Today is a big day: after more than two weeks exploring Banff National Park and Yoho National Park, it’s time for us to leave this part of the Canadian Rockies. Banff National Park stretches many more kilometers north, all the way to Jasper National Park. Ahead of us lies 250 km of road, (150 miles) and not just any road: the Icefields Parkway, famed as one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Ready to be amazed? 😜 Let us introduce you to the must-see attractions along the Icefields Parkway!
Saturday, June 25, 2022
It’s seven o’clock, and we’re already on the road under the bluest sky we’ve seen so far. The downside of this gorgeous weather? It’s 1°C (34°F)!
Herbert Lake
We make our first stop at Herbert Lake, just 10 minutes into the drive. The reflection of the trees and mountains on the lake is simply… perfect. But the magic only happens early in the morning!
Bow Lake
We then stop at Bow Lake, where we have breakfast. The lake is surrounded by impressive mountains and glaciers: Bow Glacier and Crowfoot Glacier.
Peyto Lake
Next stop: the incredible Peyto Lake. It’s without a doubt one of the most famous lakes in the Canadian Rockies and a must-see stop along the Icefields Parkway. Its turquoise blue water shining in the sun is absolutely stunning. Anecdote: while walking toward Bow Summit, we came across a skier. Yep, an alpine skier. When we told him there was no more snow below, just mud, he looked pretty disappointed. “Ah, summer,” he sighed! 😅
Mistaya Canyon
Our last stop of the day is at Mistaya Canyon, very popular but also incredibly impressive.
Abraham Lake
The Icefields Parkway runs through Banff and Jasper National Parks. Therefore, camping along it is strictly prohibited! So, where to sleep along the Icefields Parkway? Our plan for the night is to head to Abraham Lake. It’s located just a few kilometers from Banff National Park and is known for its wild camping spots. We arrive around 3 p.m. and find many weekenders already settled in all the best spots in the area. We drive around a bit, do some scouting, a little trail, a few U-turns before finding THE spot. A bit elevated, facing the lake, with a firepit, in full sunlight, far from the weekend crowds. The perfect spot for a perfect evening.
When there’s a campfire, it means potatoes roasted in the embers accompanied by a pepper and chorizo omelet. And for dessert: marshmallows! This time, we were well prepared 😉 In these moments, life on the road feels like a fairy tale, and we feel sooooo good. We’re definitely better off here than on our couch in front of the TV! 😁
Sunday, June 27
We wake up early under a cloudless sky and beautiful sunshine. Two consecutive days of good weather? Wow! We had planned to hit the road early, but with such great weather and such a beautiful landscape, we linger a bit. It’s not until 9 a.m. that we finally set off. The second part of the Icefields Parkway awaits us!
Saskatchewan Glacier
After all that driving, it’s time to stretch our legs a bit!
🥾 Parker Ridge Trail – 5.4 km (3 miles), 250 m elevation gain
What a hike! Setting out for this short 5 km trek, we didn’t expect to come across such a view. After a fairly steep climb through several centimeters of soft snow, we reach the top of the mountain. In front of us, far in the distance, lies the Saskatchewan Glacier. Impressive. The landscape is simply breathtaking.
We have a picnic at the border between the two national parks. We leave Banff and enter Jasper.
Consternation at Athabasca Glacier
A different atmosphere at the Athabasca Glacier, a few kilometers further. Here, it’s crowded, and the reason is simple: no need to walk to admire this glacier. Quite the opposite, it’s possible to board a bus that takes you… onto the glacier! Yes, onto the glacier. Buses actually drive on the glacier. We are surprised, shocked, dismayed. The worst part of the story? Commemorative signs along the path leading to the foot of the glacier show its retreat year after year. It’s said to retreat by 5 meters annually, but when you see the distance between the 1992 sign and today, we’re far from the 150 meters…
The dichotomy of Jasper National Park, and more generally of Parks Canada, whose values center around the protection of wildlife and the environment, is displayed prominently on the explanatory signs along the path: to fight climate change and the retreat of the glacier, we are advised to unplug electrical devices at night and recycle our waste! We are dismayed. Before blaming people for their own responsibility in climate issues, wouldn’t it be more logical to start by stopping the operation of highly polluting buses driving on the glacier tongue itself? We can’t help but think that the park’s economic interests, which it finds in mass tourism, take precedence over the protection of the environment and the glacier. It’s really a shame…
Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint
We continue our journey towards the town of Jasper, making multiple photo stops and admiring the scenery. The Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint lives up to its name: we see glaciers and plenty of mountain goats!
Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls
We then stop at two waterfalls along the Icefields Parkway: Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls.
The Icefields Parkway ends in the small town of Jasper, where we arrive in the late afternoon. Jasper, in a way, is similar to Banff: it’s a small, very touristy town filled with souvenir shops and restaurants. We are starving and give in: for the first time on our trip, we eat at a restaurant, an all-you-can-eat Indian buffet, which we make sure to get our money’s worth (maybe even a little too much 🤢). A real treat that is a pleasant change from pasta and rice! We then spend the night at the local campsite because in Jasper, they don’t mess around: wild camping is strictly forbidden, and the closest free spot is 50 kilometers outside the park!
Tomorrow, we plan to explore the iconic spots of Jasper National Park, one of the most famous parks in Canada.
