive at our camp spot around 8 p.m. But, at these latitudes, it never really gets dark, and we can set up and cook in daylight. We reunite with our Swiss friends, whom we met in Banff, and spend the evening by the campfire, waiting for night to fall. It eventually gets the better of us: we go to bed at midnight under a still-bright sky.

Saturday, July 2

Dream spot. In a riverbed. Particularly pleasant warmth. Bright sunshine. What if we took a break and spent the day here? For the first time on our trip, we decide to do nothing, simply. No driving, no hiking, nothing. Just relax. The day is spent sunbathing, dipping our feet in the icy water, and relaxing, ending with an evening by the campfire with friends. Simply perfect.

Sunday, July 3

After this restful break, we’re eager to hit the road again! We pack up early because we have a goal today: to see wild animals! Early morning is the best time for that. Quickly, our drive through the northern boreal forest turns into a full-on wildlife safari: three moose, several porcupines, bighorn sheep, black bears, and even bison! The kilometers fly by without us even noticing, with one amazing sight after another.

But our road trip on the Alaska Highway is suddenly interrupted. After two hours of driving, a roadblock stops us. We learn that the road is closed due to heavy rains that washed away the roadway (media photo)! What a nightmare! And it’s not like there’s another route… Construction crews are working around the clock to build a detour, but the road isn’t expected to reopen until tomorrow. We’re now stuck in the middle of nowhere, near a campground, surrounded by RVs and trucks that have been here for four days. Luckily, we’re near Liard Hot Springs – so we take full advantage and spend the whole afternoon there!

On the wooden footbridge leading to the hot springs, a big surprise: two moose grazing, just a few meters away! We have plenty of time to observe them. A real treat! We’ve been hoping to see moose since we started this trip, and we’ve already seen seven in just three days on the Alaska Highway!

But our evening near Liard Hot Springs turns into a nightmare. Mosquitoes, tons of mosquitoes. And of course, nowhere to escape: we have to cook and eat outside, entirely at their mercy. By 5 p.m, we’re eating, standing, quickly, constantly moving. By 5:30, we retreat into the tent for the rest of the evening – or at least we try, as some of the relentless ones manage to sneak in. The night is going to be long.

Monday, July 4

What’s worse than being stuck in the middle of nowhere because of a landslide? Being stuck in a mosquito-infested spot! The night was terrible. When we wake up, no relief – the tent mesh is literally covered in mosquitoes. Gross! They’re all there, watching us through the net, ready to pounce the second we step outside 😱 We feel like we’re in a remake of The Walking Dead. So, we pack up the tent in record time and get out of this cursed place as fast as possible.

The Liard Hot Springs campground and its overflow area are packed with people. More and more trucks and travelers are stuck due to the landslide. We hear the road might reopen in the evening. But no way are we spending the whole day here, getting eaten alive. So, we backtrack about 50 km to Muncho Lake and set up by the lake, where we find some relief.

This little detour costs us dearly: we have to refuel at the Muncho Lake campground, where we find the most expensive gas so far (hold onto your hat) at 2.79 CAD per liter! Ouch. At 5 p.m, we try our luck, fingers crossed and sweating. Will we have to endure another night of horror? No! The road is finally open. What a relief! 😌 A detour has been built through the woods and across rivers in just four days to bypass the damaged section. We can finally resume our Alaska Highway road trip!

Eager to put as much distance as possible between us and the mosquitoes, we drive nonstop for over three hours to Watson Lake, the last major town before Whitehorse. Dusk is the best time for wildlife sightings – we see 11 bears along the road, both black and brown! Plus, bison! We also enter the Yukon and cross the 60th parallel!

We arrive in town around 10 p.m under a still-blue sky! No way are we sleeping in the middle of a field, at the mercy of mosquitoes, black flies, and other pests. We park at the visitor center, surrounded by other travelers.

Tuesday, July 5

Our morning in Watson Lake is spent chatting with other travelers, visiting the visitor center and its museum (and bathrooms 😀), and wandering through the town’s famous Sign Post Forest. In 1942, during the construction of the Alaska Highway, an American soldier suffering from homesickness put up a wooden sign showing the way to his hometown in Illinois. Since then, travelers from all over the world have done the same! Today, over 90,000 signs are recorded – it’s a true maze.

At the visitor center, we get some bad news about our route: wildfires are raging throughout the Yukon, and some roads are closed – including the one leading to Dawson City in the North! The problem? in the Yukon there are few roads, so if things don’t improve, we’ll have to take a major detour through the US. As we drive toward Whitehorse, five hours away, we can actually see parts of the forest burning.

If yesterday we saw 11 bears on the road between 5 p.m and 9 p.m, today, in the middle of the afternoon, we see… one! Not the most productive wildlife day 😅

Just before reaching Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon, we find a beautiful lakeside spot for a peaceful evening and a good night’s rest! Tomorrow, we’ll finally arrive in Whitehorse. But the Alaska Highway, which has amazed us so much, does not end there. We’ll be leaving it for a few days to explore the Yukon, this wild province of the Canadian Far North. We can’t wait to discover the Yukon’s wild landscapes and its rich Gold Rush history, between Whitehorse and Dawson City.

