Do you also think rain gives landscapes a mysterious vibe and a certain charm? So do we, especially in the mountains and in the woods! Nevertheless, after 10 days of almost non-stop rain, we’re seriously hoping for just one sunny day! In the meantime, we’re making the most of it by exploring Banff National Park off the beaten path, visiting some little-known spots that are definitely worth the detour… even in gloomy weather!
Friday, June 17, 2022
We’ve been in Banff for 10 days now and are struggling to admire the beauty of the landscapes under a blue sky and sunshine. We took advantage of the last clear spells to hike at Lake Louise and watch the sunrise at Moraine Lake. But winter is lingering, and spring is struggling to settle in. Many hiking trails are still closed or inaccessible due to the risk of avalanches.
You’re wondering why we’re still at Banff National Park when the weather is gloomy and cold? We’re still having issues with our Goal Zero portable battery, which normally charges via the Jeep’s alternator… But for the past two weeks, since we were at the beautiful Waterton Lakes National Park, it hasn’t been charging. Yesterday, we sent the faulty module back to Goal Zero and managed to convince them to send the new module without waiting to receive the old one. So, they should be sending it to us soon (at least we hope so).
So, we’re forced to stay near the only ‘big’ town around: Canmore. Fortunately, being stuck in Banff isn’t so bad! There’s no shortage of things to do. After discovering the most iconic spots in Banff National Park, we’ve decided to explore Banff off the beaten path.
After two early wake-ups in a row, this Friday is all about relaxation. We wake up slowly near Canmore. We stop by Tim’s to enjoy the Wi-Fi and have a nice breakfast (it’s raining, so we have an excuse not to cook!). Then, we’re back on the road to Banff National Park. It’s a route we’re starting to get quite familiar with, given all the back and forths we’ve been doing for the past 10 days. The highway that runs through the park is fully fenced, even electrified! This helps keep animals off the road. Metal grids at the entrance and exit of each access ramp block their path, and natural bridges allow them to move between both sides of the valley, which is split by the highway.
Lac Johnson
A 3-kilometer walk takes us around Johnston Lake. The surrounding mountains are reflected in its clear waters. Beautiful!
Two Jake Lake
We have lunch by Two Jake Lake, where, despite the cold and gloomy weather, a few brave souls try their hand at paddleboarding. Always a good distraction xD
We spend the afternoon driving through the beautiful roads of the park. Between ever more stunning landscapes and encounters with wildlife (it’s elk day, we spot four by the roadside!), we can’t get enough of this exceptional park.
We take a hot shower at the nearby campground. Then, we spend our fifth night at the overflow of the Lake Louise campground. The place isn’t very glamorous, but it’s much cheaper than a regular campsite (especially when we forget to pay 🙃). We spend another rainy evening with our new Swiss friends, whom we met a few days earlier on the road, and their awesome 4×4 van! They also plan to drive down to Ushuaia!
Saturday, June 18
Today, a nice surprise awaits us when we wake up: the sun!! It’s been six days since we last saw it. I don’t think anyone has ever shown such enthusiasm and happiness for a ray of sunshine, no matter how shy it might be 😁 We try to head to Moraine Lake because we’d love to see its beautiful color under the bright sun. However, it’s already 10 a.m., and the rangers have closed the road because the parking lot is full. Fail.
Morant’s Curve
Another curiosity of Banff National Park off the beaten path is Morant’s Curve, the famous bend in the railway that crosses the park. We spend 30 minutes waiting for the train, then 10 minutes watching it pass! Its dozens and dozens of carriages roll by before our eyes (I count 169!!), pulled and pushed by three locomotives. Now that’s a train! What a great attraction!
🥾 Sentier Castle Lookout – 7 kms, 800 m D+
It’s time to take advantage of this clear sky to climb the Castle Mountains, which have been catching our eye since we arrived in the park. These past few days, we’ve mostly seen them hidden in the clouds. Today, it’s time to enjoy them!
After a steep but steady climb, we reach the viewpoint overlooking the Bow Valley.
The late afternoon is spent enjoying a snack in the sun by the river, followed by a stop at the service center to use their Wi-Fi. We then decide to temporarily leave Banff National Park to head to the neighboring park: Yoho National Park, located in British Columbia!
