For the first few days of our road trip on the Pan-American Highway, we’re making a two-day stop at Gatineau Park, just outside Canada’s capital: Ottawa. Gatineau Park offers unspoiled nature less than 15 minutes from the city! And for us, when it comes to choosing between the city and nature, it’s clear where we stand!
Wednesday, May 18, 2022
From Montreal, we’ve often thought about visiting Gatineau Park, but our travels always seemed to lead us elsewhere. This time, no way we’re missing out. Located just outside Ottawa, on the Quebec side, it’s right on our route to Toronto, and also to… the garage in Gatineau where we have an appointment 😅. Like all the parks we’ve visited in Quebec (and, in three years, we’ve visited a loooot of them!), it covers a vast area. But here’s the surprise at the entrance: it’s completely free. Finally, a park where access to nature is free for everyone. Hats off to Gatineau!
Since we took our time this morning and our garage appointment is at 1 PM, we’re opting for a quick and easy trail.
🥾 Carbide Willson Ruins Trail – 4 km (2.5 miles)
Who said that winter is the most beautiful season in Quebec? Probably someone who’s never set foot in Gatineau Park in mid-May! 😜 A vibrant, majestic, dazzling green has joined the celebration. It’s the fresh, pure green of the new buds, just blossoming on the trees. Pure bliss for the eyes. We’re loving the green!
At the end of the trail, you’ll find the ruins of an old factory. The setting, with a waterfall and the weathered building, is absolutely stunning.
Before leaving the park, we have a picnic by the lake, where we’re immediately joined by some surprise guests: hundreds of bugs! We’re forced to eat while walking, because otherwise, it’s impossible to take a bite of our sandwich without swallowing a ton of extra protein.
After a quick stop at the Gatineau garage to install a GPS tracker in the car (a requirement from our insurance), we take advantage of this sunny day to head back to Gatineau Park. As often in Quebec’s parks, we’re having the best time driving along the well-maintained roads. Between cyclists, walkers, joggers, kayaks, and canoes, we realize that Gatineau Park is to Ottawa what Mount Royal is to Montreal. Except it’s much, much larger!
🥾 Lauriault and Chute Falls Trail – 3 km (2 miles)
The trail takes us through woods, streams, and waterfalls to the Mackenzie-King Estate, once home to Canada’s prime minister. After his death, he left the estate to the Canadian people as a thank-you for their trust. We stroll through perfectly maintained gardens and lawns that would impress even the most seasoned gardeners. We’d love to camp here tonight! The little house is charming, far from the grand manor we imagined.
Strictly no camping in the park, unless you’re willing to pay $37 for the park’s only campsite – with no services. Nope. So, we head to a quiet spot on the outskirts of a village, where we enjoy a peaceful evening.
Thursday, May 19
Today, the weather isn’t looking great. It’s cloudy, and rain is expected by late morning. However, that’s not enough to make us skip our hike for the day! As soon as we’re up, we head back to Gatineau Park and go for breakfast by the shores of Lake Philippe. The day is just beginning, everything is calm and quiet. It’s the perfect time of day to spot some wildlife, and we’re in luck! As we get near the lake, a beautiful deer calmly crosses our path. On the shore, many Canada geese, with their cute and fluffy little goslings, are busy foraging. We love these big wild geese, harbingers of sunny days ahead.
🥾 Wolves Trail – 8.5 km (5 miles) – 250 m elevation gain
No surprise, we barely set off when it starts to rain! Luckily, the trees provide us with some shelter. Between crossing rivers and streams, walking through the quiet woods, and enjoying views of the Outaouais Valley and the Ottawa River, we power through the 8 kilometers of the hike in a steady, light rain.
Far from being the most beautiful natural park in Quebec, Gatineau Park still won us over with its vibrant spring colors. We’re not done seeing the world in green just yet! Now, it’s time to hit the road again. We’re leaving Quebec behind for the neighboring province of Ontario, heading toward the Thousand Islands and Kingston.