L’article Canada, BC, Yukon – Dawson Creek to Whitehorse: Wild Encounters on the Alaska Highway est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

What better way to end our journey through the Canadian Rockies than with the beautiful and famous Jasper National Park? After a month of discovering breathtaking landscapes and encountering rich and wild wildlife in the various national parks of the Canadian Rockies—first in Waterton Lakes National Park, then in Kootenay National Park, Banff National Park, and finally Yoho National Park—we take one last look before heading north towards new adventures.

Monday, June 27, 2022

The stunning Icefields Parkway led us through breathtaking landscapes all the way to Jasper National Park. While it’s less popular than its neighbor Banff National Park, Jasper is still a must-see in Western Canada. We wake up under a radiant sun that pleasantly warms the tent. What a joy to get up without freezing our butts off! We could quickly get used to it 😀

We leave the campground around 9 a.m., after a shower and a quick stop at the hairdresser (his name is Rémi 😉). Heading to Maligne Lake, a must-see in Jasper National Park! The road leading there is long and scenic. Along the way, we’re lucky to have some beautiful encounters: a few elk casually crossing the road without a care in the world, and bald eagles: two big chicks and their mom perched high up in a nest. We dreamed of seeing this majestic bird, the symbol of the United States, so we’re thrilled!

🥾 Bald Hills Trail – 7.8 km (4.3 miles), 350 m elevation gain

This trail is supposed to take us up a hill overlooking the lake. However, snow and mud quickly get the better of us. After admiring the view from the first lookout, we decide to turn back and have a picnic by the lake instead. Some days, you just don’t feel like battling the elements! Better to take it easy and rest.

We then go for a walk at Maligne Canyon, which offers a incredible spectacle. The gorge, once an underground river, reaches depths of up to 58 meters! From the footbridges, we watch the river roaring loudly far below. Absolutely magnificent!

On the way back, the park continues to surprise us. We spot a huge elk! Without hesitation, we turn around and stop a few meters away, careful not to disturb it. It’s a large male with magnificent antlers. A beautiful specimen that we enjoy observing and photographing for a few minutes before leaving it to go about its business. Yet another magical encounter, one of those moments only Canada seems to know the secret to.

After a quick stop in Jasper for some shopping, we head back to request a spot at the same campground as the night before. Any chance we could have the same site as yesterday? 😄 We have a lovely evening, working, cooking, doing the dishes, taking a hot shower, and enjoying our evening coffee/herbal tea with a piece of chocolate. In short, our little routine. All while enjoying the company of the elk, who are not shy and come to graze between the campsites and in front of the restrooms.

Tuesday, June 28

Three days of good weather seems to be the most we can hope for in the Rockies 🤪 Today, by noon, it’s over! The rain is expected to return. So we get up at 6 a.m. to make the most of these few, relatively nice hours.

Cautiously and on the lookout for any wildlife, we hit the road toward Pyramid Lake. As always, the scenery is splendid, with mountains reflecting in the calm water. We have breakfast by the lake, on a beach dotted with numerous signs warning: “Bewarre, grizzlies in the area.” We’re not exactly at ease as we cook our very aromatic sausages, and the bear spray is prominently placed on the table. Okay, we’ll admit it: we would really love to spot a grizzly 😁

After a quick stop at the campsite for a bit of freshening up and to do the dishes (our spot is ours until 11 a.m, so we might as well make the most of it), we head to Edith Cavell. The winding road up the mountain is magnificent and very steep. The engine is heating up! Just as we park, it starts to rain! Bad luck. Anyway, the trail, reputed to be beautiful, is closed because there is still too much snow… Too bad, we settle for the viewpoint.

Under a light rain, we decide to leave Jasper National Park after only two days. The park’s “no camping” policy is quite discouraging for travelers like us. Nights at official campgrounds get expensive fast! Like other travelers we met on the road, we prefer to shorten our visit rather than linger and strain our budget. Besides, it’s raining, so we might as well keep moving! Next stop? It’s time for us to officially say goodbye to the Canadian Rockies and head north! 😎

Chills guaranteed in front of this sign, pointing for the very first time toward our wildest dream: Alaska! But despite what the sign might suggest, Alaska is still a long way off! To get there, we will travel one of the most iconic roads in the world: the legendary Alaska Highway, which promises plenty of surprises… and encounters!

L’article Canada, Alberta – Final chapter in the Canadian Rockies at Jasper National Park est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Today is a big day: after more than two weeks exploring Banff National Park and Yoho National Park, it’s time for us to leave this part of the Canadian Rockies. Banff National Park stretches many more kilometers north, all the way to Jasper National Park. Ahead of us lies 250 km of road, (150 miles) and not just any road: the Icefields Parkway, famed as one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Ready to be amazed? 😜 Let us introduce you to the must-see attractions along the Icefields Parkway!

