Just a few kilometers from Vancouver lies a paradise for outdoor sports enthusiasts: mountain biking, climbing, bouldering, trail running. For us, it will be all about hiking! Hikes at Joffre Lakes, Whistler, and then Squamish, we are tackling the region’s iconic trails. They will get our legs burning, but the stunning views will make it all worth it!
Monday, August 22, 2022
We were craving warmth, ever since Wells Gray Provincial Park, and now we’re getting plenty of it! The Vancouver area is in the middle of a relentless heatwave, with temperatures climbing over 30°C (86°F) during the day. We are thrilled 😁 After all, we seriously lacked warmth during our road trip through the Far North, the Yukon, and Alaska. We hit the road early, excited for the beautiful and popular hike at Joffre Lakes. But at the parking entrance, we are asked for our day pass. A pass? Oops, didn’t know we needed that. To limit crowds on the trail, hikers now need to book a free day-use pass online. So, no Joffre Lakes hike for us today. But no worries, there’s no shortage of great hikes around here!
We drive to Whistler, Vancouver’s ski resort and one of the largest in Canada. From there, we take a short hike along the river. It’s lovely… and very hot! Luckily, we cool off with a dip in the lake. What do you mean, up to the knees doesn’t count, Rémi says? Pff.
We then go for a walk around Whistler. It’s a major tourist hotspot. In summer, the ski resort transforms into a mountain biker’s paradise: freeride, downhill, trail, everything from beginner trails to pro-level blacks. And yes, it’s packed with people! We stroll through the village streets under a blazing 32°C (90°F) sun. Everything is beautiful, clean, welcoming, practical, well-built and well thought-out, no surprise since Whistler hosted the Winter Olympics in 2010. The legacy lives on!
Finding a place to camp near Whistler isn’t easy, campsites here go for $50 a night. We manage to find a quiet spot at the end of a forest road and enjoy a peaceful evening, briefly interrupted by a hiker who warns us that a bear has been spotted nearby. For the first time ever, as we wash dishes in the dark, we put some music… just in case 😅
Tuesday, August 23
Back to the iconic hike at Joffre Lakes, one of the most popular in the Whistler area. This time, we’ve got our pass and are ready to discover the three lakes!
🥾 Joffre Lakes – 9.7 km (5.6 miles), 400 m elevation gain
The first lake is just a five-minute walk from the parking lot. Its stunning turquoise color reminds us of the lakes in the Canadian Rockies.
From there, it’s a steep climb to the second lake. But eventually, we catch a glimpse of its blue waters through the trees.
Finally, the third lake sits right below the glacier that feeds it.
Later, as we drive through Whistler’s lively town center, we are stuck in traffic on a busy two-lane road. Tim Hortons on the right, upscale homes on the left. We are waiting at a red light when suddenly, between two cars… a brown bear darts across the road! 😲 It sprints between vehicles and disappears into the roadside bushes, right in front of the Tim’s. Whoa! Where did he come from?! We are a bit worried for him, but the light turns green, and we have to move on.
We continue to the town of Squamish. Dominated by a massive monolith, this outdoor playground is a climber’s dream. The local campground is packed, and all the vans and vehicles without a spot are stealth camping nearby despite the “No Overnight Parking” signs. There are so many people! Every car has a makeshift bed, every van is packed with climbing gear, every tent houses a climber. We arrive early enough to grab a spot in the parking lot, where we meet up with Fransisca, Antoine, and Lucas, friends we met in Carcross, Yukon We spend a great evening together!
Wednesday, August 24
Another hot and beautiful day ahead. By morning, our parking lot is bustling with people. Everyone is leaving early to enjoy their passion in the cool. No climbing for us today, just a long, intense hike!
🥾 The Chief Trail – 6.9 km (3.7 miles), 700 m elevation gain
Time to climb the three peaks overlooking the town. Fortunately, the ascent begins in the woods, at the foot of the cliffs, where it’s relatively cool. We reach the first summit via a series of wooden steps and natural stone staircases. It’s a steep climb that gets the heart racing. Soon, the stairs and natural steps are not enough: we have to climb the rock using ladders and chains.
We finally reach the first summit after a tough climb.
The second summit doesn’t look far… as the crow flies! But to reach it, we first have to descend into the forest and then scramble back up a trail that’s more rock climbing than hiking. It’s exhausting, but we love it.
Finally, we make it to the third and highest summit, which towers over the first two.
After a well-earned break… it’s time to head back down! It’s a long, grueling descent through an ancient forest, where massive trees grow on the cliffside. We clamber down for over an hour before finally reaching the stairs and descending all the way back to the parking lot. What a beautiful hike! Brutal, but incredibly rewarding.
After a well-deserved ice cream, we’re in desperate need of a cold shower. We find a free one at a gym in Horseshoe Bay, but the temperature isn’t adjustable. For once, when we want a cold shower, we get a scorching hot one! 😅 Then it’s time to hit the road again. After several weeks of traveling south from Alaska… it’s finally time for us to explore Vancouver!
