After an initial exploration of the impressive Marble Canyon and the ochre river in Kootenay National Park, we venture deeper into the Canadian Rockies to discover even more breathtaking landscapes. Today’s itinerary includes the beautiful Johnston Canyon, turquoise pools, a hanging glacier in the mountains, and exciting wildlife encounters in the national parks.
Wednesday, June 8, 2022
Today is all about hiking. We’re motivated, we’re feeling great, we’re ready to go, and we want to be amazed. So, we take on two popular hikes in two neighboring national parks: Kootenay National Park in British Columbia and Banff National Park in Alberta.
🥾 Johnston Canyon and Ink Pots Trail, Banff National Park – 11.4 km (7 miles), 330 m elevation gain
We start the Johnston Canyon trail early, as it is very popular and we want to avoid the crowds. Along walkways perched on the cliffside, we admire the beauty of Johnston Canyon and its two waterfalls. Stunning!
After 4 km of walking through Johnston Canyon, we leave the crowds behind and take a 6 km loop, much less popular. A long climb through woods and underbrush leads us to the Ink Pots. We have our bear bell and pepper spray, but the only encounter we have is with a not-so-shy fox!
The Ink Pots are water holes with an enchanting blue-green color. The water springs directly from underground sources, creating small sand volcanoes at the bottom of the water.
Driving through the national parks is always a great pleasure. We’re constantly on the lookout for the slightest movement on the roadside and admire an even more breathtaking landscape at every turn. What a spectacle! How could anyone tire of it? The sharp, snowy peaks of the mountains rise before us, sometimes hidden by the clouds, and we feel so small and insignificant!
🥾 Stanley Glacier Trail – 10.9 km (6.2 miles), 604 m elevation gain
We still have the energy and that’s great! Indeed, we set off for an additional 10 km and double the elevation gain! Despite a few passing showers, the weather is fine when we set out to explore the Stanley Glacier in Kootenay National Park. Immediately, the trail begins to climb steeply through a regenerating forest. In fact, in 2003, it was intentionally burned to give rise to a healthier and more nutritious forest wildlife. As we walk through a forest of small fir trees, we enjoy a perfectly open view of the surrounding valley and the glacier, which we can see from the trail.
As we climb higher, we hear a loud thunderclap in the distance. We look up: an avalanche! A massive block of snow/ice has just broken off the cliff! It falls into the void in a shower of white. Impressive! We have the chance to hear several “thunderclaps” during our hike.
As we approach the viewpoint of the glacier, the snow becomes more abundant. We meet a couple who tell us they are the last ones heading down. We are now on our own in this wild nature. One kilometer from the viewpoint, a recent avalanche causes us to lose sight of the trail. The tracks scatter in several directions. Given the time (4:15 PM) and the heavy snow in the area, we decide to turn back. Far from wanting to get lost in these wild and hostile landscapes and spend the night here, we are content with the view that opens up once more, which is already truly breathtaking.
We then head to our spot for the evening. For the second night in a row, we return to the overflow camping at Lake Louise, in Banff National Park. It’s a large area where RVs, vans, and other recreational vehicles can spend the night if the very popular Lake Louise campground is full. The price for the Lake Louise campground? $40! The price here? $11! Full or not, we’re staying here 😅. On the way, one last surprise of the day awaits us: “A bear!” Me, incredulous: “What? No, that’s a trash can!” Spoiler: it was indeed a big black bear, eating dandelions by the side of the road. A perfect way to end the day!
After this long and beautiful day of hiking, first in Johnston Canyon and then up to Stanley Glacier, we head off to rest. The key word of a road trip in the Canadian Rockies is definitely hiking! So, tomorrow, we’ll set off to explore another area of the famous Banff National Park, with a hike to the summit and another exciting encounter with bears!