Saturday, June 25, 2022

It’s seven o’clock, and we’re already on the road under the bluest sky we’ve seen so far. The downside of this gorgeous weather? It’s 1°C (34°F)!

Herbert Lake

We make our first stop at Herbert Lake, just 10 minutes into the drive. The reflection of the trees and mountains on the lake is simply… perfect. But the magic only happens early in the morning!

Bow Lake

We then stop at Bow Lake, where we have breakfast. The lake is surrounded by impressive mountains and glaciers: Bow Glacier and Crowfoot Glacier.

Peyto Lake

Next stop: the incredible Peyto Lake. It’s without a doubt one of the most famous lakes in the Canadian Rockies and a must-see stop along the Icefields Parkway. Its turquoise blue water shining in the sun is absolutely stunning. Anecdote: while walking toward Bow Summit, we came across a skier. Yep, an alpine skier. When we told him there was no more snow below, just mud, he looked pretty disappointed. “Ah, summer,” he sighed! 😅

Mistaya Canyon

Our last stop of the day is at Mistaya Canyon, very popular but also incredibly impressive.

Abraham Lake

The Icefields Parkway runs through Banff and Jasper National Parks. Therefore, camping along it is strictly prohibited! So, where to sleep along the Icefields Parkway? Our plan for the night is to head to Abraham Lake. It’s located just a few kilometers from Banff National Park and is known for its wild camping spots. We arrive around 3 p.m. and find many weekenders already settled in all the best spots in the area. We drive around a bit, do some scouting, a little trail, a few U-turns before finding THE spot. A bit elevated, facing the lake, with a firepit, in full sunlight, far from the weekend crowds. The perfect spot for a perfect evening.

When there’s a campfire, it means potatoes roasted in the embers accompanied by a pepper and chorizo omelet. And for dessert: marshmallows! This time, we were well prepared 😉 In these moments, life on the road feels like a fairy tale, and we feel sooooo good. We’re definitely better off here than on our couch in front of the TV! 😁

Sunday, June 27

We wake up early under a cloudless sky and beautiful sunshine. Two consecutive days of good weather? Wow! We had planned to hit the road early, but with such great weather and such a beautiful landscape, we linger a bit. It’s not until 9 a.m. that we finally set off. The second part of the Icefields Parkway awaits us!

Saskatchewan Glacier

After all that driving, it’s time to stretch our legs a bit!

🥾 Parker Ridge Trail – 5.4 km (3 miles), 250 m elevation gain

What a hike! Setting out for this short 5 km trek, we didn’t expect to come across such a view. After a fairly steep climb through several centimeters of soft snow, we reach the top of the mountain. In front of us, far in the distance, lies the Saskatchewan Glacier. Impressive. The landscape is simply breathtaking.

We have a picnic at the border between the two national parks. We leave Banff and enter Jasper.

Consternation at Athabasca Glacier

A different atmosphere at the Athabasca Glacier, a few kilometers further. Here, it’s crowded, and the reason is simple: no need to walk to admire this glacier. Quite the opposite, it’s possible to board a bus that takes you… onto the glacier! Yes, onto the glacier. Buses actually drive on the glacier. We are surprised, shocked, dismayed. The worst part of the story? Commemorative signs along the path leading to the foot of the glacier show its retreat year after year. It’s said to retreat by 5 meters annually, but when you see the distance between the 1992 sign and today, we’re far from the 150 meters…

The dichotomy of Jasper National Park, and more generally of Parks Canada, whose values center around the protection of wildlife and the environment, is displayed prominently on the explanatory signs along the path: to fight climate change and the retreat of the glacier, we are advised to unplug electrical devices at night and recycle our waste! We are dismayed. Before blaming people for their own responsibility in climate issues, wouldn’t it be more logical to start by stopping the operation of highly polluting buses driving on the glacier tongue itself? We can’t help but think that the park’s economic interests, which it finds in mass tourism, take precedence over the protection of the environment and the glacier. It’s really a shame…

Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint

We continue our journey towards the town of Jasper, making multiple photo stops and admiring the scenery. The Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint lives up to its name: we see glaciers and plenty of mountain goats!

Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls

We then stop at two waterfalls along the Icefields Parkway: Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls.

The Icefields Parkway ends in the small town of Jasper, where we arrive in the late afternoon. Jasper, in a way, is similar to Banff: it’s a small, very touristy town filled with souvenir shops and restaurants. We are starving and give in: for the first time on our trip, we eat at a restaurant, an all-you-can-eat Indian buffet, which we make sure to get our money’s worth (maybe even a little too much 🤢). A real treat that is a pleasant change from pasta and rice! We then spend the night at the local campsite because in Jasper, they don’t mess around: wild camping is strictly forbidden, and the closest free spot is 50 kilometers outside the park!

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the iconic spots of Jasper National Park, one of the most famous parks in Canada.

L’article Canada, Alberta – The Icefields Parkway, the most beautiful road in the world? est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Coming face-to-face with a big grizzly during our hike at Little Beehive? Done, and it’s terrifying! This happened at the magnificent Lake Louise in Banff National Park!

