Hard to follow up after the stunning Yellowstone National Park! But just a few kilometers further south, Grand Teton National Park managed to wow us with its jagged peaks and glorious autumn colors. Whether under clear skies, stormy clouds, or at sunrise, our eyes were constantly filled with awe.
Wednesday, September 21, 2022
After four freezing nights sleeping in the car at Yellowstone National Park, we treat ourselves to a bit of comfort. We spend the night just a few kilometers south of the park exit, at a free campsite. The rooftop tent is set up but, most importantly, we pull out the heater! We are done freezing! It ran all night, keeping the temperature inside around 15°C. Waking up to warm, dry air was absolute bliss! At Yellowstone, we often woke up to frost, without any heating, it was brutal 🥶
We take it easy in the morning and don’t leave the campsite until 1 PM. Destination: Grand Teton National Park, just a short drive south of Yellowstone.
After a quick stop at the visitor center, we set out on a short 5 km (3.1 mi) hike through meadows and forest. Nature here has put on its full autumn outfit in shades of yellow and orange, and it is gorgeous! We stay alert for any signs of wildlife, as bears are especially active this time of year. We don’t spot any, but we hike with the sound of the deer’s rut, powerful and distant cries that echo above the trees and reach us. It is beautiful and moving.
The trail takes us to Grand Viewpoint Point, where we get our first look at the Teton Range, jagged peaks stretching toward the sky. The tallest of them, Grand Teton, gave the park its name and raises an altitude of 4,199 meters (13780 ft.). Absolutely stunning!
Threatening skies and distant flashes of lightning force us to quickly find a place to spend the night. Luckily, the area around Grand Teton is a camper’s paradise. Just outside the park boundaries, the surrounding mountains are full of “dispersed campgrounds,” free camping spots out in the wild. We find a site facing Grand Teton. The storm rumbles, and the clouds approach, so we quickly make dinner and dive into the Jeep to eat. Just in time! Thunder cracks, the wind blows, and rain falls hard. It is only 5 PM! We spend the evening huddled inside the Jeep, riding out the storm.
Thursday, September 22
We wake to a wet world and a shy bit of sun. The jagged Grand Teton peaks pierce the sky as we eat breakfast with a splendid view, deer’s rut still echoing around us. So peaceful and beautiful!
The weather isn’t great today, so we decide to leave nature behind for the day and head to Jackson, a nearby cowboy atmosphere town in Wyoming. Very cute and full of character.
After an afternoon at the library, we return to Grand Teton determined to find an even better campsite than the night before! We climb Shadow Mountain, which directly faces the Tetons. But every spot is taken! We are forced to go higher and higher. The rain has made the road muddy and huge ruts have been carved, so we figure the RVs wouldn’t go up this far. Wrong! Even way up the mountain, we still find big campers and vans, they fear nothing! Finally, we get lucky near the top and grab one of the last available spots. It is late, so we rush to cook before it get too dark. We’ll enjoy the view tomorrow.
Friday, September 23 😢✨
It is a beautiful day, but a very sad one for my family. Our beloved Chouchou, our fluffy boy Elliott, our Newfoundland dog, passed away at the age of 13. He leaves behind a huge emptiness. We’re all deeply saddened.
Still, the journey continues. We descend from the mountain and spend the day exploring the park. Wildlife, and less wild animals, are out in force: mule deer, horses, pronghorns.
We have breakfast in the sun, then set off on a short 5 km (3.1 mi) hike to Moose Pond. The name don’t disappoint: we spot a beautiful moose! We hadn’t seen one since Anchorage, in Alaska, over a month ago!
Grand Teton also has some fun trails for 4x4s, perfect for us and Jeepy! Jeepy speeds along the muddy trail that winds through vast meadows. Rémi is at the wheel, and he’s having a blast in the puddles 😎
That evening, we try our luck again, hoping for a stunning view of the Tetons at sunrise. But it isn’t easy. It’s the weekend and campsites are packed! Some people have even left tents or RVs just to hold spots, they are not even there. Pff. Just like the night before, we climb higher and higher. Eventually, we score find one of the last free spots at the top of Shadow Mountain. No Teton view this time, but the scenery is still beautiful 😁
Saturday, September 24
We finally make it. A breathtaking sunrise over Grand Teton! A magical show of nature, which we watch with awe and emotion, cozy inside the Jeep.
After a hearty breakfast with a mountain view, it is time to leave Grand Teton National Park. We’ll return in two years, on our way back from our Pan-American road trip to Ushuaia, for more hiking adventures! But for now, we pass through Jackson for a few hours at the library, some grocery shopping, a car wash for Jeepy, and a shower for us… or not, it is closed! After a bit of driving, we end the day at a remote camping spot in a dry lakebed.
The days ahead will be all about rest and slow travel! We’ve got 6 days to cover the 450 km to Salt Lake City. Sure, that’s the direct route, but we plan to skip the highway as much as possible and cut across to discover the wild landscapes of Wyoming and Utah!