Tuesday, June 21, 2022

After two days in the magnificent Yoho National Park, we’re back in Canmore where we finally pick up our new module for our Goal Zero portable battery! We’re hoping this will finally solve our charging issues for good. As soon as we get it, we swap it out and drive about ten minutes toward Banff National Park — and our battery charges to 100%! After three weeks of technical trouble and back-and-forth with Goal Zero’s customer service, we’re independent again! Pure joy! 😎

For the sixth time, we’re spending the night at the Lake Louise campground overflow, surrounded by huge RVs, vans, and expedition trucks. We eat a good meal in the rain (again…), then head to bed early. Tomorrow, the alarm is set for an early wake-up, as we’re heading back to Moraine Lake.

Wednesday, June 22

6 a.m., the alarm rings. We stick our heads out of the car: overcast. Well, let’s not get discouraged. The weather is supposed to improve by late morning. It better, because we want our photo: the one of Moraine Lake’s magnificent blue color in the sun. We admired the sunrise at Moraine Lake a few days ago, but the weather quickly turned cloudy, forcing us to head down into the valley to warm up. Today, we’re giving ourselves a second chance.

At 7 a.m., we park in the Moraine Lake parking lot. The weather is still overcast but clear. We have breakfast in the parking lot, then set off on the hike to Sentinel Pass, not forgetting all our rain gear. The weather can be very changeable around here.

🥾 Eiffel Lake and Sentinel Pass Trail – 10 km (6.2 miles), 600 m elevation gain

Immediately, we gain elevation, which allows us to enjoy a beautiful view of Moraine Lake below.

We are completely alone. Here, no more tourists. No one. Our bear bell echoes through the woods. Rémi has the bear spray in his pocket, ready to use. And the GPS hangs from the backpack, constantly tracking our position, with or without network coverage. You can never be too careful.

3 km and 500 m of elevation gain later, we reach the fork. To the left, Eiffel Lake. To the right, Sentinel Pass. We go left. There’s snow, lots of snow. It’s raining, snowing, windy, and sunny. We put on layers, take them off. We wear our rain gear, then take it off. After 3 km, we come face to face with an avalanche chute. The weather has turned stormy. Given the avalanches we’ve been hearing regularly along the way, we wisely decide to turn back. Too bad for Eiffel Lake.

Back at the fork, we head right toward Larch Valley and the Sentinel Pass trail. On this side, there’s even more snow. After 2 km, we reach Larch Valley, which offers a breathtaking landscape: sharp rocky peaks, a stunning contrast of black and white, and daunting avalanche chutes. At the far end of the valley lies the trail to Sentinel Pass. We can make out the top of the trail, zigzagging upwards, but not the bottom. There’s a lot of snow and no visible path leading to it. Oh well, so we settle for admiring the valley from below.

After a quick descent to Moraine Lake under bright sunshine, we arrive at the lake’s edge in the rain! What bad luck! We eat in the car, waiting for the shower to pass. Then, we head up to the viewpoint over the lake. After more than an hour of waiting in the rain and wind, we have to face the facts: we won’t get a sunny view of the lake, just a brief clearing. Too bad, that’s the way it goes in the mountains.

We then head straight down to the small town of Lake Louise, where we sneak into the local campground for a hot shower. After that, we return to spend a seventh night at the overflow area of the Lake Louise campground.

Thursday, June 23

This morning, and for the second time in a week, we return to the famous Lake Louise. Other hiking trails in the area are calling us, and we can’t leave for good without exploring them. On the way to the lake, we spot a grizzly! That’s our fifth grizzly (all seen at Lake Louise) and our fifteenth bear since we arrived in the Rockies three weeks ago. Quite an impressive tally.

🥾 Little Beehive Trail – 8 km (5 miles), 600 m elevation gain

Last week, we hiked Big Beehive. Today, we’re setting off for the Little Beehive hike, whose panorama is said to be just as impressive as Big Beehive’s. The trail is popular, and we begin the ascent surrounded by other hikers. It’s particularly cold, but the weather is clear. However, we plan to return before noon, as rain is expected.

Quickly, we are faced with a beautiful panorama of Lake Louise and, higher up, Mirror Lake. The color contrast between the two lakes is striking: the milky blue of Lake Louise is due to the rock dust suspended in the water. We also have a great view of Big Beehive, much higher up.

We’re moving at a good pace through subalpine vegetation. A curve in the trail. And we come face-to-face with an enormous grizzly. Oh shit. Only 15 meters separate us. It’s walking straight towards us. Adrenaline rush. Survival instinct kicks in. Without turning our backs, we start a nervous retreat. It’s moving faster than we’re retreating. Behind it, or rather her, a cub trots along. Yet, no signs of aggression. She walks towards us, not even glancing our way, busy scanning the trail for food. After an unbearable minute, she veers off the trail and disappears, followed by her baby.

We are breathless, our hearts racing, legs trembling. It takes us several minutes to recover from this encounter. Fortunately, we had our bear bell: she had probably heard and smelled us long before we saw her, and yet she continued walking towards us. We didn’t even feel the need to take out the bear spray, as she was very calm, even indifferent to our presence.

We snap a few photos of her on our way back from the viewpoint. Hard to believe she was standing just 15 meters in front of us a few minutes earlier! We still have chills (from excitement and fear). We can’t stop talking about this encounter, analyzing her behavior, ours, and remembering THE moment when we saw her appear on the trail. Impressive. Unforgettable.

The viewpoint from Little Beehive is stunning. We have a clear, bird’s-eye view of Lake Louise and the Bow Valley. Absolutely breathtaking.

From the surrounding mountains, a very dark cloud descends into the valley, and we can feel it’s time to head back down. A soaking is definitely on the way!

We had predicted the bad weather ahead. But what we hadn’t anticipated? Snow! A real snowstorm hits us and freezes us instantly. Banff National Park looks beautiful in the middle of December! 🤪

After this beautiful hike to Little Beehive, it’s finally time for us to leave Banff National Park. Or at least, this part of the park. After more than two weeks spent in the area, it’s time to explore other wonders further north. And what wonders! The Canadian Rockies continue to amaze us with the most beautiful road in the world: the Icefields Parkway.

L’article Canada, Alberta – Terrifying face-to-face encounter with a grizzly at Little Beehive, Lake Louise est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Do you also think rain gives landscapes a mysterious vibe and a certain charm? So do we, especially in the mountains and in the woods! Nevertheless, after 10 days of almost non-stop rain, we’re seriously hoping for just one sunny day! In the meantime, we’re making the most of it by exploring Banff National Park off the beaten path, visiting some little-known spots that are definitely worth the detour… even in gloomy weather!

Friday, June 17, 2022

We’ve been in Banff for 10 days now and are struggling to admire the beauty of the landscapes under a blue sky and sunshine. We took advantage of the last clear spells to hike at Lake Louise and watch the sunrise at Moraine Lake. But winter is lingering, and spring is struggling to settle in. Many hiking trails are still closed or inaccessible due to the risk of avalanches.

You’re wondering why we’re still at Banff National Park when the weather is gloomy and cold? We’re still having issues with our Goal Zero portable battery, which normally charges via the Jeep’s alternator… But for the past two weeks, since we were at the beautiful Waterton Lakes National Park, it hasn’t been charging. Yesterday, we sent the faulty module back to Goal Zero and managed to convince them to send the new module without waiting to receive the old one. So, they should be sending it to us soon (at least we hope so).

So, we’re forced to stay near the only ‘big’ town around: Canmore. Fortunately, being stuck in Banff isn’t so bad! There’s no shortage of things to do. After discovering the most iconic spots in Banff National Park, we’ve decided to explore Banff off the beaten path.

After two early wake-ups in a row, this Friday is all about relaxation. We wake up slowly near Canmore. We stop by Tim’s to enjoy the Wi-Fi and have a nice breakfast (it’s raining, so we have an excuse not to cook!). Then, we’re back on the road to Banff National Park. It’s a route we’re starting to get quite familiar with, given all the back and forths we’ve been doing for the past 10 days. The highway that runs through the park is fully fenced, even electrified! This helps keep animals off the road. Metal grids at the entrance and exit of each access ramp block their path, and natural bridges allow them to move between both sides of the valley, which is split by the highway.

Lac Johnson

A 3-kilometer walk takes us around Johnston Lake. The surrounding mountains are reflected in its clear waters. Beautiful!

Two Jake Lake

We have lunch by Two Jake Lake, where, despite the cold and gloomy weather, a few brave souls try their hand at paddleboarding. Always a good distraction xD

We spend the afternoon driving through the beautiful roads of the park. Between ever more stunning landscapes and encounters with wildlife (it’s elk day, we spot four by the roadside!), we can’t get enough of this exceptional park.

We take a hot shower at the nearby campground. Then, we spend our fifth night at the overflow of the Lake Louise campground. The place isn’t very glamorous, but it’s much cheaper than a regular campsite (especially when we forget to pay 🙃). We spend another rainy evening with our new Swiss friends, whom we met a few days earlier on the road, and their awesome 4×4 van! They also plan to drive down to Ushuaia!

Saturday, June 18

Today, a nice surprise awaits us when we wake up: the sun!! It’s been six days since we last saw it. I don’t think anyone has ever shown such enthusiasm and happiness for a ray of sunshine, no matter how shy it might be 😁 We try to head to Moraine Lake because we’d love to see its beautiful color under the bright sun. However, it’s already 10 a.m., and the rangers have closed the road because the parking lot is full. Fail.

Morant’s Curve

Another curiosity of Banff National Park off the beaten path is Morant’s Curve, the famous bend in the railway that crosses the park. We spend 30 minutes waiting for the train, then 10 minutes watching it pass! Its dozens and dozens of carriages roll by before our eyes (I count 169!!), pulled and pushed by three locomotives. Now that’s a train! What a great attraction!

🥾 Sentier Castle Lookout – 7 kms, 800 m D+

It’s time to take advantage of this clear sky to climb the Castle Mountains, which have been catching our eye since we arrived in the park. These past few days, we’ve mostly seen them hidden in the clouds. Today, it’s time to enjoy them!

After a steep but steady climb, we reach the viewpoint overlooking the Bow Valley.

The late afternoon is spent enjoying a snack in the sun by the river, followed by a stop at the service center to use their Wi-Fi. We then decide to temporarily leave Banff National Park to head to the neighboring park: Yoho National Park, located in British Columbia!

L’article Canada, Alberta – Banff National Park Off the Beaten Path est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Have you ever had the chance to spot a mama grizzly on a trail, feeding her three cubs? We did! 😎 It happened during a hike at Lake Louise, in Banff National Park. Let us tell you all about this magical moment and the breathtaking sunrise at Moraine Lake!

Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Our ascent of Mount Sulphur in Banff was followed by two days of flood alerts and violent, uninterrupted rain. So, we had no choice but to take shelter at Tim’s while we waited it out. Today, the weather seems to be improving. At least, it’s not supposed to rain… This is the window we’ve been waiting for over the past 10 days to visit Banff’s most iconic lake: Lake Louise! We didn’t want to make any compromises for this lake: we spent the first few days waiting for it to thaw completely, and the following ones hoping for sunny weather. Today is the day: no way we’re missing this chance! We park in the lake’s parking lot at 6:15 AM after a very early wake-up. Let’s go for a long hike at Lake Louise!

🥾 Lake Louise Trail, Plain of Six Glaciers, Big Beehive Lookout – 19 km (12 miles), 800 m elevation gain

Why is Lake Louise so famous in Western Canada? Because of its milky-blue water that turns turquoise in the sun! Well, at 6 a.m., it’s not that obvious! 😅

We follow the lake’s edge for about a kilometer before starting a climb toward the Plain of Six Glaciers. We’re surrounded by towering cliffs, where we spot mountain goats with thick, fluffy coats!

Very quickly, we come across a nervous couple: they had to turn back not far from here because a mother bear and her cubs were on the trail. We, on the other hand, are eager to see these bears 😁 We continue cautiously, alert at every turn. After about a kilometer, we meet a French couple who are stopped on the trail. We approach slowly: the mother bear, along with her three cubs, seems to be just around the bend, out of sight.

Together, we move cautiously. A bush rustles at the edge of the trail, and a brown head appears. A tiny cub emerges from the underbrush and trots across the trail in front of us. Too cute! 😍 It’s much smaller than the cubs we had encountered in Waterton Lakes National Park. It looks to be about a month old. We spot a second one, and then a third.

Then, the mother emerges from the bushes. We first see her large head, then her body. We step back a few paces, impressed: she is huge, over 200 kg (450 lbs) in our estimation! Contrary to what we had been told, this is not a brown bear, but a grizzly, easily identifiable by the hump on its back and its stocky build. Our first grizzly. Big emotions. She is impressive. When she turns her big round head towards us, we step back further. Better not have such a beast charging at us!

But she seems far more interested in the seeds and buds by the trail than in the four humans. Despite having her three cubs with her, she shows no signs of nervousness or aggression. On the contrary, she is very calm and completely indifferent to our presence. The little ones, however, seem more intrigued. When they smell or hear us, they stand up on their hind legs and look in our direction. We even hear some little grunts. We are in awe. What a privilege!

After a while, the mother lies down on her side. It takes us several seconds to realize that the cubs are nursing. The moment speaks for itself; in any case, we are speechless!

We stay and watch them for 45 minutes. Then, they finally leave the trail and move away towards the snowy valley. We see them walking in the snow, the mother in front and the three cubs following behind in a single file. A magical moment we will always remember!

We continue our hike at Lake Louise. The Plain of Six Glaciers trail, still under avalanche risk, is very steep, with snowy sections along the cliff where it’s best not to slip!

It ends at the far end of the Six Glaciers Plain, facing an immense cirque, cliffs from which ice blocks regularly fall, jagged mountain peaks, and glaciers towering above us. In the distance, Lake Louise shimmers a beautiful blue.

We then climb to the Big Beehive viewpoint, which is at the top of one of the mountains surrounding Lake Louise. We weren’t prepared for such an effort! The 300 meters of elevation gain are through a particularly snowy forest. Tree trunks regularly block the path. We reach the top of the cliff exhausted, but the landscape was worth it (as it often is)!

We had planned to descend via the other side, to go around Lake Agnes (still frozen) and make a big loop. However, we meet a couple who tell us that the ascent is dangerous on this side due to very steep slopes still covered in snow. Being cautious, we decide to descend by the same trail, which allows us to circle Lake Louise and admire its beautiful milky color.

The cherry on top of this beautiful hiking day at Lake Louise: the local campground lets us take a free – and very hot – shower in their facilities! What more could we ask for?

Thursday, June 16

As if we hadn’t woken up early enough yesterday, we decide to get up even earlier today: 4 a.m!! Our goal for the day: to admire the sunrise over the other iconic lake in Banff National Park: Moraine Lake, which even had the privilege of being featured on Canadian $20 bills. The wake-up is tough, but we arrive early enough to drive up to Moraine Lake in our own vehicle. And mission accomplished! What a spectacle, this sunrise over the most beautiful lake in the world! 🤩

We haven’t finished discovering the wonders of Banff National Park. But more rain is forecasted for the coming days… Nevertheless, Banff National Park is so beautiful that even in the rain, the spectacle remains incredible!

L’article Canada, Alberta – Grizzlies and hiking at Lake Louise and sunrise at Moraine Lake est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

We actually considered taking the gondola up Sulphur Mountain in Banff National Park. But that was before we found out it would cost $55 per person! In the end, hiking up Sulphur Mountain wasn’t so bad, and it was a great challenge to take on! 😅

Friday, June 10, 2022

This morning is cold, gray, and windy. After a long and demanding hike in Banff National Park followed by a stormy night under the tent, we are exhausted. To lift our spirits, we take a hot shower at the Mountain View campground in the town of Banff, where we spent the night. Given the price of the campground, we might as well make the most of it! The positive side of this campground: we managed to charge our Goal Zero battery to 90%! Good thing, because that was the main reason for staying in a campground. Today is a rest day. We have a comforting breakfast at Tim’s and catch up with the family ❤️ before doing some shopping.

Banff is not just a national park; it’s also a town! So, we spend the day visiting the most popular spots around. The town is very cute, nestled in the mountains, but it feels too small to accommodate the influx of tourists from all over the world that arrive every summer. Dozens of buses, hotels, guesthouses, chalets, and resorts, plus souvenir shops everywhere. All at exorbitant prices 🤪.

National Historic Site Cave and Basin

This is where Canada’s very first national park was created in the early 1880s. The park was established around the cave and its hot springs to attract tourists and promote trade. Before that, the cave had been used for hundreds of years by Indigenous people for rituals and ceremonies. This small historic site tells the story of the cave’s discovery and, more broadly, the creation of Canada’s national parks and their role in preserving the country’s wildlife and flora.

The gondolas of Mount Sulphur

We were very tempted to take the gondolas up Mount Sulphur, before finding out the price was $55 per person! 😱 A bit expensive for us. We were planning to go all the way to Ushuaia, after all!

Bow Falls

The Fairmont

Is it really necessary to mention that we didn’t spend the night here? 😅

The hoodoos

We made a brief stop to admire the local Hoodoos, also known as fairy chimneys. These tall rock formations were shaped over the years by erosion.

On the road, I spot an elk lying in the woods. Without hesitation, we turn around and carefully take the hiking trail that passes right by this giant deer – the second largest in North America after the moose. We don’t linger, as the “Caution: Female elk are dangerous” signs are just as common as the “Caution: Bear!” ones. See an elk? Check!

Saturday, June 11

We leave the mountains for the day. The reason? We’re going to the doctor. For Jeepy, not for us! Indeed, one of the transmission shaft joints is leaking. Rémi spends the morning at the garage in Calgary, and I stay at Tim’s to work. We eventually spend a good part of the afternoon there. A day of rest and work that feels good. And, since it’s a day dedicated to taking care of Jeepy, we take the opportunity to rotate the tires.

Sunday, June 12

Our plan for the day? Hiking up Sulphur Mountain. Since we don’t have $100 to spend on a gondola ride, we opt for the hiking trail instead. After all, the view will definitely be more rewarding after such an effort, right? 😉 So, off we go to the summit of Mount Sulphur!

🥾 Mount Sulphur Trail – 11 km (6.8 miles), 750 m elevation gain

The trail is much less strenuous than we expected. In reality, it has a gentle incline the entire way. All we need to do is find a pace and stick with it until the end.

Zigzag after zigzag, we finally reach the summit of Mount Sulphur, where we run into a group of four Québécois who just got off the gondola. They didn’t know there was a trail! When we tell them it took us 1.5 hours to climb, they no longer regret their pricey tickets! At the top, it’s crowded. And that’s an understatement! But the view of the valley and the town of Banff nestled in the mountains is stunning. Another great hike 😊

After hiking up Sulphur Mountain, we spend a good part of the afternoon in Banff. We take our time wandering through the charming streets of the town, surrounded by all the local tourists. Between browsing souvenir shops for a sticker to put on Jeepy, we stop by the local ice cream shop: McDonald’s! 😁

We then set off to admire another viewpoint over the city, but this time, it’s Jeepy doing the work! It bravely climbs the tight mountain turns without a hitch. What a champ! Although, we do use up a bit of the tank. It sure guzzles fuel! 😂

Discreetly, we sneak into the campground where we stayed a few days earlier. Armed with a backpack full of our toiletries, we walk through the various campsites, wearing our most innocent expressions. We quietly enter the bathrooms to take a nice hot shower. We also take the opportunity to do some dishes. After that, we return for the third time to the same spot to spend a rainy night, the first of many to come.

But bad weather is no match for us! Indeed, we’re far from having discovered all the wonders that Banff National Park has to offer. Next stop: exploring the most beautiful and iconic lakes of Canada, Lake Louise and Moraine Lake! With, as a bonus, a terrifying face-to-face encounter with grizzly bears during a hike!

L’article Canada, Alberta – Hiking beneath the gondolas in Banff est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.

Among all of Canada’s national parks, Banff National Park is undeniably the most iconic. Established in 1885 as Canada’s first national park, it was a trailblazer in every way, a pioneer in wildlife and ecosystem conservation. Banff is THE park of all parks in Canada. But above all, it is an entirely wild expanse of more than 6,600 km²! A true playground for nature lovers… and that includes us! This year, after dreaming about it for so long, we are finally among the three million visitors who come to hike in Banff National Park and experience its stunning, untamed nature. A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

Thursday, June 9, 2022

From the tumultuous Johnston Canyon and Kootenay National Park, where we have spent the past few days, we head to the neighboring park: Banff National Park. As with every park we’ve visited, the road treats us to incredible landscapes (do I even need to mention it? 😅).

🥾 C Level Cirque Trail – Announced: 7.8 km (4.3 miles), 455 m elevation gain. In reality: 9.5 km (5.6 miles), 700 m elevation gain

We set off on this short hike with enthusiasm (or at least, that’s what we think at the time!). But just 50 meters from the parking lot, we are abruptly stopped: a black bear! No, wait, I spot a second one in the bushes. Two black bears with brown fur! What luck! Encountering wild animals in their natural habitat, without fences or barriers, is always an incredible privilege, one we truly appreciate.

They are beautiful, they are big, they are not aggressive, but they are blocking the trail. This is the first time we have encountered bears on a trail (during our trip, at least, as we had a scare in La Mauricie last fall). They have heard and smelled us, but they don’t seem bothered in the slightest by our presence and show no signs of nervousness, let alone aggression. As we cautiously go around them, leaving the trail, they lift their heads and watch us pass with their small eyes while chewing. A truly magical moment.

The trail climbs, climbs, climbs through a dense and damp forest. We pass the historic foundations of an old mine, with its massive, now-fenced shafts opening gaping holes in the woods. Soon, snow appears on the trail. Then more snow. Then even more! When we reach the summit, we wade through several centimeters of soft, wet snow. The view of the immense cirque of Mount Cascade is impressive. And we encounter two Rocky Mountain marmots!

We have reached the end of the trail, but the tracks continue, disappearing into the mountain. We decide to follow them. They don’t seem to follow any official trail, climbing steeply through the woods. The ascent is exhausting. We sometimes sink up to our thighs! Finally, we reach a snowy ledge overlooking the cirque we were in earlier. We can’t go any higher unless we have some ropes for climbing! The view from the top was worth every bit of effort. We now overlook the cirque, as well as the entire valley.

After the climb, the descent! A sled would have been welcome! We endure a long, steep descent in the snow, which results in several slides, sometimes for several meters. My “waterproof to a certain point” shoes have clearly reached their limit. I pour out several liters of water from them! 😆

As we descend back into the forest, we return to spring: the snow disappears, leaves reappear on the trees, and flowers line the edge of the trail. What a strange contrast! We quickly make our way back to the parking lot, without encountering any bears. Hungry from this hike, which turned out to be much longer and tougher than expected, we enjoy our meal by Lake Minnewanka, facing yet another very pleasant view!

You’re wondering how our auxiliary battery issue is going? The answer: nowhere!! It’s been a week since we have been dealing with this problem, and neither Goal Zero, the manufacturer of our battery, nor the garage that installed it has any solution to offer, except for honoring the warranty and sending us a new replacement part! That’s nice, but we’re deep in the Rockies, out West, and sending the defective part to our preparer in Montreal, who could then forward it to a location we don’t even know yet… it’s going to be long and tedious!

In the meantime, we have no choice: we need to recharge our battery on the grid. That’s how we end up at the Mountain View campground in Banff. $42 per night, an outlet at the site, a hot shower, a campsite… by the roadside. Yes, you read that right. We’re parked next to massive RVs, on the side of the road. How classy… 🙃 Fortunately, Jeepy is small. So, we manage to get onto a patch of grass, just to avoid sleeping right on the road.

To top it all off, after several nights sleeping in the Jeep, we have the brilliantidea to set up the tent! But all night long, we are shaken by a very violent windstorm. Several times, the tent’s awnings come loose, forcing us to go outside to reattach them. Between these frequent wake-ups, the strong gusts shaking the tent, and the tarp constantly flapping, let’s just say it wasn’t a great night. As Rémi wisely puts it: in the future, we’ll need to choose our battles more wisely! 🤪 But for now, Banff National Park still has a lot to offer. More beautiful hikes await us there!

L’article Canada, Alberta – The incredible Banff est apparu en premier sur Un pneu plus loin.